Snailed

If the ecu has been "cracked" and people are tuning it then yeah, it might be doable. Lots of people have done this kind of thing before but with the options out there now I don't really see the adavantage. A used megasquirt, haltec, or AEM could end up costing the same and have huge tuning advantages and be much easier to install.

Make sure you don't buy any integra coilovers. They are not a strut design and besides having pivots at the bottom, are not designed to take any side load at all. I'm sure you have done some research by now but figured I would mention it just in case. Car looks like a good project, have fun!

Good call, it would be pretty hard to not get it on the good metal too...converter and spray paint

What happened to the old control arm mounts?

The combination of rust converter and an acrylic enamal spray paint is more than enough to protect a rusty area for a long time if you intend to cut it out later. There are also converter/paints like por15 and wurth rust-guard that are a one step "solution" with even less prep work, but may cost a little more. Putting some duct tape over the holes will help keep out water and critters but it gives a very unique look that you might not be keen on if this is a car you're driving.

Thats so weird how they stamp the left and right ones backwards from what is really the left and right side of a car. I can't imagine it would take much of a hit to bend that 1/8" aluminum and push the 240 bunper right into your fenders. There is a reason bumper brackets are steel usually. maybe buy 2 sets and double them up lol

I guess you wouldn't. I'm aware of what the vapor is, I just don't agree that draining it back is a horrible idea in all cases. Some of the motors I'm used to dealing with (Hondas) generally puke out a lot of oil at high HP levels so a drainback is a must. On the lower powered ones (under ~500whp) it's always the regular gunk like you have there. Draining back water doesn't bother me as it evaporated out of the oil once it's up to temp. Partially and unburnt fuel however is no good but that should be kept in check with a good ring seal on more mild setups.

Nice! That's a fun car I bet! What tires? How much does the car weigh?

Have you tried going to an AC or hotrod shop? Even if the ends that fit your car are special you can cut the crimp sleeve off and reuse the inner part with a new sleeve and line. I would probably charge you about $50 to remake that line if you brought it in. Adding all kinds of adapters and fittings is just inviting more leaks IMO.

Too bad Hardrace doesn't make any S30 fitments. The hard rubber lasts much longer than poly but are stiffer than OE rubber and don't squeak. I wonder if any bushings they make would fit a 280z?

The smaller ones are nice to have if you are doing something thin, like 19g thinner. Another draw back of the smaller/cheaper spot welders is that the jaws can't clamp as tight as you might want so you would have to dolly the areas for each weld so they mate nicely. If you get one make sure to do a few destructive tests to make sure you are getting a good weld.

If you have the money or knowhow that can be fixed. It will either take a lot money or a lot of your time. If the bad areas are that bad it means that the "good" parts are on their way out too, so it will involve a lot more than just those few spots that you mentioned. I don't really see the point in having a $40k dollar stock 240z but I know some people would choose to fix it. I work at a pretty expensive restoration shop and you wouldn't beleive what people are OK with paying for cars that are just not worth it. So yeah, that's a parts car if you have any sense.

Try a piece of pushlock hose and a -8 pushlock hose end instead of the braided stuff. It's designed to seal over the barbs on the hose ends so it has a strong outer sleeve and a soft inner that will seal much better than what you have with a regular worm style clamp on the outside.

Why? The fact that it gets blown out of the cranckcase doesn't make it any more dirty than when it was lubricating your bearings a few seconds prior.

All you can really do is polish the surface that is there to remove very light scratches. If you have a paint buffer try some medium compound or swirl remover. It will shine it up and remove very fine scratches and it might get rid of some rust staining, but it wont fix it. Don't use anything more adrasive than compound on it though.

Yeah, I would like to see them...or even pictures of the car.

a leaking silicone coupler can squeel under pressure.

Make sure it's on a thermostat. Over-cooling is not good.

Yeah, I see your point. Either way, an 8 foot exhasut pipe isn't helping anyone make big power. I'm sure cams change things quite a bit when you are focused on scavanging. I'm more used to turbo stuff where stock cam cars just get more boost to make the same power

John, think you missed leons point since you are really just elaborating on what he said. I would hardly call a 13" megaphone a full exhaust, but yes they do help scavenging on NA cars. An interesting thing on those F1 headers and a good example of things we can learn from $$racing$$ and apply to our street cars... As counter intutive as it is, a steeper (15* or more) merge angle on the collecter is actually MORE efficent than a shallow one at high rpms. I beleive this was figured out when F1 was dominated by turbo hondas in the 80s. That and prioritized wastegates are two great F1 concepts that I apply to my turbo manifold builds 25 years later haha

Nice chart! This is why we were supposed to learn math in school A couple observations; Obviously you need big(er) exhasut to make big power but even if you are not nearing the theoretical choke size of the tube an oversized exhasut can still help a turbocharged setup. The turbo spools almost entirely because of a pressure differential between the inlet of the turbine housing and the outlet. A nearly perfect turbo exhaust would be a cone coming right from the turbine outlet (exhaust manifold pressure ---> atmosphere). That's usually a pretty bad idea on a car though...so, a big huge exhaust is a good solution to make the biggest pressure differential across the turbine and get the fastest spool up and boost response while not burning your car to the ground. So the guys not making huge power on small engines are still benefiting from a 3" exhasut. Sorry if that was rambley, but i get excited about turbo cars and making exhausts for them. Another thing to remember is that the exhaust flow "sticks" to the walls of the tube so even though two tubes may have the same crosssectional area, the internal surface the exhasut is "dragging" on is quite different. The single 4" has WAY less internal area than two 3". For this reason a round tube flow much better per square cm than square one. Just some ideas to think about. I build exhaust and other plumbing for high performance and custom cars all the time, so this is what I like to think about while I sit shirtless on my couch...after work...sigh

Yeah, if you raise the boost it shouldn't creep. Exhaust is lazy, it just wants to get out the easiest way possible and on your setup (big exhaust) it's easier to go through the turbine wheel than make a 90* turn into a little wastegate hole. Porting it and radiusing the leading edge of the inlet and trailing edge of the outlet as well as increasing the diameter can all help. If you open up the volute only up until the WG port, that will help too. The best fix is always more boost though

Rather than start swapping ignition components around, try closing the plug gap way down (.025") and see if the problem persists. I have had to run even tighter gaps on some engines with stock ignitions and lots of boost.

It's normally found on cars that have factory PWM boost control. Same function as the top port on an external wastegate, to keep the wastegate shut. You could hook up a piggy back boost controler or PWM output and solenoid from your standalone/ecu and use it to control boost if you wanted to.

The first video is compressor surging because the blow off/bypass valve is too tight or there just isn't one installed. The 2nd video is a ssqv that is too tight and causing some surge. The fluttering sound is bad it beats the hell out of your thrust bearing in the turbo and can cause more damage in extreme cases. A proper setup (imo) is one where you only hear the air rushing out, not beating up your turbo.