Mike Mileski

Sorry that I haven't gotten far enough along to help with this dimension yet. I planned on installing the inner and outer CVs on my suspension, without a spring, moving it to the straight out position (which should be the "shortest" position) and determining the length there. This brings up another question. Some of you guys talk about shortening and resplining your axles. On my axles, the OD of the axle is smaller inside of the splined areas by about .020" -.030". How can you respline one of these and expect complete engagement of the splines? I was planning on having someone make two new axles because of this issue. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Are you running a thermostat? If not, water can literally go through the radiator so fast it can't dissipate the heat. This would be most prevalent at higher speeds. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Does anyone have a stock GM T-5 out of their car that can tell me the dimension from the front of the transmission face, where it bolts to the bellhousing, to where the shift lever comes out? Much appreciated. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

You can get spare parts directly from Tilton (tiltonengineering.com). Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Ross, at the bottom of this message, click on the "profile" icon. At the next screen, click on "Personal gallery of Mike Mileski", and then you can see my pictures. Plus, you have an email of mine to respond to at your Modern Motorsports mailbox. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Boy, I'd do everything possible to avoid buying a car with any rust showing. If its got visible rust, chances are its got a lot more invisible rust. You may waste more time doing body work (no fun) than working on the V-8 swap (mucho fun). I don't know what part of the country you live in but I'd sure try looking in southern or western states if possible to increase your odds of finding a car with less rust. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I wanted a better solution to modifying an 230 axle for my R230 swap. So far, it seems everyone has used the inner CV on both the inner and outer ends when they shorten and modify the R230 axle for use in a Z car. The problem is that, in the stock configuration, the R230 axle can slide in and out of the inner CV but it is fixed in the outer CV. The modifications everyone else has done allow the axle to move in both the inner and outer CVs. It can move far enough to actually contact the pressed in grease/dust shield on the inner CV, not an ideal situation. My idea was to modify the outer portion of the stock R230 axle so it could be adapted to the Z car axle flange which would allow the modified axle to still function as it did originally. I did this by having a couple of pieces machined for a press fit onto the bearing flange on the end of the modified outer CV axle, then welded in place. The stock Z car axle flange bolts directly to the adapter. You can view a few pictures in my personal gallery (Mike Mileski). Let me know what you think. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ[/url]

What's a good source for a comprehensive wiring diagram for my '71 240? I have an issue with brake lights / turn signals / tail lights that I need to fix. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I just got my '71 240 running and through emissions after purchasing a brand new 670 cfm Holley Street Avenger carb. Everything seems fine except when I really get on it, then it seems to just go flat at about 4000 rpms. If I get on it more gradually, it seems fine. Any ideas on what might be happening? I thought about lack of fuel, but I have a 3/8" feed line with one of those Mallory gerator pumps. Any advice appreciated. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Mr. Lurid, send me an email at home (brncs55@cs.com) and I'll give you my phone number and you can come over and look at my 1971 with a 350 H.O. crate motor in it. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Yes, that big Ford. So, it looks like the vertical hole dimension on a big Ford rear axle is 2.375" (vs. the Z's 2.360"), the horizontal hole dimension is 3.500" (vs. the Z's 3.400") and the center hole diameter is 3.150" (vs. the Z's 3.225"). Makes you wonder if some precision filing could make it fit? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Does anyone happen to have a rear backing plate for a 240Z handy that they could measure the distance between the four bolts that mount it to the hub carrier? It looks close to 2 1/4" on the heighth and about 3 1/4" on the width, but mine is on the car and its hard to get something to measure with in there. Also, how big is the hole in the middle? It looks to be around 3" - 3 1/4". Or else tell me where these dimensions might be found in any literature. Many thanks. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Remember, there is a process known as "extrude honing" where an abrasive clay-type material can be forced through the stock cast iron manifold passages to enlarge and smooth them, resulting in increased flow rates. I don't know anything about pricing, though. It might be worth looking into for this application. Here's one site. http://www.extrudehone.com Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Oops, I meant the 300ZX TT cover bulges out right under the two studs. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Does anyone have any suggestions where I could pick up a good condition (and relatively inexpensive) cover for an R230 differential off of an Infinity? I have a complete rearend out of a 300ZX TT and the cover is a slightly different design than the one that comes on an Infinity. The design is such that I will need to add a couple of spacers on the two mounting studs so it will clear the mustache bar and I'd rather not do that. This is because the Infinity cover bulges out right below the studs. I've seen pictures where guys have used the Infinity rearend and there doesn't seem to be a clearance issue with it. Thanks mucho for any pointers. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here's a question for you guys who are familiar with disassembling the R230 axle shafts. I've got an R230 and two axles. Disassembling the inner CV was straight forward but the outer has me puzzled. There is a snap ring, which I've expanded and slid up the shaft, but all that allows me to do is push the splined shaft into the pivot ball another 3/8" - 1/2". I can't see what the next step is to disassemble this joint. Any suggestions? HELP! Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Curtis, PLEASE, post some pics. I'd love to see what you've done. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

If there's anyway to vent hot air directly up and out through openings in the hood (louvers or vents that really vent), this can go a long way towards solving overheating problems. When you're sitting still, the hot air building up under the hood has a hard time escaping and it just makes a bad situation (i.e. minimal airflow through the radiator) even worse. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I'm pretty sure that the neutral safety switch thing on stick shift cars began sometime in the early 70s. Some car makers may have known about some of the impending regs before they became mandatory and implemented them a little early. I remember having several older cars that broke clutch linkages, leaving me stranded, and doing the "put it in gear and start it" scenario to get going from a dead stop. No safety switches involved there. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Once you see it sitting in there, it looks like it could have been a factory installation. It looks like it belongs in there. Datsun should have come up with the idea of doing it 30 years ago themselves Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

My info shows that both the normally aspirated and Turbo 300ZXs are viscous limited slip. The ratios differ however. NA is 4.08:1 and the Turbo is 3.61:1. I have a Turbo version and have verified its a 3.61 but have never seen a NA version in person. In addition, it appears the Q45 rear cover is more user friendly for mounting to an early Z cars moustache bar. Mine might require some 1/4" spacer washers to make sure the bulge in the case clears the moustache bar. If I knew where to pick up just the diff cover off of a Q45 cheap (if anybody knows where I could, please let me know) I'd use that one instead of the one off the 300ZX. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I agree with Pete. You need to have the fan running if the AC is on. You could build up some high pressures in your system if the AC was on and there wasn't any air moving across the condenser. If you were moving it would be okay but, if you stopped in traffic, then you could be in trouble. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Yeah, somebody paid a whole lot less than I paid for them But now I'll have the latest and greatest Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

The number on an AN line indicates its size in sixteenths of an inch. Therefore -8 is 1/2" (8/16), -6 is 3/8" (6/16), etc. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I think all early Broncos, 1966-1977, with V-8s (289s until mid-68 and 302s after that) had rear sump only pans. I've owned several and that's what I remember. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ