Domzs

First thing first , get the motor to crank . Make sure battery and cables are good . If you have power to starter signal wire , at the starter , during crank position then replace starter . Try to tap the starter while cranking to see if it cranks , if it does replace starter .

So now you have no crank and no start ?

Was your MAF sensor on the intake or discharge side of the turbo ?

Awesome videos . Great job . Congrats .

97 -98 are the same and 99 - 02 are the same , i think . The book will explain a lot of your questions . What year is your Z ?

Get on Ebay and type in LS1 books . $25 , i think . Jefferson Bryant is the author . " How to swap GM LS-series into almost anything " .

There's a thread somewhere on here , showing that you can cut and install flares without do a whole lot of damage to the paint . Of course , it's better to it before a fresh paint job .

That's why " blow through setup " is better , keeping the MAF sensor farther away from the turbo and the throttle body . It's better to have it after the intercooler for better reading on air temp. . If you have a thin cheap plastic MAF sensor housing and running high boost then this method is not recommended .

What about the Hyundai Genesis Coupe ?

Flickering or flashing " CEL " unsually indicates that you have a misfired condition .

Yes . It's one of the options . Kinda depends on who/where you are getting the harness from .

Have any pictures of your setup ?

As for wiring harness , you can go with aftermarket standalone but it's kinda pricey . The cheapest i've found is $500 . If you get a donor and reusing factory harness then you need to get " How to swap GM LS-series engine " book . There's a section that has detail on how to rework OE harness . And they are threads online that has detail on how-to . If you have the money then standalone will save you the headache . As for PCM , i got my from Ebay for $125 with all unnecessary stuff deleted . You have to get anti-theft deleted . I got all emissions and codes related to them deleted .

First , get a donor car and don't scrap or sell anything off the donor until you are done with your Z .

IMO , V8 Z is not about mpg but the enjoyment that you get from driving it . And it's more fun when you can blow the door off of the newer sport cars .

Have you done everything as NewZed suggested in your previous thread ? Do you have any pic of your engine compartment or progress ? I know that you just the engine to start but with fuel injection you need to put everything together first before you start diag. it .

Damn ! Very nice . Yeah , i would keep it all original . Great find .

Any pictures ? I would work with what you have or can get cheap . You can always upgrade it later . Of course 350 is much better than 305 , bigger is better . But you want to get it running and driving as soon as you can . You don't want to have a 5 yrs project . Standard is fun to drive but hard on stock half shafts and rearend .

NGK plugs and wires should the only option you need . IMO .

I haven't seen it but it could happen . Normally , sugar will eat fuel hoses and clog injectors . Had a few came to shop , had to replace hoses and injectors .

It could be the ignition . Can you get O2 reading with your setup ?

The engine compartment looks pretty clean . Any pic of the interior ? Need more pics . I love the 70s cars .

4L80E can handle more torque than your typical 4L60(E) . It all depends on your motor output and your car weight . It's bigger and heavy than other transmissions .

Most alternators will not charge when bad . Overcharged condition is rare . Bad voltage regulator is most likely the caused . It's not a good idea to have an overcharged condition , I have seen fried electrical system due to overcharging ( exploding headlight bulbs ) .

It could be a weak ignition sytem like a weak coil and lean condition also causes misfired . Most likely , you have a lean misfired condtion .