R3VO 3VOM

I know there are aftermarket ones out there (like the one from ZCC) for around $500. So I'd say it would be right around there because if it were higher, someone would just go buy the aftermarket one unless they were looking at doing an OEM restoration or wanted a pure OEM car.

Man, all these RB26's make me jealous. Ha. I just couldn't turn down a 20 for $700 with everything and I didn't have another car at the time to put it in at the time.

Now that looks cool. Hopefully it starts and runs. May not make a lot of power because the compression ratio will be low and cams being tuned for a turbo and boost, but that all can all be fixed. Either way, looking nice!!

Heres mine. From Riverside in Japan. Now all I need is to clean them up and get tires mounted. Need to order some wide ZG's to fit these!

I've got one! Ha. (in addition to my '76) Trying to get her running now. Seems no matter what she doesn't want to run right. I've tried 5 different ECU's and 2 o2's and they all make her run differently; not perfect but some better than others. Just ordered a maf so hopefully that will get her running correctly. Fully refinished interior, digital dash, lowering springs, header and full exhaust. nothing much else. Side note: I went to a junkyard in the NC mountains and found a complete turbo model sitting up there. Complete from trans to head to oil cooler. If anyone is close and wants to make the trip its at a place called "Rustys pic-a-part". Kinda cool; only one I've ever seen in a junkyard ever.

Here's mine when it first went in before I cleaned it up. It's only a 20; I've never seen another with a 26 intake and ITB's in person paired with a 25 turbo like mine.

That is soo awesome. Can't say I've ever seen a setup like that before.

I got sucked into that "might as well" thing when I did my swap. Haha. I have read the same thing about the lifters. Those are super pricey; I think Tomei ones are like $450 for the set. But if you swap over to those you might be able to get away with RB26 cams for a while; I know that they have larger lift and such. But again you'd run into the problem of being tuned for a turbo motor and not an n/a motor. There must be custom cams like kelford or something out of AUS for an n/a RB; I know they are everything RB over there.

I have both pairs in working order out of my '76. I'd like $45 plus shipping.

I have the turbo with no shaft play if you want it still

I might be able to score you some. There's a junkyard here that has a 260Z (at least a week ago there was). I'm stopping in this weekend; I'll check and grab these if theyre still there. They were complete when I was there. If they are still there do you want anything else from them?

Yeah. I knew it was 2 cams. But I was just thinking that it happened to also be a 2 liter. I think the bottom ends are the same to my knowledge. I havent looked too much into the RB20DE's (theres not nearly as much out there for them easily available like there is for the DET's). But if you got it for super cheap, I'd say just swap out the pistons and go from there; people push 400+hp through the stock bottomends (I've seen 500 but that was for pure dyno and drag runs; longevity im sure was in question) so I think the stock bottom should hold up. We have to remember about the cost aspect referenced in the first post. Unless you have another car to put the 20 in after you got finished with the mock up, I'd say run with it. The question is though are the heads different? I know that on the SR20, the cc in the heads are different sizes between the DE and DET. But like I said, there isnt a whole lot out there on the RB20DE unless you really look. More is out there for the RB25DE, but still isnt a lot. Depending on your cost now, you can either get some custom cams done or source some red top cams. I know that they are a "hotter" profile than the stock silver top cams, but again, this is in the turbo variation. I'm unsure of the profile on the DE cams.

Although the 2 didnt stand for 2 liter wasnt the engine of the 432 a 2 liter? Wasnt it the s20?

I love the use of the stock housings. I did the same thing when I installed my autometers. Just makes the install so smooth. Love the air vent gauge too!

Just measured. Got the same; 10 inches to spare to the tower.

Doesnt it depend on the engine mounts used? I have mckinney mounts and it seems to lay the engine over a little more than stock. But i never installed with the stockers. I have a 20; id assume they would be close to the same. I can take it when i get home.

I couldn't say for certain. You might need to contact Carl H. He tunes RB ECU's and is all over a lot of forums; he could probably answer this question no problem. I would say if I were to do this, I'd try to keep all the sensors (minus like idle air bypass and stuff like that with a jumper across the points maybe?) so that the ECU doesn't read an open circuit or a non-existent sensor.

If I remember correctly the magazine I saw the carbon z in said it had around 300hp. Nothing crazy, but it was coming from a 26/30. 30's have that extra liter of displacement; ive never driven a 30, but i hear they are quite torquey. Im sure you could boost it up as with any n/a engine. High comp pistons, big jet carbs and stuff like that. Just do you need it is the question.

When I mounted my corbeaus I modified the sliders from a foxbody mustang (got them with the seats out of a stang). Ive seen people use the stock z sliders/mounts depending on what model seats you have (some don't sit right, like mine, to do that). Ive read that the brackets those companies sell for the s30 make the seats ride really high, but I havent used them so I cant speak on that.

Id say definitely make some measurements for yourself and go look at custom wheel websites for the info on backspacing and offset. They usually have diagrams that show exactly what the difference is. Ill have to post my wheels later. I have like 16x9's with some crazy backspacing im going to run on mine.

I was thinking about this today. It woulnd't be "that" hard. The real factor would be how cheap you could get the carbs for and how much fabrication do you want to do. Tripples aren't cheap in any sense. You could get a motorset like this: http://www.ebay.com/...1dd8ffd&vxp=mtr For the intake, you could do something like I was going to do before I realized the holes on my 26 intake lined up. Take the stock lower intake and cut it down (the runners would probably have to be shorter since runner 1 kicks up higher at the length I have them than the rest), get some flanges made that match the carbs and bolt them on. this way you keep the coolant sensors. You'd need the plug the fuel injector holes and figure out a throttle linkage. The other problem would be the spacing of the runners and the spacing on the carbs; if the runners will line up with the carbs or not.

I dont have much say in this aspect as im an RB transplant, but i researched turbo swaps for a while. Whats wrong with buying a stock manifold? Unless you want to do custom its probably easier to just get like an n42 non-egr intake or something.

I have the mckinney stuff in my '76. Cant complain on the engine mounts. They were awesome. I had to mod the transmount to fit and use the stock speed sensor.

The RB carb thing has been done before with rock auto and their "carbon" Z on an 26/30 hybrid. Im not really sure how they did the ECU/ignition stuff though since they ditched some of the sensors. Cool concept but im not sure the cost is justified. I have a 20 with 26 itb's in my z and the preliminary costs seem cheap but then the parts prices just start piling up. The adapter/spacer flange alone wouldve cost $1,000 if i didnt work at a place i can get metal.

I just used the one from mckinney motorsports. Very well done and can be ordered with an electric fan that plugs into the stock wiring. Quite a large one.