thehelix112

My eyes are bleeding. Dave

Great. Thanks Dave

The wheel width is not measured to the outermost edge of the wheel, AFAIK, but rather to the point the tyre is mounting, as indicated here: http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=95 I believe the generally accepted difference is ~1 inch, so: Is not so much a fact as seemingly incorrect. 17x9 measured = 17x10 physical width. Meaning 5" is centreline, -4.5" back spacing = 12.5 (13)mm offset. Dave

i've heard tell of people doing this with L4 rally engines, so that _both_ pistons at tdc fire at the same time. Supposedly creating more torque, but one would have to assume, doing terrible things to the harmonics? Anyone have any experience/research about this? dave

First time I drove my wife anywhere was in my dodgey turbo 240z with crap brakes. She still maintains it made(makes) her feel like shes going to die. But she knows how happy it makes me, so is supportive of it. She organized space in her grandma's shed for me to keep working on it so it wasn't out in the weather, and is going halvies in my new set of wheels. Dave

Keep your prejudices in your pocket? Dave

Dare I say it that if you do end up building this car with a full tube-frame chassis, a highly built 2JZ, superwide body-kit (280YZ from what I gather of your project?) an expensive dog box, maybe the idea of iterating over a couple of diffs before you find one that works for you, won't seem like such a big deal. Just saying, build the car first, then worry about breaking things? Not that this isn't a useful theoretical discussion. Dave

Did they revalve to 350/125 because you asked them to? Or did you ask for the 300/100 revalve? I assume thats not the stock valving? Dave

John, Ah, my bad. I should read more closely re Option 1. Link to doors.pdf (http://www.reactionresearch.com/doors.pdf) is broken for me. Dave

and it's way after tomorrow! promises promises. dave

np. We can't all be as retarded as I am. Good luck, Dave

Wow! Thanks for the response John, thats bloody brilliant. So options 1, 2 and 3 are all 345/ea, but just a skin is 190? Dave

Do you have any pics of them Marine? Or anyone else for that matter? Dave

Well blow me (down), you're right: http://www.reactionresearch.com/pricelist.html#optionalparts Fibreglass Doors: $345 Nice. Dave

I had a very similar issue. Turned out I was using a L28E gasket on a L28ET engine and that gasket blanked up all the (3?) coolant galleries on the manifold side of the engine. Popped within a few miles twice before I clued in. Take the head gasket off and check that its not doing the same thing, blocking coolant galleries on the manifold side of the engine maybe? Dave

So I think no is the answer. According to this http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4072.0.html , there is a company in Japan called Restored that makes about everything. Someone with contacts in Japan coughTonyDcough, might be able to help you out Mike? Dave

Where did I put the `awaits-with-baited-breath' smiley? Dave

Ron, I guess I wasn't thinking particularly well. Too much urgh, everything really. My justification now would revolve around the relative angle to the downward swooping hatch-line. I'm likely wrong, but it seems that the step doesn't make that much of a difference to the profile, esp as the point of these spoilers is to create high pressure zones by basically stagnating the air as it flows down the hatch. Now that it'd be worse with a smoother edge, just that it doesn't seem worth any increase in price for that mod to be done. I really like this spoiler as I think it will work well with the next level up in aero, like the dual-element wing on the orange race car with wide zgs and rota rbs (the link to which alludes me). Edit: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148438&highlight=track+car Either way, I want one. Dave

Yes on rounded shape. No on leading edge. Gets my vote.

Done and done. Good luck Terry! Dave

Well? Not that I'm impatient or anything. Dave

You sir, can get bent. Dave

1. Isolate the cold-start injector as the source of the richness: Remove the plug from the cold-start injector, and/or remove the thermo-time coolant sensor plug. 2. Ensure the TPS is adjusted properly. You can do this externally with a multimeter by ensuring that when closed one circuit is closed, and that when the TPS opens beyond approximately 30 degrees, the other circuit is closed. Much more good info here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html 3. Ensure the AFM is adjusted properly. I haven't done this, but lots and lots and lots of great info from smart people here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm specifically: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html and http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/calibration/index.html Oh, and I think you'll find people a lot more willing to help, if you put a little more effort into your grammar and punctuation. Good luck, Dave

Ok I thought it was a real car based on the initial pic. Was very confused for the first couple of pages of the link (til i reread the URL). Nice, Dave