Z-Gad

Sounds great You do fine work sir

Agreed, -10an is overkill for 600 hp... just stating what I had installed...was making a little more than 600 though

Oh, BTW, I ran a -10AN line from the pump to the engine bay, splitting in a Y to 2 -8AN lines, feeding each end of the fuel rail, with a -6AN return line in the center of the rail.

I believe that is primarily carbureted engines where you should run the same size or larger return and can run into backpressure in the return line. High HP EFI engines will not have the same issue, as you won't see 40+ psi on thje backside of the regulator.. Typically one size smaller line from the feed is how you'll see forced induction EFI engines run, though you won't want to run smaller than a -6 if running a -6 feed. regards, Mike

Didn't notice any difference in steering input with the swap. What will make steering easier is to ensure all the ball joints and tie rod ends are in good condition and well greased...

Sure ...

Have not taken it to the dyno...I have had success in the past, just tuning the car at the track... Unfortunately for me this time, the laptop was not cooperating and no WIFI was available. I could not re-download the Java software at the track, and MS Tunerstudio would not work without it. Since I could not access the software, I had no idea what the car was doing and could not make any adjustments... <sigh> Cam is a little different than most guys use...Though specs are not far off from the usual LS1 turbo cams 224/232 .590/.590 @114 TU1 225 225 .581 .581 113 TU2 236 236 .587 .587 112.5 I came home, brought the laptop inside, re-downloaded Java, and everything works again. I should've checked it before I left, but have never had anything like that happen before...stupid computers...

Well, a nice 60* Saturday allowed me to bring the car out for some test passes at Mason/Dixon Dragway. I get to the track, tech in, and go to hook up the laptop to get some datalogging data from my runs, and the laptop will not communicate with the MegaSquirt ECU! It says Java is not installed on the computer...I havent accessed the MegaSquirt software in months, but I just can't understand how Java could just disappear from my computer... After nearly an hour of screwing with the computer, I took it out of the car and threw it off to the side in frustration. It always has to be something doesn't it... So I figured I would go ahead and make a few test runs on the safe, pump gas, street tune that was in the car at wastegate pressure of 9-10 psi, even though I could not datalog (to see what the air/fuel, timing, rpm, etc was doing), nor make ANY changes to tune the car. I made 4 runs, and all were nearly the same... Best pass leaving off the footbrake (no transbrake installed) 60' ... 1.572 330 ... 4.489 1/8 ... 6.924 MPH .. 100.81 1000 .. 9.032 1/4 ... 10.82 MPH .. 126.33 Although I was not overly excited about the numbers the car ran (was spoiled by the 2JZ), it pulled smoothly through the RPM range and did not break-up nor hesitate (best part of the day). I saw a/f ratios on the wideband gauge between 11.2 and 11.4 (still a little rich, but safe). More to come as the weather improves ...

Speedhut Revolution gauges are great. Speedo is GPS, so no worries as to how to get signal from the trans to the speedo... I fit the 4" speedo and tach inside the stock 240z housings, so they'd fit the stock location...I just removed the exterior glass to allow access to the buttons on the front of the tach and speedo..

Struggled with exhaust options too... ended up with a full 3" exhaust out the stock location that Y's off the 4" downpipe. The dp is capped for street driving, and has a v-band extension that transitions to an oval and exits in front of the pass side tire.. no cutting involved and the "best of both worlds" so to speak. I'll eventually add an electric cutout to open the 4" dp when I want to scare the occasional passer by LOL

Lookin good!! Good thing you found the weak rail... body will need the extra structure anyway with what you have in store for it!! BTW, nice job on the recirc... Personally, I like the wastegate vented to atmosphere...have had it that way on all of my turbo builds. It just sounds extra mean and nasty when WOT mike

Thanks for the offer Tom Funny, that wasn't the first offer i have had from friends to allow me to "store" my car at their place LOL I've gotta give Clark a call and do some catching up... Mike

76GTS was like an on/off switch around 5500 rpm's. As long as the rpm's were above 5500, it pulled HARD. below that, no so much. As for street driving, It was like a normal 6-cylinder until the boost kicked in. Engine was built for high rpm's, and i shifted around 8500. Below 5500, it was a bit of a dog, but if I was running the car hard, I wasn't running in the low rpm range. Header was a Greddy T88H manifold - 50mm runners, they also made a smaller runner manifold for the T78 and T88 kits - 45mm runners

My old setup, but Greddy T88H manifold and Precision 76-GTS turbo with 4" downpipe

LOL I have 10' ceilings, except that I had trusses made to vault up from 10' to 12' in 1/3 of the garage to accomodate a lift, not to mention the additional 12" of concrete where the posts will go I sold my 02 911 C4S last year to build it... already exhausted that money <sigh> I keep telling myself it'll be worth it next winter when I have more room to work...

Thanks for checking in Just waiting for the spring thaw... Construction of a 30x40 3-bay garage/workshop is taking up my time now...too many cars, not enough bays ... LOL Did have it out a bit last week when the temps rose into the mid 40's (car doesn't have heat)...seems to be all good, but at 10 psi of boost, the street tires are useless in any gear for more than 1/4 throttle. Mike

Thanks James, always good to hear from you I have the exact same type coils and EMS that Scottie is running with no issues whatsoever with spark. I am running NGK BKR7EF plugs, and regapped them today to .020 Although I am not setup to read EGT's, I do not see any significant differences when reading the plugs... All that being said, I swapped valve springs this weekend, and immedaitely noticed a more crisp throttle response. It is difficult to tell from the butt dyno, but it definately feels stronger, and really did not feel the drop in performance I was feeling before. That being said, I only had a few minutes this morning to take the car for a test drive, datalog, and do a few hits. Controlling the wheelsping is difficult and it is almost impossible to stay in the throttle in first or second and with the 2.94 gears, third is unattainable on the backroads. Being the end of November, my opportunities to test the car at the track are limited, but hear that it may be open for the last time next weekend. Gotta say, I am feeling optomistic about it though. Thanks to all that have responded... I appreciate it Mike

Do you have room for a full 4" exhaust, or will you be dumping out the side? We couldn't fit a 4-incher between the engine mounts and the starter, and still notched the frame rail slightly, just to squeeze a 3-inch between the rail and the starter... BTW, impressive fabrication skills... Really like the high tech scribing device

More learning curve for me... Bought a set of Lunati dual valve springs to install, as well as a recommended Proform LS1 "head on engine" valve spring compressor. Well, I found that my aftermarket Warhawk heads have more casting material and will not allow the use of the special $70 LS1 valve spring compressor I bought. Then, after 2 days of trying to support the valves with 2 different types of rope, and then some rubber vacuum line (always worked great on the ole L-series), and then rope again, I finally caved and hooked up the compressed air to hold up the valves in the seats. Wish I would've done that in the beginning. So I remove the keepers and springs from the #1 cylinder, pull the valve seals and spring seat, only to find my dual valve spring seats will not fit my heads either. The ID of the spring seat is too small for the OD of the valve guide. Apparently the Beehive springs use a wider ID diameter seat, so all of the guides would have to be machined to allow a dual valve spring to be used... GRRRR, another $250 wasted on the valve spring kit... So, i ordered yet another set of valve springs today ... PAC 1519's Can't do anything with it until Friday, so I'll have to stew until then <sigh> If anyone is interested in a slightly used valve spring tool and a new set of .660 lift Lunati dual valve springs, I have a for sale ad on LS1tech I'll offer an additional 10% to any HybridZ'ers. I hate wasting money...

Sweet!! When mounting the turbo up front looks like you are going the same direction we had to go with my car... rad and intercooler more forward and removing the lower rad support, as well as using 2 of the pass side truck manifolds flipped... Looking good!!

Thanks for the recommendations. I had it out today and was able to do some spirited back road driving... At 1/4 throttle, the fall off in power is minor, in fact, the car feels significantly faster at 1/4 throttle than at 1/2 or even full throttle... You guys may be on the right track to look at the springs. If the springs arent strong enough to pull the valves back into place quickly with the additional boost pressure on the back side of the valve (essentially floating the valves open longer than they should), then it stands to reason it could cause the symptoms I am getting... BTW, Plug gap is .025, I doubt I am blowing out spark, but again a good suggestion.

Thanks for all the replies guys... I am using a set of Comp Cams Beehive springs with LS6 lifters and LS2 lifter trays. The springs are supposed to be good for .600 lift... My cam is .595 lift... The power struggle begins around 4700 rpm's, after the turbo is spooled. It's no longer breaking up, after i reduced the dwell on the coils (MS3 EMS). It's just struggling to make rpm's. I've added 4 degrees of timing, and then backed off 4 degrees of timing with no change. I have been in Canada for training the last few weeks, so haven't had any time to play with it. Once I get my ox out of the ditch, I'll install a trigger wheel on the front of the crank pulley and eliminate any crank sensor issues. As far as the exhaust choking it down, maybe a little with the full exhaust, but it acts the same even when the 4" dump is connected. Last combo was 2JZGTE, this is my first V8 turbo Again, I appreciate the suggestions, and I'll keep the updates coming as I work through it. Mike

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/4133500570.html Hi Nick, try this guy ...

No appreciable updates. Car runs great into boost. I can feel the spool up, it starts pulling HARD, and then kind of noses over and feels like it struggles through the rest of the RPM range. Datalog doesn't show anything strange (timing is stable, a/f ratio, boost, etc all normal). I replaced the LS1 truck coils with a new set of truck coils, with no change. Next i am going to put a trigger wheel and crank sensor pick up on the crankshaft damper, eliminating any potential problem with the stock pickup (whenever I have the time). Winter is coming, and I am buried under other projects, so I don't expect much progress until the spring. Meanwhile, I'll continue driving it around on nice days, until I can figure out the loss/lack of power, then I'll take it back to the track and get some numbers out of it...

Pic of burnout shows LS1 intake... so fuel injected Nice 60' mike