ttodhunter

Good info Clarkspeed! That seems to be where I'm hearing some noises, so I'll bump the values in that range and work my way back out of it. Lazeum- I checked the valve clearances after the initial warm up, but thanks for the reminder to check them again. Then I'll go finish up my JohnC style break in. New clutch is on it's way!

Took it out for a test drive last night and it's running pretty good. I think I ended up around 60% of the original fuel values, but I'm still running pretty rich. I adjusted the fuel in the driveway working through the rev range to about 4k, and slowly increased (guessing at) the values above that. Took it out on the road and did some 2nd gear accel/decel pulls, a couple in 3rd too, didn't make it to the freeway though. I am getting what I think is detonation around ~3500 with my foot in it, and also spinning the clutch . I'm going to try to get the timing dialed in better after work today- this is difficult because my hall sensor took the place of my timing indicator...

Engine started. Took me a while to get it to idle correctly, it's not pulling much vacuum (~10") and I had to pull a lot more out of the RPM fuel than I thought. Didn't get a chance to drive it because the slave cylinder was blown. Must have not put it back together correctly... Picking up a new slave after work and going to adjust the valves and maybe try again.

I'll finally be starting my 76' Z tonight (hopefully). It's been down for about 9 months since I lost oil pressure and found some metal bits in the oil pan. I decided to rebuild it (N/A L28) with some goodies- balanced bottom end, flat top +1mm pistons, had the head ported/polished and got a 270/280 .464 cam from Delta. Topped that off with some 265cc turbo injectors. After machining, the machinist calculated 9.9:1CR. I'm going to follow the break in theory of a warmup followed by 3rd gear pull/ coast down for 15-20 miles- then an oil change. My concern is that the new motor will be a little more prone to detonation and the Volumetric Efficiency (is that the correct term?) has changed. I have SDS fuel and coil pack ignition system, and had this running pretty well before the swap. My plan is to take the fuel values down to 70% of their current values due to the injectors, and take the timing back a couple of degrees across the board until I can get it dialed in. My question revolves around airflow- at different manifold pressures, I should be flowing ~20+% more air. I don't want to create a lean condition as I'm trying to break in the motor. I do have the mixture knob so I can make fairly instant changes if I see a lean condition. Does anyone have words of wisdom for tuning while trying to break in a motor with a new set of dynamics? Thanks!

Thanks for the reply. Tuning and break in is my next can of worms- but the injectors should be ok- whew.

Hey all, I'm in the process of putting my built N/A motor back in my 76. I figured with the expected power increase, I would put in the turbo 265cc injectors (running SDS efi). I bought a set from Autozone, and noticed that they didn't come with the pintle caps. Oddly, there doesn't seem to be a thread regarding upgrading from L28e to L28ET injectors, or what steps would need to be taken. There are a couple of threads relating to running with or without pintle caps, but with differing opinions. Here's a picture of the old vs. new: The injectors fit in the manifold fine, but I'm concerned about the purpose of the pintle cap and me not having them. Can anyone shed some light on what is needed to do this correctly? Thanks!

They're all going to be pretty close and on a stock ECM'd 280z, don't expect too much. My advice is, whichever one you get, weld in a bung for an O2 sensor.

Picture is missing?

Looks like it. I think that's per piston. You may be able to find them cheaper elsewhere on the interwebs.

The 240sx pistons have a much shallower pin height and are usually used with longer 240z con rods. Looks like the 370z is at 95mm (!), that would take a lot of machining... I'm having mine built right now with ITM +1mm flat tops.

Does anyone have any experience with this brand? They sell a stage 2 for under $200, but there is no torque rating. I'm very skeptical, but wondering if anyone can vouch for them. Thanks!

Good lunch video, thanks!

I'm pretty sure there are some differences between the 75/76 and 77/78 harness. I also believe that the ECU's are not compatible- which in my mind would confirm differences in wiring. One of the differences off the top of my head is the fuel pump relay: triggered by the AFM in the earlier and oil pressure in the later.

http://www.technoversions.com/ This page confirms everything you said above and he sells the swap kit. And he's in the Seattle area. There's a full writeup here http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion.htm. Good luck!

It's back!

Hmmm... So many possibilities. Is the O2 sensor heated/ heater wire hooked up? If the sensor isn't warmed up, it may give a false lean reading. If that's not the case, and it's definitely engine temperature related, you're right about the "table". That table is controlled by the coolant temp sensor which alters a circuit in the ECU which in turn adjusts injector pulse width and maybe opens the IAC. That said, there are three things to check out- CTS, ECU, IAC. My $.02.

You'll want a low pressure fuel pump. I don't think (could be flat ass wrong) that a FPR is the way to go. You'll have to do something with the PCV system as well.

The HVAC system is controlled by engine vacuum. As you move the lever, you should hear a momentary hiss as the vacuum pulls certain doors closed. If you move it back to "vent" and the hiss continues, there may be a broken vac line in the system that is causing a vacuum leak. There is also a vacuum line that goes through the firewall next to the battery; you could try clamping it and see if the problem persists.

Lots more info needed... If you pop the hood, can you see where the smoke is coming from? Does the smoke start instantly or once the engine is warmed up? What does the smoke smell like; oil, electrical, hickory?

Maybe the timing is way retarded so at idle it doesn't have time to burn the fuel completely, but as the advance kicks in...

I had a similar problem when I was first restoring my Z. It would start and idle fine, but as soon as you go to give it gas, it would die. My problem turned out to be the ECU.

The cold start valve only squirts a little extra fuel when the car is started cold, say for 100 revolutions of the engine. The main fuel injectors run off of a temperature corrected map that depends on the temp sensor. (IIRC)

Does the cam rotate fairly easily? The "How to Rebuild" book says that the cam towers are "align bored" and that if you remove the towers, they may not line up correctly after re-installation... Is there a possibility that the cam was in the wrong orientation when installed and the piston was pushing against an open valve?

An AE86 is a rwd Corolla that is really popular for drifting, but I doubt they would stamp the chassis code on the flywheel. I've got a 76 280 flywheel in the garage, I can check it when I get home if others don't chime in first...

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine%20builder/