naviathan

The engine is the same engine I've been running for the last 2 years. The head is an N42 I pulled from a parts car and had it hot tanked, shaved, valves lapped, new stem seals, springs, rockers, lash pads, the works. Everything is good. I think it's just one of the cams from the bad batch of CWC billets they had a couple years ago.

Oh no, lots of oil movement in there. I made sure of that. I pulled the oil cap and checked while it was running even.

I used assembly lube on everything and I put a brand new turbo oil pump on, primed it of course. I did everything by the book. I set it cold and MSA doesn't recommend setting these cams hot, they even go as far as to mark out the hot settings on the cam card. There was plenty of oil in there, I made sure of it when I was turning it over. I would have thought maybe it was something I did wrong if it wasn't for the fact that it's only 5 out of 12 lobes that wiped out. The others look fine. Had it been oil starvation I would have expected all of them to show similar patterns. I double checked all my clearances before ever even thinking about putting the valve cover back on. Not to mention there are documented problems with the CWC billets that most fo the cam companies were using and this I think is one of the bad ones.

MSA I paid I think around $350 for my kit, but that was a while ago, so I'm not exactly sure.

Oh I know the cam will have to be replaced. I'm already talking to MSA to find out what they will do. It was a full kit, rockers, springs, lash pads, everything. This really put a stop to my MS-II project.

I bought an MSA Stage II cam back in early 05'. I never got around to putting it in an engine until a couple weeks ago when i tore down my DD to replace the headgasket and do an MS-II install. Well after about 1.5-2 hours of tuning and checking settings the valve train started making a horrendous clatter. I figured that I might need to re adjust the valves so i pulled the valve cover to find this: I called MSA and they said the warranty department would have to get back to me, probably tomorrow. I know they'll do what they can, but this raises another question, all that metal is in my engine now, what can I do to ensure I don't wear something else out as a result of this?

The cam might not be the problem, it could just be the valve adjustment, however you might want to pull the valve cover and check to make sure yours doesn't look like mine.

Here's my Schnider stage II cam after about 1.5-2 hours of running:

Nope sorry, nothing good, all bad. If this gets any worse I throwing a 350 sbc in it. Please see below Thoughts? No wonder it was clattering so bad...

Hmmm, those numbers seem to have generated a much more resonable table. I'll give it a shot tonight.

MS triggers the pump relay by grounding it. Make sure you have hot on one side of the relay coil and the MS FP wire on the other. I added a relay because I wanted to do all my wiring under the hood and the FP trigger from the main harness needed a hot to trigger. I simply trigger one relay with MS that supplies the 12V hot needed to trigger the factory relay under the dash.

? Wow, I didn't realize they made cars specifically for midgets.

Hmm, I don't think terrorism would have been a good response unless you really enjoy pain and torture. The commercial sounds awesome though. I think it's about time Nissan finally went back to it's roots and showed people where the real Nissan Sports Car Craze started. I'm so tired of being asked what year my Porsche is or how nice my RX-7 is or the ever famous, hey nice car, what is it?

Anyone near Maysville/Swansboro/Jacksonville/Cape Carteret/Stella interested in assisting with a MegaSquirt tune? Hell, at this point anyone nearby interested in just hanging out, drinking a few beers and talking Z cars? I'm so tired of being the only local really into Z cars and having to come to the forums for any decent enthusiasts to talk to. There's a few Zs around here, but the owners aren't what I'd call enthusiasts, they're more posers driving their cars into the ground because they're neat looking and kinda quick. I have a decent garage and I live in the country where it's nice and quiet.

Yeah, reload the firmware. Quick and easy fix to most problems. Especially when it's corrupted firmware.

Looks decent so far. Stitch it in, don't try to run a bead or you'll warp it.

It ends up really rich. Thanks for the help cygnus.

I thought about that. So why is it that the Table Generator doesn't work for anything? Every time I've tried to use it comes up with these outlandish numbers for everything. Anyhow, could you export your VE table for me and I'll make some adjustments to fit my application and then I can just import it from there?

talk to zbigtim, he seems to have his EDIS MS-II running pretty good.

Hmmm...Not sure there. Have you checked the threads from some others that are also running EDIS? I've seen at least two, but I really don't know about the dwell thing.

Ahhhh, now I understand. Thanks for clearing that up, I though 300kpa was really really high. I'll redo that tonight. Thanks again. Still need a worth while VE table though...

Wow..Ok nevermind on the temps then. Definitely work the dwell issue, however the voltage thing, I just checked my logs and it seems I'm getting similar spikes so it might be normal. Couldn't hurt to check anyway.

You need a voltage regulator. You have voltage spikes into the 21+V range. The other thing I see is your dwell. You have it too low and you're probably getting really weak sparks. The highest dwell I see in the log is 1.1 and most people set a max of 3.1, bump that up and see what happens. Also you never get completely warmed up from what I can see the highest temp in the log is 144*. That's all I can see right now. Try the dwell change and see what that does for you.

Forgot the file?

cygnus, your accel settings are setup for boost. I copied everything from your attachment except I went for 100kpa, 60kpa, 40kpa, 20kpa and 1.5, 1.0, .7, .5 respectively. I was figuring that was more N/A friendly.