deMideon

An LSD is a limited slip differential. Basically a normal diff will spin one tire an LSD will spin both. That means with an LSD you get much better traction on the launch. As far as front sway bar, this guy makes custom sway bars for the Z at a reasonable price. http://sanerperffab.com/ Biggest ones I have been able to find!

Wow that guy does have a few opinions. It's too early for me to be able to really grasp that site though. On his kits do you have to bend the tubes? Think I'll wait and see if the S&S get made. I think I would be very interested in that. Please let us know!

I have a 73 240 and a completely disassembled 280. It really amazed me how much stronger the 280 is built. the sub frame is significantly larger and longer, and many more reinforcments in the uni-body!

Really! I would have thought angled would be better... I'm glad I asked. How hard is it to get them in or out. Does it make a difference? Thanks!!!

As I have never been into SBCs before I have never had this come up. So... I wanted to find out which I should go with... angle plugs or straight plugs. What are the drawbacks of each, what are the benefits? Thanks!!!

I am selling my L28 racing engine... so I figured I'd post here so if anyone is interested they can find it! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1806445335 Thanks!

Hmm think I'll go and pickup pop hot rod. It's probably got some good info!

Thanks for the ersponses... not what I was hoping for but it's better to find out before I spend the money! I am going with .120 for the main loop as that's what SCCA specifies.

Saw a little about this a few posts ago and got to thinking.... I saw a 12 ton pipe bender at www.northerntools.com part no. 14420 $89.99!!! They claim it will bend up to 90 deg. and up to 2" black pipe. Does anyone know how 2" black pipe compares to 1 5/8" .120 wall thickness seamless tubing? Will I be able to use this bender to make my cage??? Thanks!!

I recently bought a somewhat used sbc 377, my local rebuilder told me to check a few of the bearings to make sure the aren't scored or anything.. makes sense since I don't really know the condition of the engine. He said reusing the ARP bolts would be no problem , but I figured I'd ask here for a second opinion! Thanks!

I was wondering what everone thought of the different dyno sim software available. Are they accurate? Do they have alot of different parts available for the SBC? How easy are they to use? Thanks!

Does the cd include the wiring diagrams? I have access to a plotter and it would be very nice to print those out at 36" X 48" !! Thanks!

Right now in the driveline section of the forum there is a discussion on the u-joints in the half-shafts. I am also doing a 280Z shell. I don't know if it's the best solution, but with the larger size of the frame rails under the floorboards (vs the 240Z), I am just going to tie into those, into the rear subframe, and tie my rollbar into that. Once the weldings done, I am going to get the structural foam and fill all of empty areas of the frame rails side rails etc... to add additional rigidity. That way I won't have to add a cage! I think this will work and when I asked about it I didn't get any negative.... well or positive coments either... So Ima gonna try it!

Very cool! Thanks that's exactly what I needed to know!

Sorry if this has been done before, but I don't seem to be able to do a search right now! Anyway, I have a 280Z and am going to be using 1/2" wheel spacers, so I need to go to 1/2" longer wheels studs. My local NAPA can't figure out the correct size of the splines or the shoulder length. Does anyone know which studs I can use? Thanks!

I've been trying to find an air dam that follows the line of the front hood. All of the ones I've been able to find do not go out as far as the hood does. Except for the 280yz, but that goes out too far for me!!! Does anyone know of any that do? Thanks!

You're great grumpy! Thanks!! I was comparing them to the fast burn heads on the Sallee Chevy site you listed a while ago. The Dart's do flow well when ported, but the fast burn head sounds pretty good, that is if the production head flows at similar numbers. Pretty good price too!

Does anyone have the flow numbers for the new Dart Pro head? I haven't been able to find them anywhere. Thanks!

From what I understand the foams available from Home Depot etc are open cell and will absorbe water etc... They just aren't made for our application. Here's a link to the stuff that is. Quite a few different kinds too! http://www.autobodysupply.net/duramix_foam.htm

Another thing you may want to consider is the structural foam available from auto body supply stores. This stuff won't hold water (closed cells) and is made for use in cars, unlike the stuff from Home Depot. I am planning on getting some myself to fill all of the empty spaces in the spaceframe to help add stiffness to the body.

Well I did use PayPal.... I didn't think of asking here for someone to go take a look at it .. A little too late now. It's going to be here by Friday. I just hope the seller is honest about what's in it and the milage. Luckily for me my next door neighbor owns a engine rebuilding machine shop so I can have him look it over and get a good opinion of what I've got!

Woo-Hoo!! I knew there had to be somewher that sold alot of colors! Thanks!!!

Help!! I am rewireing my 280Z and I just can't justify the cost of a painless kit.. so I am going to do it the painful way! But, I cannot find a source for wire beyond the 6 or so plain colors. I would like to find the striped wires so I can have different colors for all of my circuits. Can anyone help? Thanks!!

Thanks!! I ended up getting it. Sounds like a very good deal. It is taking a chance though. I would have ended up spending more than that to get the same thing!

I was wondering if anyone could tell me if this makes sense, cause I don't. The 78 280 I am doing a conversion on has much heavier frame rails that go almost all of the way to the rear subframe. Much bigger and longer than my 73 240. Soo... here's what I am thinking... Just tie the rear of the frame rail into the rear subframe and then use structural foam to fill the frame rails and the rockers. Oh yea, before I fill them I will be tieing my roll bar into the frame rail and the rocker. Is this worth it? Will it provide significant stiffness? or should I just go for the full frame rail replacement route. Thanks!!!!