Mike Mileski

I took my buddy for a quick spin up into the Santa Catalina Mountains north of Tucson, AZ last Wedesday and he was taking a few video shots along the way (see link below). It was 106 degrees in Tucson that day and about 70 at the top of the mountain, 9000+ ft. elevation. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

S30 cars are unibodies. The Corvette has a separate body which is bolted to a frame. Attaching a Z to a Corvette frame would be a major, major undertaking, IMHO. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

They were TIG welded. And remember, this guy shortened them himself, made a fixture to reweld them straight and then did the welding. I didn't have to do anything. I am using strut inserts and a coil over kit I bought from Modern Motorsports. Here's a picture of one of the sectioned front ones, now 1.5" shorter than stock. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I just thought I'd pass along the name of the guy in Tucson that shortened my strut housings. His name is Eric Miller and, for $40 each, he cut out the exact amount I wanted (in my case, 1.5 inches), welded them back together, ground the outside welds smooth and then welded on the support ring for the threaded sleeve. All I had to do was file off a few weld bumps inside the tubes. Eric, now retired, was an aerospace welder at Raytheon Missile Systems in Tucson for over thirty years and does pristine work. You can ship him your struts for shortening but he won't ship back, you'd have to come and pick them up but, believe me, its worth it for that price and the quality of the work. He can be reached at (520)749-8705 if you want to discuss your individual needs with him. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

rockauto.com has Spicer ball joints ($35 each) and Spicer tie rods ($24 each), for a total of $118. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Toki, I also live in Tucson and the guy that I had do mine is a retired welder from Raytheon. I think he only charged me $35 each and he did the sectioning, rewelded them back together and then welded on the new spring perch ring. Let me know if you're interested and I'll give him a call to see if he's willing to do any more. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here's a picture of another variation I did which places the rod end for the sway bar link directly above the arm in double shear. The other arm is the tubular Arizona Z Car arm. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I was the one advertising the arm kit that jeromio was talking about above. I had made a set for myself and made a couple of extra sets at the same time. The tie rod end is the same one that Arizona Z Car used on the front tubular arm that they used to sell. Its a heavy duty piece off the front of a late model Ford truck. The threaded shank is a 22mm thread, which is over 7/8", so its not a marginal part. Even though there were never any issues with the Arizona Z Car arms as far as strength were concerned, I just wanted a little more beef and used 1 1/4" tubing with a 1/8" wall and welded in threaded inserts. Because it has right hand threads on one end and left hand threads on the other, its much easier to adjust than the original Arizona Z Car arm, which was right hand threaded on both ends. Yes, you have to disconnect the TC rod and then rotate it a full turn to adjust it but that's still amounts to a very minor camber change. I am in the middle of prototyping another arm that will use a female rod end on the inner side, a 3/4-16 jack screw and then a short piece of tubing that will connect the jack screw and the Ford tie rod end. This should allow much more minor and accurate adjustments without disconnecting the TC rod. I'll post pics for comment as soon as I have one put together. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Stock Car Products sells 1" tubing, varying lengths, that has a 3/4-16 RH thread on one end and 3/4-16 LH threads on the other, internal about two inches deep. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Brian, what is that pivot end thing called and where did you find it. I'm helping a friend build a sand rail and we're looking at an application that could use something like that. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

What year of vehicle is the "perfect fitting 2 speed Lincoln fan" from? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I still think the real telling factor on how well a system cools is when you're sitting in traffic at idle. The lack of forced air flow, combined with no easy escape route for the hot underhood air, may even be worse than flat out track driving. Even though I haven't had any cooling issues, before I add my AC, I plan to louver the hood or install some functional hood vents for hot air to escape. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Go to an auto parts store and have them look up the part numbers for both years. If they're the same, you're in business. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

onlinemetals.com has 4" X 2" X .125" wall hot rolled tubing. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Has anybody had any luck adapting three point, retractable seat belts into early 240s? I know that later cars had depressions built into the door sill to accomodate the reel but I am having a hard time trying to figure out how to bolt in something that doesn't require major modifications. There seems to be zero room to fit anything in next to the outer portion of the seat. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ Never mind. I searched some more and found some info.

Pete, hope the surgery goes well. I've had on and off back problems for years (really bad a couple of times), so I can sympathize. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here's another one that's supposed to be pretty good. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=23317&parentCategoryId=11673&langId=-1 Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I've got an R230 out of a '91 TT. You're right,the spacing on the rear studs is different. I bought a billet aluminum mustache bar made for a Q45 R230 and the spacing wasn't wide enough for my diff so I had to return it. I'm a firm believer, like many others, that the Q45 diffs are R200s, not R230s. The spacing of the rear mounting studs on my diff is about 5.5" (I think its really 140mm, but its certainly more than the 4.75" on the R200). The diameter of my input flange is pretty close to 4.25" and the center-to-center spacing on the two front mounting bushings is right around 7.00". Hope that helps. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have a 1969 Bronco half cab (its the one with the short pick-up bed on it). Not too many of those around, they stopped offering that option in 1972. I have a 91 5.0 Mustang motor in it. I've had four early Broncos over the last 15 years or so, this one for the last ten. I'd sure try and avoid buying anythng with significant rust. You can buy virtually any body panel but, unless you have experience in replacing them yourself, it can get expensive real fast having somebody else do it, especially if its something like a door post. Just my $0.02 worth. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have ceramic coated Hooker block hugger headers with 90 degree Taylor silicone wires and, after several thousand miles, the wires look like new. I believe the main reason for this is the excellent insulating properties of the ceramic. You can't do too much if your headers aren't coated because things are going to get hot. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

GM does make a little booklet called an Installation Guide for the LS1. Its pricey but does offer some good general information. http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/516/products/80465/LS1-Engine-Kit-Installation-Guide.htm Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have always noticedd two different part numbers for the steering racks, early and late. I wonder what makes the later ones different? If they're beefier, I wonder specifically what parts are. Anybody know? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have the early Supra rims on my '71 Z with 225-60 tires, no spacers and there are no fitment issues. Don't go to the dealer for lug nuts, they are super expensive. I went to one of those tire/rim shops and bought new chrome ones for $1 apiece. I remember WAAAY back, the center caps on mag wheels had four little tabs that stuck out and they mounted with four little sheet metal screws to the rim. I was unable to find them anywhere either so my wheels remain capless. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I like it! Solid feel and, with the recessed cutouts, the bolts just hold it together and don't have to experience all that torque. Its one of those "Wow, why didn't I think of that" ideas. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Designing something to give you double shear on the outboard side would be pretty difficult. That is, unless you're designing your own custom upright that utilizes the stock outboard Z32 TT axle end, like Jamie T is doing. Hmmm... Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ