naviathan

I'm up! Well sort of. I had my timing way too low. I set my trigger offset to 82 and I was able to get it start and stay running long enough to get a datalog. I had to keep feathering the gas pedal to get it going and keep it going. I think it's now a fuel issue, but I'm not sure. Here's a couple datalogs. Help me out! datalog200707211732.zip datalog200707211746.zip

Here's my datalog. With the MS triggering from the VR sensor, what should my Trigger Offset (deg) be? datalog200707211438.zip

Funny you should mention that. It's always the simplest things. I went out and cleaned number 1 with a torch and now it's getting spark. My car hates me. Time to clean the rest of them. It still doesn't want to start.

I now have spark on every cylinder except #1 again. I think I'm just going to go buy new plugs, wires cap and rotor now. Even though these aren't that old it's still not cranking. Someone beat me over the head with a bat please. It might be more productive.

Ok I figured it out and I know have an RPM signal, but I'm not getting any spark at all. Everything is hooked up properly, I'm getting fuel (I can smell it) but the timing light I've got hooked up to show spark isn't flashing. When it's on the stim the IGN LED flashes so I assume that means it's out putting something. Any ideas?

I'm baffled. I went through my harness completely and I can't find any shorts to ground or anything. When it's on the stim everything acts perfectly normal. When it's in the car, I turn the key, the pump kicks on for 4 seconds, after 2 seconds the injector LED comes on full and doesn't turn off at all. No RPM signal, nothing. When I reload the firmware before loading any settings though it doesn't do that. I keep thinking this is a software issue.

Ok this is so weird. I was getting RPM signal and then my battery died completely. Now the battery has charged back up and I'm not getting any RPM and the injector LED comes on full tilt. When it's on the stim however it doesn't??? Just flashes like normal. I'm confused.

Ok, I'm on the locked VR distributor. I had to switch my signal wires, the green wire is the positive and the red is the negative incase anyone is wondering. My battery is still too dead to crank though. It's so low MS restarts. I think it's time to get another. MORE TO COME!!!

Here we go. I have one distributor locked out already so I think I'm going to give it a run.

According to the book the non-turbo model should be 8+/-2 degrees BTDC with vacuum disconnected and the turbo should be 20+/-3 degrees BTDC. So I guess I should be safe to go with 8 degrees to start with.

That's my problem. I set my board up to trigger from the VR sensor and I'm trying to trigger from the module. I'm all screwed up. I have to switch to my locked dist and let MS control the ignition.

You got it. The noise is causing huge jumps in idle for the first few cranks.

I think my problems are the way the board is setup. I'm talking to Matt through email about it now. I'm trying to trigger off the module when I've set my board up to trigger from the VR sensor and fire the coil directly. Looks like I'll be going full on fire from the start. Can someone explain to me why everyone seems to be running 25+ degrees of timing? The book calls for 8 degrees BTDC on a stock engine. Is there some sort of difference between the stock system and MS running timing?

rags - All of my grounds are new wires. I completely pulled my stock EFI harness and rewired everything from the ground (no pun intended) up. All my connections are soldered so I should have clean connection everywhere.

I'll have to keep my torch on hand, thanks for the tip Tony D.

Timing is stock and spark is only missing on number 1. I'll fix the issue with number 1 when i get home. I imagine the plug wire got pinched and shorted or something. Thanks for the MSQ, I'll give it shot when I get home.

I think I'm going to pull my IAC and check for movement. When cranking it should retract correct?

It'll have to wait until I get home from work. I couldn't take anymore time off. Well probably could have, but I'd rather not use up all of my leave for this one project.

Ok checked it over real quick this morning. I'm getting no spark on #1, but spark on everything else. I'll try swapping the spark plug wire tonight and see if it changes. The injector pulse LED on the box definitely isn't flashing. Almost like it's opening the injectors and keeping them open while it's cranking. This is going to give me a headache already.

No there is no cold start valve or bosch cold air bypass valve for fast idle. The stepper motor should take care of that.

Oh yes I have a stim board and it does flash on the stim. What would change in the car?

Oh sorry, I'm using the 240SX TPS and it is calibrated. My required fuel is set at 12 as that seems to be the recommended starting point. if I do the calculations it comes up with something like 16. It's definitely flooding out though. I'll give it a shot tomorrow, thanks very much!

Ok, I'm not getting anything, but I think that might be due to the low battery. I have the stock ignition still in place. All I pulled out was the EFI harness. It was trying to start when I would activate the flood clear so I know it's getting spark. The only thing ignition wise I don't have connected is pin 36 because I'm not using the spark control yet. I have pin 24 connected to the green wire on the ignition module to pull RPM (NA ignition module green runs to the negative coil post). D14 looked constant (couldn't discern a flash) while it was cranking and WUE was on as well. Hope this helps some.

Sensors - GM IAC, GM Coolant, GM IAT, stock Narrow band O2, MAP sensor in the MS-II. I'll make sure I have spark real quick.

Sweet cygnusx1! It's 2.862, please tell me you can take a look at it.