naviathan

No, palm uses a different processor therefore different instruction sets than the megalog which is intended for x86 systems.

Not sure on the timing, sounds alright though. For the palm, make sure to get a good serial to USB. I use a Belkin that I picked up at Circuit City for $20. No problems with it at all. As for your WB, the sensor could be bad. I've done a bit of reading and it seems they're quite sensitive and if your EGTs get too high it can burn them up. Check your heater connections and also let it run for a bit and see if it starts to correct any. Otherwise you'll probably need a new sensor.

They use the Xe7 in Jeeps. I believe they're pre sealed and ready to go in. One of these days I'll have a set. The wife would probably kill me, but at this point, I want better lighting. Next trip to Iraq I'm picking up a pair.

Junkyards... Occassionally you'll find them on eBay with the oil shaft included because some people actually know it's needed.

Piggy back might not work on the Z because of the types of sensors. For the most part they're not like a standard sensor. The TPS is a switch not a potentiometer like most others. The value range for the temp sensors is different. The ignition system is independant of the ECU, things like that. It would be easier and much more beneficial to go with the MS-II full install. I build MS-II ECUs for $380+shipping if you're interested.

I don't know anything about e-manage blue, but with the MS-II you could ditch the whole factory EFI (Harness and all since it's pretty old) and rewire using either a DIYAutoTune prewired harness (recommended) or a home made harness. You'll want to ditch some of the old sensors. There's so many ways to wire things up it's unlimited the possibilities. Check out the sticky's in the MEgaSquirt subforum.

Clean the ball joint connection in the throttle linkage.

Should be the same relay as the 280ZX right? One coil and two switches? If so drop me an email and we'll set it up.

Gas Mileage and running rich - Sounds like your AFM needs to be adjusted. First lets fix the other problems though as they could make it immpossible to set. Idle Speed - Probably a vacuum leak. Check the brake booster line and around the intake at the head. You can use a can of carb cleaner to spray around things and listen for an idle change. Voltage - You probably just need a new voltage regulator. You can have it checked at just about any auto parts store for free these days.

Best bet is the Xe7 conversion. Check these out: http://www.brightheadlights-hid.com/5-7in%20Round-Projectors.htm

Depends on the machinist. I would say my machinist would probably charge anywhere from $30-50 for that kind of work. Of course this is also the man that charged me $75 for head set, shave and valve lapping.

It's probably the tach itself. I've heard of these tachs going bad.

Gotcha, well as you can see I haven't been getting much in responses. I'm going to keep looking around, but let me know when you get it in. Thanks again!

Sweet, let me know when and what you want for them.

Will do, thanks for that info and everything else as well.

Yes, a straight MS fuel only ECU would be the cheapest route to go where you want while retaining the stock ignition system. Personally (I'm going through this right now) I'd go ahead and get the MS-II or MSnS-E and run spark. I'm working on an MS-II install into my 81ZX DD and I've learned a ton and made a lot of mistakes. I can build the ECUs all day long, but it seems installing them has really made me scratch. Thankfully with the assistance of others on here and Matt Cramer from DIY Auto Tune I have it figured out and should be up and running shortly (waiting on a new VB921). I've thrown in a header and stage II cam from MSA so although I'm not much over stock I felt better going after market for better response and fuel economy (It's a Daily Driver after all). Once I get this going I'm going to start a quick write up as I used the stock N/A VR distributor to trigger the MS-II. If you have any questions just ask, I've screwed up enough that I've learned what to look out for and what not.

You'll probably need the new seals. Rubber shrinks as it gets old.

I know this is old, but....Bump...

Wow, sounds a lot like some of the stuff I went through except for the wiring. I've been running around fixing coolant and fuel leaks. Turns out I forgot to tighten the FPR hoses to the rail. Didn't actually find that until I leaned on the rail while it was pressurized. My plugs in the thermostat housing for the ports I'm not using were leaking bad. I got one sealed but ended up putting the temperature switch back in the other to keep that port sealed. It seems to be an odd deep thread. The pitch is easy enough to match, but the depth of the threads leaves a normal bolt or plugs loose even with tape. The only wiring problem I had was the FP relay. SM switches ground and I didn't want to run under the dash and change that relay around so I ran a second relay under the hood by the main efi relay that was switched ground from MS closing hot to the stock pump relay. Lots of fun, I really did enjoy the electrical portions of the job. It was tedious in some parts, but well worth the effort in the end.

Have a safe trip. Don't worry about the blue wire on the positive side, it's not going to hurt anything. I did the same thing then realized my tach didn't work and switched it back.

Not sure, I can look. I have turbo in the yard (not mine, but close enough).

When prepping your engine to run you must set the cranking timing with the timing marks on the pulley which gives MS it's reference point or alignment point to run it's timing advance curves. Basicly you set this yourself. I had a hard time getting this together myself.

I'm running N/A and they still don't show up right. The VE tables come close depending on your required fuel, but the spark advance tables NEVER calculate right.

I'm a little curious why the table generators for advance and VE tables don't work right in MegaTune? Everytime I run the numbers it comes up with an advance table that's just horribly wrong.

In respect to rotor-to-post alignment it's just like the N/A distributor. All standard round distributors use this setup which is why you have a basic trigger advance setting in degrees. The degrees refer to the relationship of the crank position to the coil trigger, what position the crank is in when it fires. In the most basic form, the CAS pulses the trigger to the MS telling it it's time to send the signal to the coil. MS knows once it received this trigger it checks the advance table for current RPM and MAP readings, gets the needed advance and calculates when from the trigger event to fire the coil. Of course MS does this over a period of milliseconds.