naviathan

Well, guess it'll wait till tomorrow. It still seems to be flooding out. The temps are reading correct now, but the RPMs jump horribly on the first few rotations then they settle back down to cranking RPMs. I think that's where it's getting flooded at because it shows some massive amount of RPMs the drops back down. If someone could please look at my .msq I would really appreciate it. It's for the 2.862 firmware if that's needed info.

Sensors are good. All brand new except for the IAC stepper motor. I think this is more a firmware corruption problem so I'm going to see what it does with a semi charged battery.

Ok, I reloaded my firmware because I noticed that the coolant temp was reading 40* and it's been 95*+ here all day so I doubt that. Unfortunately, I can't try the settings until my battery charges up some. This blows; I'm on day 8 of the head gasket-MS-II install and I still don't even have it running. I've gone by everything I've read on the forums here and I'm racking my brain hard core. Moby's posts have been a great help, but if I can't figure out this I'm going to go nuts! I can't keep riding the Harley to work. The rain is kind of annoying. Anyhow, if anyone is willing to look at my MSQ I'm uploading it. Someone please help me out here! megasquirt_my_last2.zip

Exactly as the title says. If I hold the accelerator down to kick it into flood clear it acts like it's going to start, otherwise it just floods. MS-II running fuel only stock everything except cam and header. Help!

Well, after a few bumps in the road the engine is back together. I'll have lots of pics to come. Still not real sure on my MSQ but the wiring is coming along nicely. I have to make a quick trip to the junk yard tomorrow for an IAC, but I have everything else I need I think. Funny I noticed on the injector connectors from DIY the red wire is actually on the ground side of the injector. Has anyone else noticed this? Anyhow, not a big deal, just glad I was looking for which side was hot. I have my MSA stage II cam in, PaceSetter header, which BTW, they chose a screwed up place to put the O2 bung. I don't have rack and pinion and the O2 hits the steering box. No biggie, it barely squeezed in there. I'll know tomorrow how things are going to run.

If things can go wrong they will. Tried getting the cam sprocket back on and the timing chain wouldn't pull up enough. Pulled the oil pump to have a look see at it and the tensioner came out. So on with pulling the front cover. What a pain without being able to move the engine for fear of impacting a valve. Got the cover off and it had bent the spring in the tensioner. Thankfully with all the spare engines around I had several to choose from. So that fiasco set me back almost a full day. I finally have my head on with the new cam and everything is coming together. Next is just the manifolds and wiring up MS. Tomorrow will be another long day I'm afraid.

That's what I thought. I have a cople dropping resistors so that's not a problem. Thanks for the ideas.

I've seen that before, but wouldn't you burn up your injectors by putting a full 12V through them and holding them open?

Nevermind, I followed the wiring diagram in the book (Hayne's believe it or not) and traced it down. There's also an ignition accessories feed on the same plug. Kinda nice to know incase I want to wire in another relay later for lighting or something else.

Ok, I always thought my fuel pump relay was in the black box on the passengers side front of the engine compartment. According to the 82 manual it's on the right side of the dash. Either way when I pulled out the harness I didn't see any connections to the fuel pump relay, just one to the EFI relay. Where is this thing and how did the factory ECU connect to it?

Happy birthday Cygnus! Not going to ask your age, but be confident that it's old enough...lol

RadioShack does too have them. I bought an assortment pack of 100 resistors and there's 6 1k 1/4 watt resistors in the pack.

Yeah that's what I thought until I stuck my finger in it and it's nasty gooey almost grease like oil on top of that cylinder. The wife wiped it off with a shop rag and I was surprised to find a nice clean piston under all that.

Sweet, thanks so much Mario. The help is greatly appreciated.

They all check out at 3.0 Ohm on the dot. Guess I'll go with these. Might want to check the turbo car and make sure they have the right part number on their injectors. Could be why the guy that had it before never got it to run right.

Got this clip from the zcar.com archives: Guess that helps. Mine are the D1560BA so I guess they're N/A injectors, but I haven't been able to find any true flow test or anytihng on them.

Ok, well I have a part number on these injectors, but it doesn't match any of the ones in the list from the site cozy posted. Guess I'll have to do some more research to find out what the specs on these are. Thanks guys. Keep it coming if anyone else knows anything.

In taking another look at my head and my block it looks like the head gasket let loose on the number 1 cylinder in an oil jacket. The piston is nasty with oil. Might be what was pushing oil into the coolant. Surprised I didn't see and smoke. Might be time to punch out the cat.

I have both the flyback circuits and the high current driver in my board. Although the high current driver I thought was for ignition, not fuel. In the tuning manual it says for low impedance injectors just to change the PWM % from 75 to 30. Seems pretty cut and dry to me.

I have several fuel injectors in my garage from several different Z's. Most of them are black bodies while I have a few green and one or two tan. Now I can't find the thread but I remember someone referencing black as a turbo injector. Which would make sense, I have a turbo car in the yard that has all black injectors. I can't find any flow info on them so can someone please put my mind at ease and tell me whether these are or are not turbo injectors so I know what to set my injector characteristics at for MS.

Wow, the EFI harness is extremely easy to pull out. It took all of 15 minutes to completely remove the harness and have it on the ground. One question though, my 81 looks like it had dropping resistors in place. Will I need these when I put MS in?

cygnus, it's good, there's nothing coming off that sponge. I use these blocks for all kinds of projects and the only time I've had one come apart was trying to sand rust spots down and I caught it on a sharp edge. Thanks for the concern though.

I'm using a different head that's already at the machine shop, but I think this one might be warped. I couldn't find any obvious marks around the cylinders to indicate a leak, but from the looks of the exhaust valves and the tops of the cylinders I'd say there was definitely coolant leaking in. The liners in the exhaust ports are also white as though it was running lean, but I know it wasn't.

I just received my 240SX TPS. Had to order one from Advance, but it was cheap, only $25. I assume that the top connector can be ignored and the Red is power, black ground and white TPS correct?

Randy, Thanks for that bit of info on using an old 280Z TPS for a back plate, I was just tossing the idea of welding longer tabs on, but though it a bad idea as it might damage the potentiometer. I like your route better.