thehelix112

If you don't want it i'll take it off his hands.

I'll need a signed affidavit and three witnesses. Thanks dude, much appreciated! Dave

Great! I pulled the boot back from the inner end of the Z31 axles and couldn't see how it was attached. The outer ends have a circlip that I wouldn't wanna just smash out.. not to doubt you Jon, but I'd love some confirmation that you can remove the inner joints that way, coz if you can, I'm definitely doing that! Great info, and much obliged. Dave

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133463&highlight=weld+diff Has all the pics (cheers Myron). Dave

A CiG locker. I'll try and dig up the pics myron took when he welded it. The stub axles are the same length yes, however they need to go on opposing sides. The longer stub axle on the Z31 axle is attached to the longer shaft, which only fits in the drivers side, which is where the shorter one needs to go. Dave

Guys, I have a 3.54:1 R200 that came in my 280z. If I pull both axles out I can see straight through it. I also have a 4.11 R200 locker I got from Myron, which I cannot see through. The `block' (don't know the term which is perhaps why I can't find anything searching?) is causing the longer Z31 CV axle that I have to not go all the way in on the passenger side. So, what the hell is this block called so I can search some more, and/or, how do I get rid of it? Many thanks, and apologies if this is a repeated topic. Dave

Hey J, Maybe you should not write things that require actual reading and comprehension in order to reply intelligently? Dave

RTz, To clarify, I need one control arm, apologies for the confusion. Shipping next week would be awesome! PM on its way. Rimal310, Thanks for the offer, much appreciated. Thanks guys, Dave

Hi guys, Pending completion of the ZForce rear control arms, I'm looking to just get my car going again, so I need a stock rear control arm as I hacked one to bits trying to get it off. Prefer close Socal for pickup. Many thanks, Dave

This is very interesting. Please keep us updated. Dave

If you know the specs to plug in you can use this little calculator I wrote: http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ After you have inserted all the info if you click `Export' and email/PM me the text it spits out I'll add the info so its there for everyone. Good luck, Dave

I thought it became clear what she was doing when she inserted the ``I'll go get my fully-sik bros'' Thats some crazy hektik shiz there bro. Dave

Keep going. Dave

Looks great. What rear spoiler is that? Looks slighter taller than a BRE? Dave

Thanks Jon, much appreciated. Dave

Guys, Sorry to linger on this guys, would you say a 23 x 9.5 x 15 slick in correct speak (metric) would be a 250/590R15? Also, does anyone have any experience with the Yokohama A005s? Many thanks. Dave

I can confirm that my R200 has a `9000' stamp on it, but the 7000 diff looks far too big to be a R180? Dave

I'm totally sold on this. 15x10s SW series 82s with FA slicks seem like a very cheap way to get grip. Dan, what are the specs on your brakes? Do you have any specs on the inner dimensions of the wheels you have? I'd like to double check the brakes I just purchased will definitely fit. Sorry to thread hi-jack, might take it to PM. Dave

I forget how pretty your car is Dan. Thanks for the pics. Dave

Cool. Plan on forced induction? Otherwise, I'm curious why you went with a plenum + single t/b? Dave

I'd love to get a set of those spin werkes. Pics please! Dave

Sticky! Dave

Why a SR20DET? Dave

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech103.html Look at the section under `Surge Line.' This explains how ported compressor housings help overcome this problem. Dave

pics work fine for me. Dave