jimzdat

While I don't agree with the way the idea was brought up (Ron brings up some good points about tact and the "right way" to address issues); I think it may be a good concept. It is different than what is shown at the bottom of threads now ( the similar threads list) - instead, it adds a button on the "Post new topic" screen which allows for a quick search to see if similar topics have been posted. I know it is in use on TDIClub forums (also running vbulletin), so it may be an easy addition. Here's a screenshot of where the button would end up:

IIRC, you almost HAVE to buy them from a Swagelok supplier, unless you happen to find them on eBay or some such place - I don't think Grainger or McMaster sell them? Have you tried a supplier search at http://www.swagelok.com just for good measure? If nothing else, it will at least get you the Swagelok part number, then you can try searching for those

Dang, wish I had seen this a couple weeks ago - we just got back from Sturgis We actually went out a week early, ended up making a side trip out to Yellowstone on the bikes - all total, put down about 2000 miles in less than 2 weeks We were out at the "Chip" - that place was downright packed

If it's anything like mine was, it has a lot to do with all the circuitry involved in the fuel pump: First there is the microswitch in the AFM (closes when the AFM sees flow) - mine was bypassed by cutting those 2 wires and splicing Then it all has to trigger the fuel pump relay (mine was under the passenger seat, so I imagine that's fairly common) - mine worked, but I've seen a couple where the AFM switch was bad, so the relay wouldn't close; rather than troubleshoot and repair properly, most people trace the circuit as far as the passenger side relay and just jumper it out somehow Not the best way to do it, but I guess it works?

Stock L28 head? IIRC, the manifold for the carbs isn't going to seal right due to the reliefs cut into the head for the injectors - but I could be wrong?

Need to get him one of these: http://www.sawstop.com

Have you looked at the wiring on a modern car lately? 20-22 AWG wire is the norm for many things these days--electrical loads aren't what they used to be I guess? The EZWiring harnesses are all either 14 or 16 AWG (can't remember for sure)--probably a lot heavier than it really needs, but what the heck. And while building your own with bulk wire gives you exactly what you want, I'll spend the little extra for the benefit of all the multicolored wire and markings to follow circuits with. I don't see it on their site anymore, but EZWiring used to make an "all black" harness--everything was still labeled, but all wires were black--marketed it to streetrodders who wanted a nice clean look

http://www.ezwiring.com Their most expensive harness is under 200 - and that gets you a 21 circuit harness I've installed 3 of them now, and no complaints Similar to the Painless (wires all labeled every few inches), without the pain in the wallet

Rear hatch is considerably larger, as is the glass--so unless you have a weatherstrip stretcher/shrinker, it aint gonna work Not sure what the exact difference is on the windshield, but I think it has to do with the exact angle of the roofline, since it is so much "flatter"

sounds like a pretty decent price; I paid 1100 for my Millermatic 210 about a year ago (brand new price) Should work fairly well for what you need, just remember to NOT try and run a long, continuous bead on a body panel--you WILL warp it all to hell and back

Basically all you will need to do (on the above diagram) is connect terminal 87 to the fuel pump hot wire, and 86 will be "ignition hot"--that will cause your pump to run whenever the key is on. That said, it will actually be overriding a safety feature--many people will install a "snap switch" in the circuit that needs to see positive oil pressure to complete the circuit--that way if engine dies, no more fuel pumping out. IIRC, the original AFM has a small switch inside that keeps the fuel pump from running unless there is flow going through it--if you manually open the flapper, it will complete the circuit

You should be good to go--the cars are essentially identical from the firewall forward, and many of the parts on the interior can be used (dash, etc) Doors are of course different, as well as the hatch Rear end should essentially be a bolt in, but I don't remember for sure--I'm sure someone can chime in with more info

Try this diagram (designed for basic "Bosch" style relays--the square ones most commonly available) Just substitute "Fuel pump" for "Horns"

Actually, Jegs has 2 different kits, one of which is designated for a '78 2+2: Jegster 942604K - Jegster ''Datsun'' Roll Cage Kits 4 and 8 point roll bars manufactured from 1-3/4'' x .134-wall mild steel tubing 10 and 12 point roll cages manufactured from 1-5/8'' x .134-wall mild steel tubing Includes 6'' x 6'' x 1/8'' mounting plates Some tube ends in some kits are notched while most tube ends are not notched for a better custom fit in your particular set-up. This ''extra material'' provides you some leeway for a great fit and easier installation. 8, 10, and 12 point cages exceed NHRA and IHRA standards Complete, easy-to-follow installation instructions included Welding required Datsun 2+2, 1978 550-942604K 10-Point Roll Bar Kit $224.99 I only know this because I currently have one of these kits in my garage, waiting for me to get off my butt and install it--I see no reason it won't fit the earlier 2+2 models, since the main difference was the raised false floor in the back Jim

I found it hard to see that pic, but I assume the mil-spec CPC are like the old "cannon plugs" I'm used to seeing on aeroderivative gas turbines? I am pretty sure you can get those from Digi-Key--they sell to the public, and no minimum order http://www.digikey.com

Weird, cause they were advertising the same thing down there? Wonder if they were just hoping to make a few $$$ off the internet ads, or if maybe there is another division of the company?

I found the commercials on local TV, as well as the billboards, when I was on a business trip to the Salem/Roanoke, VA area; so I think it's a different Suburban Auto Group

People who take something out of the freezer to "unthaw". People who ask you: "Can you borrow me 5 bucks?" Sure, who would you like me to borrow it from? Anyone who has to fix the "breaks" on thier car. Probably plenty more, give me time to think of them....

Honestly, it all depends on what it's worth to you. I also own a 76 2+2, bought it down in Chula Vista about 10 years ago--didn't run, minimal rust, had OK tires and a crappy paint job; had 80K miles showing on the odo. The lady was asking $300, but when I told her I didn't care if it was running, I'd buy it anyway; she dropped the price to $200 By the same token, I bought a running 74 2+2 in Kentucky 5 years ago, and paid a even $1000 for it; I cleaned it up, switched out the auto for a 5 speed, and put my rebuilt L28 in it. Drove it for 18 months then sold it for $1500 to a guy in Kansas (even delivered it to his door)

Well then I guess I'll just add mine into the mix: 2006 Dyna Wide Glide This pic is from last year, right after I got it home; it now has a windshield, saddlebags, Rinehart 2->1 exhaust, PCIII programmer, and an Arlen Ness Big Sucker intake

Well, I'm not at home,so can't get exact measurements, but here's a pic of the way I originally did mine (and it was WAAAAYY wrong) I lowered both ends ~8 inches, and now it's closer, but still not an exact balance--I'd say at the front, the pivot point is 3-4 inches below the top of the radiator core support Keep in mind, this is on a 2+2, so yours may need to be a little different

Well, I can't get into all the technical aspects since it's way over my head--see above posts for all that. I had the MSA system on my 74 and then also on my 76 (both 2+2 models)--I got pulled over more than once out in Commiefornia due to the obnoxious noise level--one cop compared it to a Cessna flying at 10 ft off the ground I ended up having it replaced with a single 2.5" pipe all the way to the back, then put a Supertrapp on it--made a world of difference, and got rid of the droning. Also made driving it a little nicer--no more defness after an hour This was on a non-stock engine; L28 stock bottom end, E31 head w/280Z valves, 460 lift/288 dur cam, triple webers, 6->1 header

You are most welcome--if you ever need something in particular, post it up--I'm sure someone here can take care of ya!

OK, I have 2 addys now, so that takes care of what I've got on hand--maybe if there is more interest, we can revisit the thread.....

Thank you, Louis for your service as well We will get a box headed your way--anything in particular you can think of that we can throw in on top of the other stuff?