Mike Mileski

Here's information that I've got on file. I think its pretty accurate. R230s are found on 90-94 Infinity Q45s and 90-96 300ZXs, both turbocharged and normally aspirated. All are viscous limited slip. I don't know the ratio on the Q45 but the turbo 300ZX is 3.61 and the non-turbo is 4.08. Maybe someone else knows the Q45 ratio. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I don't see how the carrier, gears or anything else inside of an R230 could fit into an R200 housing. The R230 is much larger in all aspects. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Paul, you said "aftermarket" Cobra R style wheels. What brand and model are they? They look perfect on your car. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I also just picked up an R230 out of a 300ZX Twin Turbo. The ratio on the turbo cars is 3.6:1 (that's what mine is) and normally aspirated ones are supposed to be 4.08:1. I plan on doing the driveshaft to rear end flange as a fixed one. Here's why. It looks like the stock 300ZX TT driveshaft is constructed to have a certain amount of in and out movement on the rear end side. It is constructed with ball bearings as the torque transmitters, similar to how the inner CV joint works. It even has a bellows type rubber cover on it to allow for some in and out movement. Although I haven't verified it, I bet the other end of the driveshaft attaches to the transmission with no in and out movement. Since most of us are using trannies with splined output shafts and a yoke that allows in and out movement, we wouldn't really want any in and out movement on the other end of the driveshaft, too. I'm wrestling with this same issue on the half shafts. I know some of you here who have done this swap have used the inner CV joint on the outer part of the shaft, meaning that you have an identical CV on each end. This allows the shaft to move in both directions, which just doesn't seem right. The stock setup only allows movement on the inner side. I'm still trying to figure out how to do the outer side so there won't be any movement there. Any further thoughts on this "movement-in-both-directions" issue by anyone? Or is it not worth worrying about? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I just wrote Richmond Gear an email last week, telling them I had a T-5 out of a 1991 Z-28 and I wanted something stronger that I could still bolt up to my 15 degree canted bellhousing. Here is the message I received back from them: "Richmond 6 speed part number 7051626 and yoke number 54-1310 would be a complete bolt-in change over package from your T-5". The problem is, I think the cost of the tranny is $2195. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Has anyone found a suitable three point retractable belt as a replacement for the early Zs non-retractable shoulder belts? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I've got a note saved from an earlier search from this forum that the R230 from the twin turbo 300ZX (1990-1996) has a 3.61:1 ratio and the ones from normally aspirated ones have a 4.083:1 ratio, both viscous limited slip. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

How do I make sure I'm buying the correct viscous limited slip R230 if its off the car and sitting on the shelf at the junkyard? The guy is telling me it came out of a '91 300ZX Twin Turbo but is there any ID markings on it that would differentiate it from a standard, non-viscous R230? Any help would be appreciated. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I had a company called "North Hollywood Speedometer" convert the amp gauge in my early Bronco to a volt gauge. They used VDO internals and resilkscreened the gauge face to the standard 8-18 volt range in the original font. It looks just like a factory volt gauge if they had offered one, it matches all the others perfectly. I'm sure they could do the same with a Datsun gauge. Here's their site: http://www.nhspeedometer.com/ Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Jason, I just did the parallel resistor thing on my early Ford Bronco, 1969, that I put a SEFI '91 Mustang motor into. Even using the stock Bronco sending unit, I couldn't get the stock gauge to show the proper normal running temperature, about 190 degrees. I wired in a 20 ohm resistor in parallel, and now it reads where it should. I know its not as accurate at lower temperatures but, who cares? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have an 1969 early Bronco and both the front and rear driveshafts have a double carden joint on one end to compensate for the difference in angles between the transfercase output shafts and the pinion shaft on the differentals. A double carden joint is essentially a joint consisting of two u-joints. Has this ever been discussed as a possible solution to the driveline vibration problem that can exist in the v-8 conversion in Zs? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have always added an extra little cable or wire and ran it into the passenger compartment where I could activate it if the stock cable failed. It never has but some of these comments shows its not a bad idea. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Jeff/Jake, I'm a V8er and live in Tucson. I'll give you my home and work emails if you want to get in contact sometime (anytime, really). brncs55@cs.com (home) mjmileski@west.raytheon.com Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I've heard that those bellows type covers also do a pretty good job holding in any moisture that may find its way inside. That may be more of a minus than worrying about the debris problem.

The balancer that came stock on my ZZ engine clears with no problems. I think the ports on the aluminum heads on this engine are only a tenth of an inch higher than other Chevy heads, so restrictions, if any, will be minimal.

You can read more about V-8 Fieros at: http://www.v8archie.com

Well, I'm about ready to do my exhaust system and know that it would be simpler if I could only use a single muffler (I'm running a new Chevy ZZ 350 H.O. crate motor) as opposed to squeezing in two of them, along with the extra tubing. My worry is that a single muffler will cause serious restrictions at higher rpms. I even bought a Borla, modified it to fit using the stock hanger, and then sold it because of my concerns. Any good experience with good flowing (and not overly noisy) single mufflers out there?

With all this talk about oil pressure, has anyone ever installed a dry sump system on their car? This is something I've thought about doing down the road but would be interested to see if someone's already done it and hear their lesssons learned. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ