naviathan

For those that have lost their MSA Stage 2 cam card as I did, everything on it is pretty much stock. It recommends setting cold intake at .008" and exhaust .010". I had to call MSA and get those setting for when I reinstall everything. Though it might be pertinent information for anyone else that has the same cam.

Alright new pics. Heads gone, notice the white/tan color to cylinders 2-5? It's dry and kind of flaky, I think that would be coolant burning off, any ideas? Timing chain tool...Not really, it's a foam sanding block that seems to work great for keeping the timing chain up and some tension on the to keep the tensioner from popping out. I hunted around my garage for 15 minutes before deciding on this route. I had more pics of the ehad, but it seems either my computer for my phone are hating me right now.

Just bought the Clewett Engineering Bosch to GM IAC Adapter Body. This thing looks promising. They designed it for the Porsche which uses the same type of AAR that we do. Here's a pic of it: It's $96 which isn't bad when you consider what some of the IAC bodies are going for.

Here's what I've got so far. Just incase someone would be gracious enough to look at my settings.... Of course my target AFR is set at 14.8 on a narrow band O2. How do you get the AFR tables to be selectable. I read some on the AFR tables, but they're grayed out for me. megasquirt200707112120.zip

Wow, 25? I must be missing something here because doesn't the factory manual call for somewhere around 8 degrees?

Ok after plugging everything in, I can see that starting an msq without MS connected doesn't work. I'm still working with it as much as possible. Here's what I've got: MSA Stage 2 cam (btw does anyone know what the cold specs are, I seem to have misplaced my cam card) Pacesetter 3-into-2 header GM coolant and IAT sensors GM IAC stepper motor locked NA VR dizzy (as soon as I get the locking part straight) Everything else is a stock 81ZX N/A Can I get some suggestions for what I need to use as far as constants and enrichments and such. I think I have it figured out, but I'm not real sure. 14.8 is stoich right? I've read some people didn't get it to idle right without going down to 13.8 or so.

Head gasket...Just throwing it out there. Hasn't been mentioned, but it is possible. Just for fun dump a tube of aluma-seal in the radiator when cold, drive for 15-30 minutes, let cool and then see if it stops.

Ok, I'm taking a week off work to do my head gasket and install MS on my DD. Since I already have a new cam and header I'm going to put those in while I'm at it. Matt and HizAndHerz are already working the VR dist issue. Once I'm wired in, which I'm sure I can handle easily enough, I want to make sure I have an .msq to jump off with and run. I've been playing with one at work with no ECU connected, but I think I might have it. Can someone look this over and tell me if I'm in the ball park or if I'm WAAAYYYY out? I'll be using stock injectors, GM IAC, GM Temp and IAT. Help me out. EDIT: Nevermind....

Stock NA injectors are 180cc not 260cc. I'm working on my enrichments table as well. Been searching my butt off and so far the nonly thing I haven't figured out is the warmup enrichment percent. Still working it...Anyone have advice?

Matt - Awesome, I can't wait to see what you find. HizAndHerz - This is great, I was hoping I wouldn't be going at this lone ranger style. Hopefully we can get a full on Z install write up with the stock VR dist and not make things so daunting with having to find a turbo dist.

I would like to control fuel and spark. Would it be really difficult to get spark control with this one? I was hoping ti would be like a standard VR sensor.

As the title says. I sent one of my stock n/a distributors to Matt at DIYAutoTune, but they haven't had time to get to it yet. So just in case, has anyone on here setup MS with the stock n/a VR dist?

I used the powder tube, but alas it only lasted 2 weeks. I'm going to have to pull my head now. I have another thread titled "Head Gasket..."

Well, I hoped that the stop leak would last a little while. It would appear that after two weeks my head gasket has started leaking again and this time worse than ever. I took it on a trip to Myrtle Beach to visit family. It's about a 300 mile round trip. The car was overheating in traffic and when I got it home I pulled the dip stick to find the oil congealing into a nasty grease. I opened the oil cap and it's the same way on the valve train. I was able wipe a glob of "oil" off the nearest lobe. Looks like it's time to pull the head and get to work. I have a header I wanted to put on the car anyway and I also wanted to go through all my injectors and find some good ones to use for an MS-II install. Looks like it's time. At least it's summer time and I can ride the Harley to work.

You have to have a certain rep to use Buy It Now? I must have had enough points before I started selling because I've always had that ability. On the sell things better topic, I'm having a hard time getting rid of my MS-II ECUs. Personally I think I list good pics and set a decent price, however of the two I've sold they sold slow and to top it off I had to lower the price to where I barely made anything on it. My current one listed I have $380 and I refuse to lower it. I'm tired of cutting my profits just to move them. I don't see how other people sell them at $400 or $410.

Hang on here. I agree the car looks sweet, but, Doesn't this look a little odd considering the "detail" he put into the underbody... And not to mention, I see poor coverage on the floor boards and frame rails. Looks like surface rust accumulating under that underbody coating here... The car is beautiful, but I'm going to call BS.

So what do you think the problem could be? Maybe the UDN2916 on the daughter board?

Your MS is working, but you won't have idle air control until you get this circuit working. Check it out and see what the problem, otherwise you'll have issues when you do the install.

Something in that stepper motor circuit must be shorted and drawing too much. It shouldn't have mattered whether it's drawing from S12C or the banded end of D9 as it's essentially the same location. Check Q4 and Q20 for bridged pins and also check D8, R19 and R39 just in case. Matt - If any of these components were malfunctioning wouldn't it take out the proc as well? Or at least the associated section of it? Just curious, I'm just pulling this stuff from what I can see in the schematics.

Number one, thanks for updating your initial post because when it first popped up it wasn't complete yet. Second, no they won't work as they're not proper HID projectors. They're cheap reproductions using halogen bulbs to make them appear to be HID.

I believe the stock drive shaft has a good 1/2" worth of play in the slip joint.

???? Finish please...You haven't asked a question at all.

Who made that diagram??? At the least it isn't even labeled correctly. It's showing the low beam into the high beam and vise versa. First check to make sure you're getting 12V from the switch to the relay. Then check that you're getting your 12V feed from the 20A fuse to the relay and back out again (with power applied from switch of course). If all that checks out you have a bad bulb. If you're getting 12V from the switch and the fuse, but not out, you have a bad relay. If you're not getting 12V from the switch you have a bad switch. And as always, check all your fuses.

Hind sight is 20/20. If only I could go back then knowing what I know now...Hehe, definitely wouldn't have married my ex-wife...lol

What happens in a relay (just in case you don't know not saying anything) is the switched voltage energizes a coil which creates a magnetic field and pulls two contacts together. If the voltage is low then the magnetic field isn't as strong and the contacts won't make a good connection which creates small arcs and burns the contacts so they can't make a connection. EDIT: The low voltage can also cause the coil to burn up, but that's less common.