Domzs

That's awesome ! I'll take one , i meant three .

So you have fuel press. and spark . Have you tested for inj. pulse ? Check for corrosion on injectors and connectors , common problem .

Looks good . I was thinking about that body kit for my Z . Bought a set of ZG flares , haven't installed them . Still debating which way to go .

Check Ebay . Got all my elbows cheap and good quality too .

I can youi just give power and ground to your ECM ( where they're supposed to be ) and see if you get the result that you are looking for , at least the green light .

Looks good . But i'd do something about your cold ( hot ) air induction , route it in front of the radiator . You don't want hot air going into your intake .

If that stuff look anything like broken needle bearings then you need to check your rockers . Known problem .

I like it . Where did you get it , MSA ?

Man , you have way too much time on your hands . Get back to your rearend . LOL

Check for spark at the coil wire to see if it can jump 1/2" . If it does then move on to the plug wire to see if it does the same . Double check your plug wire routing ( firing order ) .

Nice Z , i like the color .

Check your charging sys and battery condition . Check your ground cable to sure you bolt it back .

What have you done since you got the car ? I see new plug wires .

As stated in the above . And did you flush out your fuel system , it sat for over a year .

I feel your pain . LOL

No spacers , 0 offset . You will need to rolled the rear . No rubbing in the front . But i haven't lowered the car yet . You don't have to run 25" tires either . I'm running 25" because my exh. sys. sits low due to LS1 auto conversion . I'm not too crazy about spacers or adapters either .

Was it running before replacement ?

When you have oil press. problem on the LS motor , more often the pick tube o-ring is the cause ( sucking air ) . All LS pans are like that , not very smooth . Poor casting . What is that junk on the last photo , metal or ?

I'd rec. you to finished mounting and connecting everything together first before you go any further . I've seen , too often , that when a tech try to start the motor when the job is not completely done . And when it doesn't start , usually due incomplete connections or ground wires not mounted

I agree , 23" is a little small . Here's 25" on 16x8.25

Did it start after you jumped the fuel pump relay , getting spark or inj. pulse ?

Just to make sure if you have inj. pulse or not . Unplug all your inj. connectors then plug a noid light or a LOW AMP. test light to a inj. connector . Crank the motor to see if the light flashes . With the connector unplugged , one wire should have bat. voltage ( key in on and start pos. ) and the other one should ground ( neg. ) when commands by the ECM . If you back probed the connector while it still connected to the inj. , with key in on pos. it will show bat. voltage on both wires until you crank the motor then one will go to neg. . Works like the ign. coil .