deja

Thanks. Being blind as a mole doesn't help much either, LOL. I'll attack this thing again tonight.

No, But basically its a 1" piece of oak rounded over and two 1/8" groves cut in it which I have brass inlaid.

Nope. going automatic 4L60E, so I only need a small hole through the floor. The guy I sold my old engine/tranny to says he might buy the console if I start frm scratch.

Thanks. The stock one was pretty trashed when I got the car and I've always liked wood in sports cars. Now that I'm going with the LT1 and JTR setbacks I'll have to rebuild it.

LOL I don't have that in my car anymore either. Custon console and lower dash. I removed those two lights above the HVAC.

I'll look again, but it seems like whatever holds them on is behind the plastic panel, catch 22. I guess I'll have to crawl in there and look closer.

Thanks, I wasn't even close. LOL. I can rip that thing outta there. No muffler in that area anymore and that relay is not hooked up anyway.

This can't be rocket science but its got me stumped and the shop manual is useless. I need to remove the side trim pieces in the hatch area but they seem to require removing the struts from the body. I can't see what holds the struts to the body. I've removed all the push on rivet things but the panel won't move past the struts at the top or the frame on the bottom. What's the secret?

It is located on the floor of the hatch on the driver's side right in front of the tail lights. It was half under a little metal cover, has 2 wires coming out that disappear into the light wiring harness. I'm thinking it has something to do with the fuel tank, maybe rollover switch for the fuel pump?

I was thinking since the ones I have are still holding shape and not in pieces...............yet, I may be able to use them as fiberglass molds. Making them out of metal I think is beyond my capabilities. I'm no body fabricator, no clue how to attempt making compound bends in aluminum. We'll see, right now I'm just starting my LT1 engine swap so I will be pretty busy for a while. I'm very surprised these aren't readily available considering how many of these cars are still around.

Way cool, love the color. Blending the headlight buckets into the front end is really nice.

Thanks, I looked on Ebay, nothing offered at this time. I did see some at Datsun.ect http://www.2ndtimeauto.com/exterior-body-trim-c-31.html?page=2&sort=1a for $39.95 each. But they are used and wonder if they are in much better shape. I guess I'll check the local Datsun shop here in Atlanta. His prices are high but at least I can see what I'm getting.

Did some searching but didn't see anything about the plastic inner fenders, just fenders and flares. I pulled my front inner fenders off tonight and they damn near fell apart. Lots of cracks and they are very brittle after 30 years. Does anyone know where I can get replacements? I thought for sure Black Dragon would have them but there is nothing in their catalog.

Damn Wayne, that thing is going to be a beast at SEZ8, can't wait to see it run. Is it even louder than it was last year? Love that big block sound.

The sway bar is in the way for sure. I'm hoping with thr JTR flange, better bolts and a better chioce of wrenchs it will be easier going back in. Yeah, like that always happens.

This is in the instructions for installing JTR's flange: Use socket head bolts (8 mm x 30 mm long, or 10 mm x 30 mm long) because it is difficult to get a box wrench around standard hex-head bolts. Use self-locking nuts to fasten the flange to the differential. Standard nuts have been known to come loose, with disastrous results. We recommend that you use Locktite® in addition to the self-locking nuts. If you get a driveline vibration in the car, always check the bolts on the differential flange to see that they are tight.

Taking this off-line, I sent you a PM

I got 'em off. Yep y'all are right, gotta get it in the right position, lock the brake, take one off at a time. Would have been nice to have that second person, LOL. Z-ya, I'm not new at working on cars, new to Datsuns. Most car's u-joint don't mount like that or have that limited access. BTW do you actually read my post? LT1 not LS1. peace

I doubt if you could get a machine shop to make those for what JTR asks.

It is up, I have crawled under and see no way to get a wrench on those nuts.

Ok I'm not new at working on cars and removing stuff but this IRS is different for sure. I'm pulling my old setup out and am confused on how to get to the drive shaft nuts at the diff. I see no way to get to the nuts on the back of the flange without lowering the diff. Is that correct? Is the a trick to this I can't see?The Camaro had a ton of room to work, this thing has none. The shop manual says "Remove the bolts securing the companion flange". Yeah right! The bolt heads I can see toward the front of the car look captured, they are not hex heads so I have to remove the nuts on the back which I can't get a wrench on.

Awesome, glad you found it. Missing/bad grounds and be a PITA to find sometimes.