naviathan

I both appreciate and understand your concern for my soldering skills, however I've assembled 4 (including this one) MS-II units and none of the others have had any issues. I've had customers email me with great results. They loaded the MSQ and ran with it immediately as configured, no problems at all. Not to mention I've been through this box a couple times thinking it was maybe this or that and found all circuits to be good. I've even replaced components not because they were bad, but because they were within the same circuit as one I had previously blown (VB921 and fuel pump NPN replaced with a 2N2222 never know when something right next to it is partial and only shows signs under load). I can look at the schematics for these circuits and I know exactly what they're doing. I'm a computer technician by trade and an electronics and automotive hobbyist by choice. My job keeps me proficient in my soldering and circuitry skils quite well. I'm Johnny on the spot at work, constantly making quick fixes to get the customer moving again until a more permanent solution can be handled. It's what I do so I know my work is solid. I'm still leaning more towards my valves being out of adjustment. It was fairly difficult trying to get the right settings on a new cam with new lash pads and rockers and assembly grease on it all. On that note, are the cam lobes suppose to be unfinished? I would have expected a nice smooth finish to the lobes, however the finish was rough and grey, not smooth and shiny. My machinist said that was so the new lash pads and the cam lobes could wear into each other for a matched finish. I'm not so sure.

My TPS (although quite sensitive as you describe) doesn't just jump. I'll calibrate it and the it will creep up 1% 2% 3%, no matter what I do with it. It's constantly changing. Sometimes if I tap it real quick it will drop to a negative % and work back up. I tried a TPS from the junkyard and one from the parts store. Both of them do the same thing. I'll look into the settings. Now for my VE tables. What a pain in the rear. Of course I'm using a narrow band o2, but still, this is ridiculous. I can't seem to gert this thing set for nothing. I don't want to use someones table like moby's because it seems like everyone is boosted and the non boosted ones I've found are running bigger injectors. My O2 reads lean, but by the looks of the plugs it's rich. I'm getting there, but I fear I'm going to have to blow the cash on the WB and tune it right just to get it going to where I can drive it. I've been using the MegaLogViewer to no avail. It's helped some, but nothing great. I just want to drive the thing and get good gas mileage, I'm not necessarily looking for super performance, otherwise I'd have changed the injectors out. At this point I need to readjust the valves as I think that's causing a lot of my MAP inconsistencies. Anymore tips or ideas for a VE and advance table please keep them coming.

Ok, I'm just thrilled it's running right now. It's very rough though. I tried taking it for a drive and it was very jerky and sitting at idle it keeps flashing accel enrichment. I think I need to readjust my valves though. They make a lot of noise. At first I thought it was the new cam, but this is a bit much and would explain why my map readings are bouncing at idle. My TPS keeps creeping so I changed my accel from TPS to MAP Dot. Seemed to help the throttle response, but it's still not right. I'm adding a datalog from my last drive (if you want to call it a drive). Let me know what you guys think. I'll get a video of it running so you can make a decision on the valve clatter. datalog200708051658.zip

See last post, green to ground shielding around pin 24. Oh and if the VB921 was blown you'd know it. It gets really hot and releases that magic smoke that you can never get back in. Also smells bad.

Yes but you need to keep the vacuum advance plate from moving as well as the mechanical advance. The VB921 is the coil driver. It's used in place of the 12-80 ignition module to trigger the coil. You pull the module off and run pin 24 (if you have the DIY harness it's labeled IGN and has a ground shielding and center wire) to the red wire and the ground shielding to the green wire coming off the reluctor coil. That will give you the VR input which you have to have MS jumpered for. Then you run pin 36 (labeled Pin 36 in the harness) to the coil negative. There's no pull up resistor needed for any of this.

I have the HF 220 MIG. Not sure the model, but suffice it to say I have a Lincoln now that I use exclusively. The HF was practically useless.

I have my dwell set at 3.0. Don't go any higher than 3.1. I set mine at 3.6 one time and I have the blown VB921 to show for it. Just removing the vacuum advance isn't going to do it. You need to lock the upper plate to the lower plate somehow. I would recommend putting the screw for the advance mechanism back in and JB welding it on the bottom. I did this with my last distributor I locked out only I actually tack welded it. Let us know how it goes.

Might want to get something better than Gas=A=Just struts also. You probably get massive rear squats with those.

IT RUNS!!!! WOHOOO!!! I think I'm out of gas now, but hey I got a bit of tuning in for the idle before it died. For anyone having issues getting it started here's what worked for me. I reset my dizzy and everything to TDC. I filled my advance table with 0s and set my trigger offset to 0. the I pulled the fuses from my injectors power to keep from fouling the plugs as I have been doing quite a bit of. Then I went in increments of 10 until I could see the timing mark. I made it 50 and caught the mark around 40* BTDC. From there I bumped it by 5 to get ti where it was close to lined up. My final offset ended up being 72.5*. Odd, but from the rest of you in the forums that seems normal I guess. Anyhow, I put the fuses back in loaded up a decent advance table and boom! she started right up, not problems. Of course it was really rough. And still is, but it's almost there. I went through a series of datalogging and running the VE Analyzer before I get fairly steady idle. Anyone using the MSA Stage II cam? That thing seems really noisey or maybe I just need to readjust the valves. It's a mild clacking sound. Not what I'd consider super loud, but enough that it raises some concern compared to stock. Well, tomorrow I get some gas in it and start tuning again and I'll take it for a drive. Although the engine bay seemed extremely hot the temps at the gauge were perfectly normal. I think that may be from the header though. Data log attached. I think this is where I ran out of gas. datalog200708041830.zip

I'm the exact opposite of cygnus. I built mine, but I'm good with electronics. Not so good at getting it running though apparently.

Sounds like something is grounding or shorting out. Were there any wires hanging loose or touching after you removed the side markers?

Seems the trigger angles differ with everyone on the forum. I've seen 40, 55 72, 80, 90. There doesn't seem to be any sort of standard to any of it. I would have thought 10* would be the starting point, but it seems as though it's not.

You never know. My wife loves trucks and I love Zs. So even though we could have several really nice Z cars to drive she's got a Ford Ranger. (I figure Zs are better than a Ferrari any day)

I used a fuel cell in my 77 just to get me by until I got another Z to drive while I'm fixing it up. Of course I don't have SUs, but it's not going to make a difference. A tank is a tank in that respect. I just used the factory lines and extended them to go into the back hatch where I had the cell mounted.

I've tried everything. I had it as far as 130 (yes I know 6 cylinders = 120* 130 would be more like 10*) and it would fire at 120 and 130 but not at 0 or 10. This thing acts like a software problem to me. I pulled apart my third distributor last night and locked it out. This time I didn't remove the mechanical advance I just pulled the upper assembly and tack welded the mechanical slots so it won't move. I also put the screw back in for the vacuum advance and tack welded it to the lower plate to lock out that part. Of course this was after I drained the battery and the jump box again so it'll have to wait until tonight to see if this distributor is any better. At this rate if I can't get this running before the wife's American Idol auditions I'm pulling it and throwing in an MSD box just to get it off the ground. It seems to me that there's way too many things that can throw off the VR circuit in this. Of course I'm sure fresh plugs and wires couldn't hurt. I don't want to buy new ones until I get it at least to start and idle on it's own.

Always check the BBB.org site before buying from an unknown or questionable company. They've received a rating of "F" from the BBB. This is actually the first company I've seen with an "F" rating. That's really really bad. Here's the link: http://www.labbb.org/BBBWeb/Forms/Business/CompanyReportPage_Expository.aspx?CompanyID=13202750

Guys, this picture is years old. The first time I saw it there was a news article with it. The truck was driven by a teenage kid who (Good call on the T in the road) ran through a stop sign too fast and didn't make the corner, went over the curb and launch the truck into the garage. Check that! Here's the truth! http://www.snopes.com/photos/accident/darling.asp

Tony, I have to say in the last few years I have learned more from reading some of your posts than I have from any teacher I've ever been instructed by. Ever think about writing a book?

You said it has lines that were cut? Does this mean it's an automatic? What are we talking about here?

Yeah, it's either a bad battery or a bad starter.

What's the highest you would recommend? I tried 90 and even tried adjusting the distributor and it wouldn't crank like it did at -10. I read that only wasted spark systems should be using negative trigger angles. Might that have something to do with why it runs at -10 and why the timing mark jumps occasionally?

Wow...That's incredible. Just another reason I don't care to upgrade my stereo systems beyond the stock locations. New speakers maybe, but I don't need anything extra. As long as I can hear it and it's not bothering anyone else I'm happy. I feel for the guy driving the car. If he's anything like us, the pain of loosing such a beautiful car is probably as bad as possibly being paralyzed the rest of your life.

Why would you do that?

I seem to be getting a steadier signal now, but it still wants me to set -10 before it will start. I didn't have a lot of time to screw with it last night, but I'm going to work more on it tonight. Also last night I noticed at some point I blew the fuses on both my injector lines. What would have caused that? I replaced them and everything seems fine now.

Yeah that sounds like the same problems I've been having. Just can't seem to find the right mark. I can get it running at -10, but Matt said that could be causing problem in the software and that I need to get it back to around 90 or 70. I didn't have much time to work with it either so had to stop early. I think I need to adjust my rotor some more to give me more advance.