R3VO 3VOM

Yeah, I was about to say those look like the works fender flares. aritaspeed is the place to go for those. You need an aggressive wheel/tire fitment to run those.

Well said my friend.

S2000. I'm 6'4" and I fit fine; great for road trips. I'm on the thin side, but I have a buddy who is a huskier fellow and he drives one and loves it. He's about 6'.

Yeah. I heard that they were bringing the Datsun brand back in certain countries as a lower end Nissan.

Of course. You are not the only one to like this look. I just prefer the clean look. But here it is! http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt73726/pd1751867/_IMSA___3_PIECE_TAIL_

Did we really need this? Just trying to help others out on this forum. Why did you feel obligated to post this? This isn't zilvia. Anyway, I'd be interested to see someone do a chrome wrap. To see how it looks.

I'm in the same boat. I have some fiberglass bumpers and I want to chrome them to match all the trim on the car. interesting ideas....

Definitely a nice 240Z. Liking the RS watanabes

I just sent him a message through Ebay. I got inspecting, and technically building the lenses how I intend may or may not put the main bulb behind the amber insert a little too far over, but no way to tell until I get the inserts. I studied the replica lenses and it seems that the housing angles the bulb a little towards the inside (more behind the amber insert) as opposed to what I'm doing where it just points straight.

Yep. That's exactly what I'm doing with my spare set. Have a set of replica amber inserts being shipped from the same ebay seller mentioned earlier in the thread. $30 shipped from Austrailia. So once I get those I'll get a set of clear lenses and it'll be complete. The hardest part about the lense inserts is that they stick out into the extruded lense (as you can see from that ebay stores replica ones) so that's why I decided to just buy them instead of going through the trouble to build that part.

It's not harmful necessarily like it would be with an N/A in the sense that after the turbo you want no back pressure as possible; you dont need the pressure for exacuation purposes. However, that head on the components wouldn't be necessarily a good thing. But you have a ZX, don't you have the stock heat sheid protecting the booster and master?? Why not just fab your own? Get one of those flanges off ebay and some pipe and weld one up?

Well my word of advice, which I'm sure you know by now, is don't get the generic ebay ones. I've heard horror stories about those. Some wear out instantly due to the shaft imbalance from the manufacture that was never addressed. Others shatter sometime down the road for no reason. Some work out fine, but most of the things I've heard about them is the bearings wear out really fast on them if no mishaps occur. But back to what you were saying, why upgrade? why not rebuild the stock one? I'm rebuilding a T04E and have done 1 other turbo before. As long as you source a good rebuild kit you can do it. Unless the wheels have scored the housing and such. Then it's a little more involved. But its all doable. Are you looking for more power?

Youll find parts for this thing super easy. They mod s14/s15 SR's all the time. May have to pay for shipping, but you will be able to find parts easily. You said the turbo and such were gone. Do you get the wiring harness with it? If not it's an okay deal. Otherwise it's good. If it came with everything that would be like the deal of the century.

I might be able to get you one from a junkyard car too.

It's a Precision T04E. I'm debating keeping it but I'm not entirely sure yet. It's a oil cooled unit. I have an RB20 with RB26 ITB's, RB26 intake, RB25 turbo, 440cc injectors, z32 maf, and a carl H tune. I'm told if I source some redtop cams and pop on a holset (or my T04E. little overkill but will do the job) turbo, I'm good for 450-ish hp at the crank with the correct tune. So I feel yes parts will do it, but with a good tune you can get a lot out of those parts.

I always thought that it was the oil pumps on the early (like R32 series) RB26's that were a weak spot?

That's awesome. Should sell some if you have a mint set. I saw a set of split amber ones go for $950 :0 But yes. the US housings only have 1 bulb as OldAndyAndTheSea said. However, there is a spot that looks like a filled in socket on the back. I had a spare set of backs laying around so I figured I'd build a set. Is there like a divider inside to separate the 2 bulbs from one another?

You should buy my turbo; Its big. haha. But in all seriousness, you should decide what power goal you are looking for then build your spec sheet around that. Make sure that before you install it get the factory nissan seal kit and put them all in with a new timing belt since its not in the car to make your life easier down the road and make it more reliable than however old seals and timing belt. Before power though I'd say try to work out your chassis (for the auto X'ing). Brake pads, suspension, tires, etc. That's where I'd start. Then add power. But the parts you've listed sound good for a nice mild build. Make sure you size your injectors for your power goals and fuel pump flow rate.

I guess I stand corrected. I never saw that thread before. But either way, back to what JohnC said, the bounciness is still because of the overall quality, of which Megan is not the top of. Not saying their bad, just saying they are not the best.

The point of coilovers (not in the new "Hellaflush" movement) is to provide dampening adjustability and full spring adjustment (preloads, bounce, rebound, etc.). Ride height adjustability is just something that comes with all this. Now however, there are companies that build coilovers for the pure purpose of lowering the ride height of a car. However, coilover spring rates are usually sized for a cars weight. But since these are so close in weight (unstripped S30 and S13) I think the spring rates don't really need to be considered. I think it all comes back to what JohnC said about them and that the bouncyness is because of the quality overall of the base coilovers, in this case Megans.

Electrical on any of these older cars is actually quite simple if you track down the manual with the foldout pages and such. I found mine online for my Z. I'm not big on wiring either, but once you look at a diagram for it for a while it's easy. But megasquirt is a very good EM system.

I never saw anything about the valving, but I may be wrong. What I think is meant by the Mckinney/Megan thing is the collars on the bottom mounting it to the car are from Mckinney and the coils are from Megan. But either way, arent the S13 and S30 around the same weight? I own both and they feel just as "heavy" when I'm driving. Not saying it's not bouncy or anything, but if they are near the same weight why would they revalve them? I think they mod them to fit their tubes and stuff. But again, I do not know. I have ground control coils and sectioned struts. But interesting issue.

I see on their website that for each coilover option (tubes to weld on, full kit, or kit with hats) there is a mention of them using Megan S13 coils.

It's on Ebay, but: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Nissan-Skyline-RB20DE-RB20-GTS-t-NEO-6-R34-Engine-Motor-180SX-240SX-/330901015422?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0b3ccb7e&vxp=mtr ORRRRRR (not to pull a shop here. But It's what I'd do. Now that I think about it I really sound like one of those shops you've talked to. Ha) you could do a 25de and put a 20 center cover on so people would think it was a 20 but still get the power of a 2.5: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKYLINE-GTS-JDM-RB25DE-ENGINE-RB25DE-ENGINE-LONGBLOCK-MOTOR-RB25DE-/251252072873?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7fca61a9&vxp=mtr

Like BluDestiny said, just get a KA 5 speed trans. You can find them easily with the engine usually for around $400 for both from some S13 guy who pulled the entire thing to do an SR20 swap. Unless you had a T5 from a turbo model, in which case I'd assume that was stronger, but Im not entirely sure. As for Mckinney stuff, you get what you pay for. They are expensive but their quality is definitively one of the best out there. I have an RB kit in my Z and it was awesome. As for the swap in general, definitely do your searching. Find out what you want out of the car. Most of the time, the L28 will be more than powerful enough with a turbo conversion. But if you're set on a KA swap, or just doing something different, look at S chassis forums (zilvia and such) and find turbo builds and the sort of stuff they needed to make the power that they are. For the swap into a Z chassis, search here. There is a lot of useful info on this forum.