AleksS30

I have experimented with this aswell and I now have my vacuum advance going to manifold vacuum on my L28 with SU's. I like the part throttle behavior of the motor much better using manifold vacuum. I recently did some reading about this and came across an interesting read. About half way down there is a long post which explain's it all http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/vacuum-advance-hooked-up-directly-manifold-bad-47495.html

I used Hastings piston rings in my L28 without any issues. Not sure about the napier ring though.

A random photo of my z beside my buddy's truck.

Here's my 71 Z.

I recently swapped in a 3.90 R200 into my 240z and to my surprise it was very smooth and quiet. I did notice the pinion seal leaking quite badly so I decided to replace it. I searched and read multiple posts regarding the pinion nut torque because I was nervous about the bearing preload. I decided to follow the fsm and torque it to 140ft/lbs. Before I took the nut off I marked the nut and the pinion shaft so I can use that as reference when I re-install the nut. I torqued the nut to 140ft/lbs and noticed that the mark i put on the nut was about a 1/4 turn past the mark on the pinion shaft (1/4 turn tighter than it was originally). Now the issue I have is that I'm getting a humming sound from the rear end. It sounds just like a bad wheel bearing. I'm assuming this has to do something with the pinion nut being a 1/4 turn too tight? My understanding it that these diff's do not use a crush sleeve to set pinion preload? I'm not too sure what to do from here...replace pinion bearings? any help would be appreciated.

The ride height looks great! Can you post details of the installation and what is involved? cutting? welding? etc... and maybe some pictures of the strut assembly?

I had this same problem with a remanufactured 240sx rear caliper. I noticed my left side caliper was tight and the right side i could move slightly. It turned out that the piston was seized and these calipers were only about 4 months old.

I'm running a zx 15/16 master with toyota 4 piston brakes in the front and 240sx disks in the back. I installed the master the way i got it without removing the check valve and I have a nice firm pedal. You do however need to adjust the rod in the brake booster when bolting up the zx master.

I just re measured my lash pads with a micrometer this time and they are indeed the factory pads. I got anywhere from .118 to .121 since the oem lash pads have the dish on the bottom, will I be able to run aftermarket flat bottom lash pads with the oem retainers?

ok I'm a little confused here, I measured my lash pads and got .160 which is not factory so I assumed the head that I bought may already have a regrind cam in it so I measured the base circle and I have 1.308 which is factory spec. I have never run this head, I bought this P79 to do "the .080 mod" and the cam is the only thing I have left to do to it. The wipe pattern on the rocker arms are perfect which doesn't make sense for a stock cam using .160 lash pads. The only thing I can think of is maybe at one point this head had an aftermarket cam in it which was removed but the lash pads were left in place and a factory cam was put in place? What do you guys think? Also my .160 lash pads have a dish on the bottom, do you measure lash pad thickness from the dish or from the outer flat surface?

I just measured my lash pads and they happen to be 0.160 They actually range from 0.160 to 0.1635 Typically with a cam that has a smaller base circle do you go with a thicker lash pad or thinner lash pad? I'm going to say thicker but I'm not sure.

thanks for the reply's guys. So would you suggest that I install the new cam with my factory lash pads, set my valve lash (cold specs) and check the wipe pattern on the rocker arms? Does the wipe pattern have to be perfectly centered on the rocker arm or can it be offset a little?

I have done soo much reading about this topic I just can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for. I'm looking to buy a regrind cam from Web cams. I spoke to a sales person and he told me the factory base circle is 1.305in and the regrinds use a 1.280in base circle. That's a overall difference of .025 divide that by 2 and you have a difference of .0125 at the lash pad. Now here's my question, I can't seem to find a replacement lash pad with that small of an increment over the factory size, would I be able to get away with using the factory lash pads in this case? My understanding is the stock lash pads are about .120 so according to this cam grind, I would need a .0125 thicker lash pad which works out to .1325 I'm still a little confused about this so If I'm totally wrong here please someone correct me!

I looking for a oem single row crankshaft dampner to use on my L28.

My 71 240z with original L24/E31.

Nice write up! I have purchased a few items from Edan aswell, he's a great guy to deal with! Is there anyone else other than modern motorsports that make brackets for the S13 calipers?

I'm running Hasting's piston rings on my L24 I rebuilt this past summer, if I recall I paid about $55 from my local machine shop.

I'm looking to buy a set of .080" cam tower shims for my P79 head. I would prefer a one piece .080" shim rather that stacking multiple sets. If anyone knows where I can get a set of these please let me know. thanks.

Is it possible to do this conversion without welding in the camber plates? In otherwords, can you some how use the factory rubber strut mounts? Or modify them somehow to work?

the wheels are 15x7 +4 offset Rota RB's. The tires are 205/55/15 Empire....I don't drive the car very often so the chances of seeing it around town are slim.