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HybridZ

deMideon

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Everything posted by deMideon

  1. I am at the point of getting fuel line... I have a fuel cell so that is taken care of, so now I need to know what size line to get. I am going to be running about 450hp, but I want to make sure the line will support 600... cause ya never know what I will do to it down the road So what size is good? 1/2" is what I am thinking. What are your opinions? Also where is a good place to get it? Thanks!!!
  2. Where are you located? I may have an extra one.... I have to look around. Drop me an e-mail if you can't find one!
  3. Wow you're quick!! I am really glad to see I can use them without o rings!!! Thanks! Is the pro-copper the one or is the titan better?
  4. Ok... I discussed this before but now that I am ready to get my head gasket I've run into a problem.... well here's the background first... 400 block bored 40 over Scat 9000 crank, 400 mains, internally balanced, 3.5 stroke for 6" rods Scat 6" I beam rods w 7/16" bolts Keith Black 194 pistons 10.7:1 w/ 64 cc heads Canfield heads - 59.2 cc chambers Also going with the Crane 114681 cam.. Thanks Grumpy!! Now my problem, the deck is .018, so the SCE gasket I need is .032 to keep the quench within specs right?? The big problem is that the SCE copper gaskets require O rings. I would have to have the deck machined for those right? I would not be able to afford that. So what other options are there???
  5. Hehe nope none left, I put about 5 coats on it so it really took a lot. I had about 1 quart left but it was already mixed! Also for anyone that wants to know... the color is from a 1998 Ford! The number is M6852A/TV.
  6. Thanks everyone! Why yes I do have good taste! As far as the rims, the are Carrol Shelby I believe. Probably older ones... 16X7 though so they work great!
  7. Thanks! I really like the way it turned out! It's called Midnight Metallic Gray.. I believe it's a 1998 Chrysler color. If you want, I should be able to get the color number from the can!
  8. Wow I am done, and it turned out better than I expected! I do have some runs and crap in the paint. How do I get rid of it???? I put some pictures in my album under just painted (Follow the link in my sig!). I used Midnight Metallic Grey. I am so glad it's done! This is probably the last chance I had, since the weather will be going into the 50's and then down from there. Thanks for all of your help RacerX!!!!
  9. I was asked a while ago to post these, Finally I can!! Click on the link in my signature and go to the naked album!
  10. Bump.... anyone? helloooooo???
  11. I am almost ready to paint my car... and yeah it's only taken me about 2 months to strip it. I have to do it this week since it will probably be that last time it will get to 70 degrees. So I am planning on spraying 2 - 3 coats of primer / sealer. Then I will go over that with the surfacer.... do I need to do anything different??? Adjust the gun any differently? I only do one coat right??? Thanks for the advice!! And yes I will be posting nude photos of my Z when I am done sanding
  12. As my understanding goes (which therefore may very well be wrong!), the lightened flywheel will help in a V-8 Z, if you are willing to put up with the drivablity issue mentioned earlier, since it is so light of a car. There will be less energy stored in the flywheel at launch so the rear wheels won't break loose as easily relative to a heavy flywheel, and as mentioned it will accelerate quicker.
  13. I got the Weir because I want to use a "normal" flywheel and clutch, but also I want to use the S&S long headers and the stock T-56 slave cyl. bulge would get in the way!
  14. Yes I am planning to. I haven't completed strippiing yet, Had it loaded and was ready to scrape and got interrupted, so it all dried up! Hoping to get back to it today, work a bit slower and get it done.
  15. Thanks! I did get Triple Etch at NAPA, I really want to make sure I do this right. As I take off the paint I can see that whoever painted it last di primer / surfacer / sealer, but didn't prep the metal properly so there is a lot of little rust spots everywhere under the paint!!!
  16. Well I have 16X7 and am running 245/50/16. The best way to determine it is to look at the tire manufacturer's recommended rim widths. This will get you the widest tire (if that's what you want!), without having sidewall problems.
  17. Is there a certain amount (percentage) of acid that should be in a metal prep that will ensure it's effectiveness, or is it good enough if it just contains it?
  18. Thanks for the tips! I will be in a garage with the big door open so ventilation should be ok. I will be using gloves etc... especially eye protection. Thanks! By the way... I will be putting a phosphoric acid based solution on my car when its down to bare metal, is there a specific percentage I should be looking for?
  19. Cool! I should be able to find that! Thanks!!
  20. I've need to strip all the paint off of my 280. In a previous thread Orange Crush said he used Aircraft stipper by Krud-Kutter, now that I am doing this I can't find it!! My Pep-boys doesn't carry it and the Krud-cutter website doesn't list it So I need to find a really good paint stripper!!! Tried BIX marine and it did not work well.... any ideas??? Thanks!!
  21. Since I already have the handle... and can't afford a full set, I would appreciate you looking for me!!! Thanks!!
  22. I need to know the size of the threads on the stub axle. I need to get a die to clean them up and I can't find anything that tells me the size of it. I believe it's either an M18 or M20 with a 1.25 pitch. Anyo0ne know???? Thanks!!
  23. one thing to make sure of is that you body grounding is good! The connection should be in the engine compartment, passenger side, down by the frame rail around the strut tower! Just cleaning that up can make a difference!
  24. The differences between a sripped out 240 and 280 are pretty significant. The 280 has much heavier and more bracing than the 240. The frame rails etc all all much larger.
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