Snailed

Oh, that's neat. Is it common to run no fan at all on a track car?

I like how you mounted the panel. That's going to work really well I bet. Any tricks you're going to employ to make the wiring/lines look nice on the back?

Jb glue just isn't a safe way to patch that hole.

next time you break a bolt just have your welder friend weld a washer to it, then weld a nut to that and wind it out. I have had really good success doing it that way.

I'm a big fan of using your brain as a signal processor for knock. Modern wideband knock sensors are very good but I know for a fact that I can "out hear" the few factory knock systems I have tested against, and those are tuned to for each specific engine (where the J&S isn't). Once you know what to listen for, it's a great way to tune out knock on whatever your particular setup is.

All that radiator and you strap the fan right to the core? The car never runs at slow speeds I take it?

Mine is still 99% stock. '71 240z, a couple gallons of gas, all other fluids topped up and heavy recaro knock off seats = 2330 lbs. You're supposed to subtract your weight when you stand on a scale with parts in your hands

Any ideas or numbers on what this whole setup weighs, including an R200?

yeah, heavy wheels take the "sport" out of sportscar in a hurry. 19-20lbs for a 17x9 is a about the maximum I would even consider. I remember swapping out some very heavy 15s for some 12.5lb 17" wheels for a customer and the change was amazing. It rode better even with half the sidewall.

Great build! How wide is the hub to hub measurement on that rear suspension assembly?

I would be far more worried about oil presssure on a fresh startup than temp on an engine like yours.

Which multilink crap are you refering to? Rear suspension of the 240sx/skyline/q45 or newer stuff?

If you have a pick up filter or sock in the tank that could be mostly clogged and causing this problem.

Even some motoroil or bearing grease would be better then nothing IMO.

I have use of the shop that employs me. It's pretty sweet actually. -Bridgeport -6foot south bend lathe -large vertical bandsaw from the 50s ~20" throat -large miter horizontal bandsaw 12 x 12 -metal beltsander 3 x 48 -10"disc sander -tube bender -tube notcher - air over hydraulic 90* -tube notcher - roughing endmill + fixture adjustable angle -Miller Dynasty 300 -Miller syncrowave 250 -Miller sp250 -Airco 250 -snap on plasma up to 1/2" -plasma or torch automated cutting table -big oxy fuel torch -frame jig -rotisserie -drive on lift -body shop lift -english wheel -2 gang drill press from the 30s -pullmax with several forming/shrinking dies -48" slip roller -9' slip roller -electric beadroller -4' box and pan brake -8' brake -basic bar/tube bender w/ dies -brake tube straightner -20ton press -fender roller -planishing hammer -4' electric over hyd. shear (cuts 1/8 x 4' mild steel) -beverly shear - the bigger one -wash tank -2x6x3 blast cabinet -transmission jack And a pile of air tools and body shop related tools. I'm pretty grateful.

A light coating of antiseize maybe? That amsoil stuff is actually pretty good for preventing rust, considering how light it is anyway.

You're right I think. Didn't mean to spread bad info. It's just the driveshaft companion flange that changes car to car depending on if it has an ABS sensor there. I found this on KA-T.org (he is refering to the companion flange to the driveshaft): "All the above R200(v)'s has the same lenght pinion's, like someone that knows his stuff mentioned it already, the different in lenght is subtracted for via the companion flange for the differentials that have teh ABS sensor on the snout."

Nice car. I hope you get it all sorted and running perfect. Here's my two cents; Hot heat range plugs with a tiny electrode is a bad recipe for a turbo motor. What's easier to get glowing red with a lighter, a paper clip or a tire iron? Glowing things in your combustion chamber are bad if you plan on spraying fuel on them. You really don't need the durability of those hyped up, 50k mile electrodes on a fun car like yours anyway. Did you tune the fuel map(s) after changing turbine housings? It's not rare to get creep from overly rich AFRs. Having the creep get better with the new housing really doesn't make sense. Exhaust will take the path of least resistance and you made it easier for it to go through the turbine wheel than it was before...idk just throwing ideas around. Good luck!

If it's an R200 R&P from an ABS car it should fit from what I have read. You must have some short tires.

I would mount it on a trailer since it's so loud

yeah, that could be what the guy had in mind. That skyline is about as apealling as the 240 to me too...shrug. Styling is so subjective though. Make it fun to drive and I'm sure it will be a fun project for you

If you can drill it out and through bolt it without taking too much off the other side, I would just do that. Using an allen head cap screw on the block side will require a very small flat and still get the job done. The shear forces are really pretty small on that bolt if all the bell housing bolts are tqd properly. As long as the bolt has the right tensile strength and it's tight, it will be fine.

weird. That rear body line and the rear side windows are 2 of my favorite styling details on the s30s. I can't believe someone killed both of them in one whack!! If the floors and everything down low are in good shape it's a good start for a project. good luck

I have done a few supercharged vipers with water pre-charger..one of them made over 1000whp/ftlbs on pump gas and water. All the STIs I have setup ran one nozzle right before the throttle body and on stock turbo/topmount cars we got about 50 whp with a 50 water 50 meth mixture. I also had good luck on big turbo STIs and made high 500s on pump and water. Everyone has different experiences and I know I will just stick with what has worked for me. I still think taking heat directly out of the combustion chamber makes far more sense than just cooling the charge air. I'm more concerned with system efficency than just turbo efficency. If you do go pre-turbo I really doubt there will be any damage to the compressor wheel, as long as you are running high pressures and using a modern agracultural style nozzle. I have never run a filter on my street turbo setups and after 50k miles on the stock turbo the compressor wheel was barely showing any wear on the leading edge. Check out the compressor wheels on some of the fastest cars in the world...they are often beat to hell and working just fine. john..that's a good practice for sure, but for street cars, running race gas is just too expensive and inconveinet. Added complexity can change reliability of a setup but there are steps that can be taken to make it a reasonable risk. Many people try to argue that on the carburator vs fuel injection front and I always ask them which system they drive to work or give the wife to drive it's all about refinement.

filters can be for almost any size line. 3/8" is just common. You really should have something before the pump. A more open element like many factory filter socks is fine.