thehelix112

So just to keep this thread updated. Found this pic from Kurt who built an awesome VK56-powered buggy. Coupled with this post: Makes me think that Kurt is awesome. I'm trying to get in touch with Kurt to see if I can come have a look at his setup' date=' and/or convince him to replicate it for me. If the engine can go down 4" the stock intake may well clear the bonnet, and enable me to get the car running without fronting the cost of a new intake. I very roughly measured the intake port spacing, then felt like a fool as you'd expect it to be relatively close the bore spacing, which I believe is 92+8.8mm. I doubt any motorbike has 100mm port spacing, given they typically run much smaller bores, so need to keep investigating other options. Might be a cheaper way to get the extrudabody ITB setup if I do bits of it myself, though its $1080 just for the raw ITBs, with no linkages, mounts, horns or filters. Got in touch with JWT for cams for the VK56 with VCT, they say that the intake cams are limited in the duration/lift they can run without piston recesses due to the relative movement of the intake cam. Asked them how big you can go until you reach that point. Waiting for a response. About to go email Autronic and ask them about running a VK56DE with VCT, and if they have any suggestions. Again, Kurt's invaluable pic: [img']http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm178/kscherbaum/VKCamsetc001.jpg[/img] provides a hint as to what the timing input from the stock VK56 looks like. Remains to be seen whether the Autronic will work with this signal. Also remains to be seen how you splice together the two different signals from the two intake cams? I'm definitely not used to working on an engine with more than one cam. Dave

Thanks dude. I hope so too. Though i'm not i'm the fastest worker here, I do try and plod along. Dave

Ah gotcha.. Thanks John and Jon. Dave

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=41002&b=1&st=&p=entry http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=63197&b=1&st=&p=entry The view in the topics view says the author is Guest__* and that there is only one reply for each.. something lost in the transition or something? Dave

Well, glad I'm excited about this at least. Will update: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/63506-daily-1978-280z/ with progress. Dave

Engine sitting on my shed floor:

Been a while since my last update. Since the above pic the car has been driven a few times around some fun roads, served daily duty for a month or so, then went to vacation at my grandmother-in-law's place where it has a garage space. I've also given up trying to keep this a road-car project, and am more or less resigned to using it as an extra large mechano-set. Ie, something I play with to get a feeling of building things. So, to that end, I purchased FG doors from Reaction Research, and now the car looks like this: No more progress on this front unfortunately, though I did get a set of 280z door latches to put into the doors so they'll close again. Current plan is to run lexan windows fixed in place with a horizontal slidey window, through which one can reach to open them. Hopefully that'll pass scrutineering? Will confirm before I do it obviously. Also will be purchasing carbon bonnet, hatch and roof skins from Reaction Research soon as I can afford them. In between all this not driving the car, started talking more with my mate in NZ who road races a RB30ET VL Turbo, he convinced me in the land of the V8, I'd be crazy not to go a VK56DE. Hence after hesistant searching, and thanks to my russian connection: Engine sitting on my shed floor: From a 2007, non-flex fuel Nissan Titan you see behind the lovely two chaps in the first pic. Advertised as only having 7000mi on it, which I'm a little dubious of, but it is extremely clean, as was the entire underside, save some dirt splashed on the sump. So thats where things stand. Immediate jobs: 1. Get the FG doors painted and installed. 2. Plan the intake manifold for the VK. Hoping to be able to adapt some cheap motorbike throttle bodies. 3. Collect more parts for the conversion: aftermarket computer, fuel pump, injectors, fuel line etc. Remote oil filter kit. 4. Normal conversion crap: trial fit, measure, repeat. Dave

That'd be great. Well either way, I'll try to grab as much fuel line from my donor as I can just in case. Dave

Sorry to drag this up from the dead, but I was wondering if there is a way to tell if a vk56de is e85 compatible or not, and it was previously alluded to in this thread: Jared, is there any way I can tell from looking at it if it is? Here is the info I have: 2007 Titan, definitely VCT, iirc the engine number was vk56497???Z (going from memory, is written down at home). Or is it as simple as the injectors being a different colour? Dave

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs201.snc4/38406_143380015677763_100000172951178_456189_6054181_n.jpg apparently only has around 7000 miles on it. Mine for $800. Feeling pretty lucky, dave

Cool. Thanks. They look great btw. How did you attach them? And how are they recommended to be attached? Fibreglassed in? The ones on the website look bonded on somehow? Dave

Fibreglass ZG flares? Dave

Is that RB or RB-R? Also, what sizes? Looks awesome. Dave

Not a full track car at this point Lurchybaby. Just lightening things up is a nice cheap(ish) way to make it a bit more fun to drive (as per Colin Chapman). Dave

Oh really? I had no idea. It's a '78. Thanks for the heads up. Dave

they'd almost definitely work. I have no idea how to pm with the new system, but how much were you looking for them? Just to confirm, it's the bit at the rear flat side of the door that clips onto the striker attached to the body yes? Thanks, Dave

Guys, I am chasing a pair of stock 280z door latch mechanisms. These are the bits that are inside the door, not the bits that bolt to the car. If anyone is scrapping a set of doors or has this laying about it'd be very helpful. Many thanks, Dave

They do in fact feel very light. Also found these: http://chassisengineering.com/shopDetails.asp?CatId=10&SubCatId=16&ProductId=1692 While searching for these: http://chassisengineering.com/shopDetails.asp?CatId=10&SubCatId=17&ProductId=1028 When they say ``Factory striker'', any idea what they're talking about? Oh NM, the bit that bolts to the car I guess? Not too expensive by the looks. Dave

just thought i'd update with some info: My stock 280Z rhs door as pulled off car with I believe aftermarket mirror weighed in at 65lb (bathroom scales, grain of salt). Reaction research rhs door weighs 11lb. So a saving of 54lb on a single side. Was very easy to get the spring out of the lower hinge, just be sure nt to be sitting in front of it when it lets go. will likely have to cut the guide arm and roller mechanisms off the lower hinge I think, but not a big deal. I need to pull the stock door apart a bit more but will likely reuse the stock latch mechanism and cut the FG door to accept it, assuming an acceptable way of unlocking can be found, and no better ideas surface? Dave

Tony, The doors are these ones from John's Website: They seem pretty sturdy to my highly untrained eye/hand, will try to get some FG thicknesses later. As I am on a non-existent budget I think the stock hinges with no spring might be the go as Jon mentions. Not worth the effort for this car for 1lb all round. Also need to work out the lexan window and latch arrangements at some point, hopefully going to have a play with it this weekend. Would love to see pics of the techniques others have done. While we're (kinda) on the topic, is it generally recommended/required for a race car to have windows that come out for escape in the event of a crash? Or can the windows be mounted fixed up? Many thanks for the awesome replies, those hinges look pretty cool Snailed, unfortunately I don't have access to a welder, so making a set for myself might prove difficult until I do. Great to have a pic for reference later on though. Dave

Damn nice. Looking forward to more updates and an ETA. Dave

Hey guys, I was lucky enough to pick up some FG doors from John Washington a few weekends ago. Lovely bloke, highly recommended. Starting to tackle the problem of how to attach the suckers, so trying to line up some aluminium door hinges. The stock steel items are heavy and have unnecessary springs that I think will put undue stress on the door. Does anyone have any recommendations? I've searched the usual suspects, jegs, summit racing, a1 racing, etc and haven't found much to be honest. I'm also curious about how people would go about a latching mechanism for these doors.. Many thanks, Dave

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/43865-tutorial-the-best-value-detonation-detectors-on-the-planet/ Great minds.. (though the idea wasn't mine) Dave

Hmm.. I wish you'd gotten a picture of how it looks from a distance. Up close pics make it very hard to tell how it'll look overall. But from the pics you did take (much obliged btw!) it sure does look good. Good luck with the paint. Dave