naviathan

For the tach reconnect the blue wire that was attached to the negetive side of the coil. To pass smog you should be looking for a 14.7 AFR which would be a good clean burn. The car shutting off when coming off the throttle probably has something to do with your idle air control. Check your coil with a multimeter. I believe the primary windings (probes on + and - terminals) should be around 1.02 Ohm and the secondary windings (negetive and center) should be between 8.5k and 12.4k. That's just out of memory so the numbers might not be completely right, but they're close. If it checks out have your battery tested. You may have a bad cell.

Coil wiring is fine. Pin 36 and stock tach wire on negative and the stock ignition power wire is on positive. Should be good. With the nature of the VB though, if it's having to push the charge because of too much resistance then it might overheat that way. Just a theory.

I know now what blew my VB921. The secondary coil windings on my coil (negative to center) ohmed out at 17.2k, 5k more than the max recommended. I guess all the cranking pushed the old coil too far. I have a good one in from a parts car. Tested out good by the FSM specs. Once I get my new VB I should be good to go.

The needles will light up. I have ultra bright LEDs in my gauges from behind and the blue light makes the orange needles glow like neon. It's very much like a black light effect. I don't have the white overlays though. I would like to get some eventually though.

That's good advice. Get it to idle with the throttle plate cracked then work on getting it to idle with the stepper. Thanks for that tid bit.

My IAC stepper motor has a spring on the pintle. I can easily turn it in but when I let go it springs back out. Which stepper motor setting would this be? By the time this thing is running I should be a MS expert...

I know, I haven't changed that setting which is what confuses me about the VB burning up. The dwel wasn't that high and the spark is inverted. The only other thing I can think of it being is the jump box. I have a pull up resistor on the VR trigger and it might have over loaded with the pull up.

I need an O-Scope so I can check that. If it's not th dwell that overheated the VB then what the hell could it have been? I've considered maybe the jump box did it. It didn't have any problems until we hooked that up. Think that's possible?

Yeah, I'd say that's probably what blew it then. Thanks cygnus, I'll drop that down tonight and hopefully i'll have my new VB by Thursday at the latest.

Max dwell is set at 3.6, I think maybe I need to bump that down some. I got the settings from someone elses files. I've been talking to Matt through email and I think I might have this figured out.

With the tables listed above I think when it blew when I had my Trigger Advance at 4 or 5 trying to find my mark with the timing light and bumping it up from there. It was somewhere between 4 and 20 that it fried.

Thanks Moby, I guess those are the steps I'll need to take once I get my MS back up and running. Have you ever heard of a VB921 actually blowing? What reason could it have done that?

Tested the board. R43 is blown closed. I wonder if that's what caused the VB921 to blow, or if that was a result of it?

On further investigation I think it was either the jump box I had connected to the battery to keep everything going or the pull up resistor that blew the driver. One of the legs on the pull up appears to have broken contact. I think it was intermittently making contact and might be what did it. This time I'll do my pull up on the board and not in the wiring like I had it.

Does that screw really need to be adjusted? I thought the IAC would take care of the idle air flow. Oh yes the VB921 is blown, bad. It melted the nylon screw to nothing. I plugged it into the stim and I'm getting everything except ignition.

Well, lovely thing happened while I was eyeballing the timing. MY VB921 had a melt down. My spark started getting inconsistent and then POOF no more.

You mean the Trigger Wizard under tools right? The one that says match timing light to the above value? My timing light is static and all I can go by is the timing plate by the crank pulley.

I will gladly post a video of it running as soon as it does run...lol

Since I know how much everyone loves eye candy, here's some window shots for you to peruse...

Ok, so I need someone to crank the car while I sit with a timing light and try to verify 10 degrees BTDC while cranking?

Adjust the idle screw? I have a GM IAC stepper motor. The only thing that I can adjust on the throttle body is the TPS and the throttle plate stop screw. Is that what you're talking about? The stop screw?

I'm so fed up at the moment it's not even funny. The car will not idle on it's own at all. I've been playing with timing settings all day and still get get it to start without giving it some throttle and feather it to keep it going. I'm at a loss. I don't know what to do. Let me elaborate a bit. This morning I set it to TDC made sure my rotor was pointing towards the number one plug and the crank pulley was at 0* as it was suppose, pulled a Timing Advance table off the forums recalculated my required fuel and started cranking. I stopped only to charge the battery when it got low and change the Trigger Offset value. I have been everywhere from -10 to 92 and still no start anywhere. What am I doing wrong here???

Congratz! I'm still playing with my MS-II, but it's getting there!

That won't work with my setup. I'm running it off the VR sensor with no ignition module. I'm figuring somewhere around 50 would be a starting point. I'm still working with it though. It took 82 degrees to get it where it is now, but that was just using settings from the forum. I think it's not idling because I have the timing too high.

Thanks cygnus. I'm still tossing between timing and fuel. I'm not sure if I still need to tweek the timing some or go ahead and start messing with the fuel. I'm leaning more on the timing right now. I think that if I can get it to idle then I'll start playing with the fuel settings and smoothing things out.