thehelix112

daeron, that sounds great. I'll likely add a filtering option to it and just put all the data in. That way you can choose to use the subsets of the data you want. Any/all links to said morsels are hugely appreciated, dave

can you post some pics of the press you're using? I got another guy to help me and we just held it in place, no special bracing required. Also took over 1000lb to get them out. Dave

Thanks guys. Sorry for the bad info, will update soon, Dave

dsommer, That looks great. Definitely down for one in FG. Dave

Fixed the spluttering issue: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=155881 Took it for a spin last night just to smoke test it. Some pics: Wheels didn't fall off, but the clutch slave is jamming over extended. Will order a new slave and replace it this weekend. So good to be driving it again. Locked diff is familiar, though the 4.11 gears aren't anywhere near as revvy as I was expecting. Guess thats a good thing. Stock L28E is still slow as sh!t. Dave

Rolling again. Thanks guys! Dave

Guys, Been fielding a few requests for updates to my engine design utility that ozdat has graciously hosted for almost 5 years now: http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ I thought I'd put the call out to anyone/everyone, are there engines you want to see in the utility? Or any new features that would be useful etc? If you have engine specs that you'd like in there, it'd really help me out if you added them to the utility yourself by doing the following: Click the Add button next to the component you wish to add (block, crank, rods etc), and follow the prompts for the data it requests. Set 0 for anything you don't know. After adding all the components, add an engine for it. There is unfortunately no easy way to link engines to their other components so I'll have to handle this bit. Click the Export button at the bottom of the page. Copy and paste the text that appears in the text field at the very bottom. Email it to me: david _ andrews112 at yahoo dot com dot au. Many thanks, Dave

Some of us have teh most aw3som3st cars evah, but [random excuse1] and [random excuse2] always happens! thehelix112 -----72 240Z---------5SPD----------- Turbo --------------12.834 @ 115MPH Dave

Phil, Absolutely, that was next on my list of things to do. Great idea with the bolt in line. Dave

I think I say `assume' too much.

No. Other way 'round. Hmmm.. so if the signal is 12V it assumes its in cold-start mode? Indicating that I possibly have a short in that circuit? Thanks again for all the great info. Dave

Hmm, so the thermotime switch controls the cold-start injector? Interesting. I thought I tested it when it was struggling by disconnecting the cold-start injector but it didn't make any difference. Maybe I'm mistaken. I assume you're saying that the thermotime switch controls when the cold-start injector runs? And assumedly that if no signal comes from it, it assumes the engine is in cold-start mode and starts dumping fuel in? Dave

cheap fibreglass with trapezoidal mods for me please. Dave

spacecase70, Ben, Thanks so much for the input, much appreciated. The injectors were just cleaned, and I remembered that the exhaust headers developed a huge split recently, and I broke a stud trying to get it off to have it welded up, so it was just welded up on the car, but not completely as he couldn't reach. So thats where the engine bay smoke is coming from. The issue turned out to be a dodgey connection to the drivers-side coolant temperature sensor. There are two sensors on my car, right next to each other (?!). No idea which is what, but the one that you can hardly see (at night with only a desk lamp for light) was the culprit. Next issue, clutch master cylinder is blown out I think. Many thanks guys, Dave

I'm curious what the rear wing is, my eyes are dodgey, but it looks to be a twin-element? Who makes it and how much was it? Looks brilliant! Dave

Lets keep the political talk out of this shall we? And perhaps pay more attention to our grammar/spelling? Dave

i'd consider an fg one. dave

The reason its rubber is so that it does not resist the movement of the strut outwards during bump. A camber place, say from TTT, with a spherical bearing has even less resistance, and hopefully, a little more range. You want as little resistance to movement as possible I think. Its its superstiff you will just bend the dampers and wear them out awfully quickly. Dave Edit: Dammit, beaten to the punch but Jon. Unsurprised.

Hahah.. welcome to socal? I've also had the muffler-explosion-on-the-freeway experience. Fun times. Are you down permanently or just for a visit? Dave

Ron, Will do mate. I'll check its connections are correct, and will pull it out and see if it runs differently with it disconnected entirely. Thanks dude. Dave

Little more info. Let it cool down again (during the week) and tried again yesterday. It starts immediately when its cold, running absolutely rich as hell. I'm surprised it runs, the plugs are not looking happy at all, and it blows amazing amounts of black smoke. So its running pig-rich. Is there a sensor that I've misplaced or knocked or has died in the past year that could exhibit this behaviour? As the engine warms up it gets worse until it just won't even fire. Any help appreciated. Dave

Wow, that looks great. And thank god, the hat is not bright f'off red. I'm assuming that means to the best of your knowledge there is no wilwood hat with the right offset, inner and outer PCDs? Dave

I think I'll just leave it as is, will fine a safe place to do some spirited driving (not a lot) and see if the weight gets scratch marks on it. If so, will start on the mods. Plan is for 15" wheels, which hopefully will help. Good idea on the stick-on weights. Thanks for the comments Jon. I'm afraid I didn't source the rod-ends. They came with the zforce rear control arms, but I felt they were not appropriate, so I just reused them and sourced more normal replacements. But I think they are either PCM or PCM-T QA1 rod ends. Dave

So my car has been off the road for almost a year, so long that the engine is now very unhappy about life. It'll sputter along running on buggerall cylinders for as long as you can be bothered holding your foot down around 20% throttle. If you stab the throttle it dies, if you take your foot off it dies. And there is a decent amount of blue smoke coming off the engine bay. I'm not sure if its the oil/grease from me touching stuff burning off, or if there is somehow a hideous problem and its ingesting massive amounts of oil? It started like it'd never been stopped, but then quickly developed this problem a few seconds later. I know very little (nothing) about the stock L28E setup, and couldn't both sit in the car to keep it going and look in the engine bay to try and find the source of the smoke. Only other thing I can think of is that it had this problem when it sat for a few weeks previously but then came good by itself. Any suggestions/ideas? Dave

Ok, the car is back on the ground after some suspension work and tie rod ends. Its been off the road for a long long time, so long that the engine is now very unhappy about life. It'll sputter along running on buggerall cylinders for as long as you can be bothered holding your foot down around 20% throttle. If you stab the throttle it dies, if you take your foot off it does. And there is a decent amount of blue smoke coming off the engine bay. I'm not sure if its the oil/grease from me touching stuff burning off, or if there is somehow a hideous problem and its ingesting massive amounts of oil? It started like it'd never been stopped, but then quickly developed this problem a few seconds later. Very sad. Anywhere, here are some pictures of how it sits now: