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naviathan

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Everything posted by naviathan

  1. 77 280Z - Being torn down for resto and build up.
  2. Just a note for this thread incase anyone is looking for information on where to get freeze plugs locally (yes I say freeze plugs because Advance and AutoZone both list them as such) Advance only has the 35mm and 40mm plugs in steel. AutoZone has the 35mm in brass and steel and the 40mm and 50mm in steel only. NAPA lists them all in brass as instore only and they also list them as "Expansion" plugs.
  3. Damn....I hope I have that problem one day...lol
  4. I'm curious about that automatic mixture control. I wondered if it was really worth while or not.
  5. That was my thought. They're nice wheels for what you pay for them. If it's really bothersome I'm sure you can find some replacements rather cheap or even find some nice small 12 point bolts that will fit the holes if you tap them.
  6. Wow...Another perfect example of tons of horse power and no way to get it to the ground...
  7. The image I posted is from an addendum to the FSM and it states that the T-5 used in the Turbos recommends ATF.
  8. Well, so long as your brakes aren't over full now you should be fine. Bleed the air out of your clutch lines and go on.
  9. Sounds like that Mini Cooper commercial where the neighbors are always trying to out do each other. "Hey did you buy a Porsche?" "Quick hun, lets run down to the dealership and get the next model up...."
  10. I know I've posted this before, but this is the non w/c T5 for the turbo...
  11. So you have a fuel only MS-I? Then you won't be triggering spark with your MS. You will be simply pulling an RPM signal from the negative post on the coil. You would need to use your stock ignition system or get something like an MSD to control yours. Now I'm really confused...
  12. Haha, oops that's what I meant. Not sure why it didn't come lout right...Thanks AK-Z
  13. Yeah I wouldn't say it's the best for preventing rust, but it is a good start. I would go with a good solid epoxy primer ensuring all little cracks and spaces are filled so theres no place for moisture to hide. Then go over the under body with rhino liner. That will ensure that rocks and things that bounce up don't chip the paint and allow moisture in.
  14. I say go with the Greddy one, but they both look a little big. As we all know with turbos you want your header runs to be the smallest possible diameter without becoming restrictive so you have better velocity.
  15. WOW....I'm speechless....That car is incredible....
  16. Pardon? No return and no pressure regulator? How would that work?
  17. Thanks Mario, he was starting to confuse me...lol
  18. If the MS isn't going to control the ignition system then all it should need is the negative pole feed for RPM signal off the coil.
  19. If you're using the high current ignition driver I don't think you need to run through the transistor. Are you going to allow your MS to control spark and timing?
  20. Either way the first thing you need to determine is whether the car is going to be salvageable. 8 years is a long time in Ohio.
  21. Exactly, that's the best way to think of it is like flashing the BIOS on your computer.
  22. You're not understanding, your comms didn't fail. Your code was corrupted so there was nothing to run the comms with megatune, however by setting the system in boot loader mode with the jumper it would take an upload of new code.
  23. It might not light up any LEDs, but that doesn't mean it won't power up. That's why you should have done the voltage tests in the megamanual.
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