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I have one you could have for $40 plus shipping. Ive had it forever and bought a bre one recently. So i have no need. Its fiberglass; not cracked or anything. Brand new minus mounting hardware. Looks like this: http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2752/2681/31878840023_large.jpg

If only you wouldve needed these a few weeks ago. I threw away my stock mounts. I know with a 20 you can use all the stock mounts.

Item 3 is the stock resistor. Itll come out when you take the stock harness out. Item 4 looks like the line for the washer squirters. Looks just like mine. All hard and broke. Ha. Remember when you drop the engine in to rewire the voltage regulator (on the passenger side) for the rb alternator. (Stock is external voltage regulator and rb is internal)

double post

I have one. Might be kinda far though.

I read somewhere (on an sx forum i think) that the igniter from a 300zx tt works. You can literally swap the plugs and it should work. As for coilpacks, just swap over to gm ones. Makes life easy. And a lot cheaper. Especially if your pushing some boost through your 20 like me xD

Carl H tunes are awesome. They work very well once you have everything. I think you have the right idea; wait to get all the parts then get the tune. I would say rock the z32 because it has future potential. The 20 MAF maxes kind of quick. But if you find yourself in need of a 20 MAF i have a mint one id sell you. will the safc account for the z32 maf? Because i know with just the stock ecu, the z32 maf makes it run lean.

Yeah. I was just going to add the spacer on the bar and then make end links but im too low. So eventually ill go custom bar. But for now i manage. That's what im running. with a z32 maf, the itb's and 25 turbo. Its a carl H tuned ecu.9 You need to run a resistor or youll fry the ecu. Im using one from an acura legend. You can use the stock rb26 one, but the legend one is easy to find.

Le me be first to say congratulations on the start of the project! Looking forward to seeing more. I've done the same thing. RB20 into a '76 280Z. I went a little crazy though in mine: RB26 intake and ITB's and RB25 internals little pricey. But all in all its a good swap. Put some 440's in there and she screams. If you want A/C though don't slam your car to the ground. Mine is running sectioned struts and ground control coilovers spun all the way down and I only have about 2 inches until the chassis is on the ground. The problem I had in trying to add A/C was that (at least with my mckinney mounts. cant speak for the stock mounts. I'd assume they would be about the same) the stock bracket for the A/C hangs down exactly where the front sway bar is. So unless you get a custom bar, it is in the way. I thought I could just add a 1 inch spacer in to space the bar down out of the way of the bracket, and if the car wasn't slammed I'd be good. The only problem is that the bar gets spaced down so far that it then hits the lower a-arm. Eventually I'll switch to a custom bar, but for now I manage. Just dont drive it when it's too hot out. Ha. Nice to see others doing the 20 swap!

So I have my RB swap almost running. Everything is wired up and all the hard stuff done. Now I'm just checking grounds and capping unused vacuum and water lines. My question is where does this water line go? I know on the RB25 this line goes to the turbo. All my lines are hooked up on the turbo so I'm lost. This is the line (with the red arrow)

I am in need of an S30 passenger side headlight bucket. We were pulling my Z up a hill and I neglected to grab my key. Long story short, steering lock went on and I hit my lifted blazer and messed up the stock bucket. Glad it was just the bucket and not anything more expensive. Thanks.

This is cool! It's not often that you see an RB swapped S130.

Yeah, that's probably what I'm going to have to do. I'm going to start searching now. Thanks for your help.

My intake has the diameter of what looks like the blue topped sensor but the harness has the plug of the yellow/red sensors. So I think I just have a weird RB intake.

The thread diameter and pitch are the exact same on both. The only difference between them is the bottom "sensor" piece. In that case, the yellow one is wider. Same style plug, but still has threads that are too small for my intake.

Here are the pictures of the stock RB plug (yellow) and the one from an SR20 (that was supposed to work)(blue). I saw that information; the sensor fit for the air intake temp hole, but it does not fit on my coolant temp location. That's what makes me think my intake is weird...

So I'm nearing the end of my RB install and I am need of this sensor. I have an RB20 fitted with an RB26 intake; ITB's and all. My problem is that when I bought this intake, it lacked the coolant temp sensor for the ECU. The one for the gauge from my 20 fit fine in the location (the small one) but the one for the ECU (big one) is too small. I've been reading around and I've seen that ones from sr20's and ka24's fit. None of them do; they all just slide down in the hole. So my question is where can I get a sensor that fits my intake? Or do I just have some weird style RB26 intake? What happens with the sensors (they dont thread in; they just slide down as the diameter of the threads are too narrow). -Charles

The hardest part for me was the sway bar. If you use all the stock RB mounts and compressor and all, you need to add a 1 inch spacer in the mount of the bar with shorter end links because the tensioner bracket and pulley occupy the exact same space as the middle of the sway bar.

So I've been researching a lot of different write ups and haven't found a definitive answer. So I'm installing an RB20 into my 1976 280Z. I have a lot of the wiring figured out, but whenever it comes to these plugs the write ups I've found get sort of vague. I'm just wondering what I need to do with these plugs: (this is on the passenger side of the car) (and the one on the drivers side) Thanks! Want to get her on the road!

I have one out of my 76 if that works. Im not sure if they're the same though.

If your still in need, I have a full RB20 fuel rail with injectors and all. -Charles

I was just wondering if anyone had one of these? They don't make them in reproduction and I want to get the original metal one. Mine was all rusted, so if anyone has one let me know. Thanks.

Im not sure those will work. I've read somewhere that those do swap in, but you run into a problem with the hydraulic lifters. You have to like collapse them and you may run into problems and it could be potentially bad. Just what I've heard. I did think about it though.

Poop. They're such a random thing that most people don't have them; that and there aren't to many redtops this side of the world.