Domzs

Can't tell what's inside the circled area .

You have to check the fact. spec. Sorry i can't get any info on RBs at my shop .

I'm glad you found and fixed your problem . I would check your TPS at idle to see if it's within spec. and throttle stop to make sure the throttle blade it's not open too wide .

Looking good . Keeping the rear mount antenna ? Going to shave mine .

The wire for CEL from ECM should be ground when key on . Without the ability to scan the ECM for trouble code(s) makes diag. more difficult .

I converted mine to MAXI fuse . Just get a fuse box and convert it .

Yes . Well , worked for on mine . My 83 turbo with 5 spd. ECM went bad and i replaced one from an 82 ( free ) turbo with auto . It worked for years without any problem .

To your first question , you can use a connector ( splice ) to join 2 heater hoses together ( bypassing the heater core ) . Where did you check for bat. voltage ? Need to check at the bat. and the alternator . Needs to be around 13-14.5 v. .

Congrats ! Nice job .

It could be your oil pick up tube o-ring not sealing , common problem with the LS motors .

Nissan Consult scanner is very expensive ( 5k plus ) . If you have an OBD 2 port , you can use a generic scanner . You need to see if the ECM has any trouble code(s) .

It should have some kind of diag. port ( if you wired it ) . OBD 2 port if it's a 96 and newer . R33 will have a OBD 2 and/or Nissan Consult connector

Answer to the first question is yes , needs to be tight . Not quite understand the second part of your question , any pic ?

You either have to live with it or you can install the 280ZX fuel rail/injector cooling fan . Are you running header ?

Backfired will happen when you have the throttle open too wide while spraying . Have someone spray while you crank ( with slightly open throttle or none at all ) . What year is your motor ? Should be able to get some sort of DTC from the ECM .

Not sure what color is for a 76 , my 78 has yellow wire for temp. sender . And your neighbor is correct about testing the gauge ( quick test ) . Gauge will sweep one way when unplugged and the other way when grounded ( single wire sender ) .

Bearings are made of brass and some kind of coating , i think . What you found could be a lot of things , timing chain and sprockets , rings , cylinder walls anything that's made out of metal/iron . Like i said , i see it all the times . Unless you see big flakes or chunks , i wouldn't worry about it . Is the motor knocking or making strange noises ?

Only metal will stick to magnet . Brass or aluminum won't . DTC stands for diag. trouble code .

Looking good . This is why i love the LS motors , one cam . LOL .

So the noid light flashes as you turning the CAS ? Have you tried to run it with carb spray ? You have spark but is it strong enough , i'd try carb spray first .

You can use any generic scanner to check for DTC or your fuel trim . If long term in the -25% range then it's running rich .

If you smell fuel in your oil then the car is running rich , any DTC ? Is this the first time you see this ? Normally , you will see some when doing oil change ( with mag. drain plug ) . Large chunks is when you need to worry . LOL . LS motors have problem with oil pick up tube o-rings not sealing ( suck air ) .

You can use carb spray or starting fluid ( spray into the throttle body ) . If it runs then you have fuel issue . Use press gauge and T it into press. ( feed line ) side of fuel line to see if you have any press. . But from your description , i would check to see if you are getting injector pulse , using a noid light ( or homemade test light - low amp. bulb ) . Plug it to the injector connector to see if it flashes during crank . At connector , one wire should have bat. voltage when key on/start and the other is signal from ECM .

Here's the link , XenonS30.com . Download it .

I'm glad that you got the Z running , good job . Check wiring under steering column to make sure it hasn't been mod. , like add on alarm . Follow FSM for testing .