thehelix112

I never really understood this. Who cares what the VIN is? Does it make any functional difference to the car? If anything, it simply means that the car has had fewer iterations of development and improvement than others. I fail to see how that is more valuable. Dave

Hey John, I hope you don't mind me keeping the topic going, I just wanted to add another data point, that being the LZ twin cam Nissan heads. From what I can gather, they used a combination of both things being discussed: a gear drive, then a chain to drive both the cams. I found some great info on a now-deceased website run by Errol Smith in Oz: http://web.archive.org/web/20091030075820/http://www.datrats.com.au/lz_twin_cams.htm Specifically these pics I found interesting: I'm going to save and attach them here for posterity. Given this solution clearly works for a L-series, I wonder why OSG decided against it. Someone wanna email them a link to this thread? It'd be great if more companies were available and/or willing to provide actual information to the *gasp* interwebs. Dave PS. Alan, I'm sure you have more info/pics on the LZ, would love to see them. Oh and when I asked for information, I was referring to gear versus chain drive in general, not specifically for the L-series. I should have been more clear.

Sorry to disappoint, but not really. I pulled more crap out of the engine bay on Saturday, and I attacked some remaining wiring loom bracket thingos, and the stock transmission tunnel mount points with an angle grinder. Almost got it all cleaned up, but I ran out of time to re-test fit the engine and gearbox combo. Hope to do that this weekend. Looks like this now: Definitely need to clean it all up and give it a splash of proper paint at some point, but later I reckon. Dave

Disclaimer: I know nothing about gear drives nor belt drives nor chain drives. It seems to me the advantage of a belt drive would be it's quietness. I recall reading stuff about the VK56 using belts to reduce NVH, and nissan talking that up (http://papers.sae.org/2004-01-0985/ available here: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/attachments/titan-general-discussion/9430-endurance-5.6l-attachment.pdf). I'd love to see some people link to actual engineering articles that address these issues, as I'm sure they have been studied in depth. Actual information would be great, in preference to opposing and repeated opinion-based posts. Thanks, Dave

I'll let other people chime in, but I think you can get a lot of mileage for body work and suspension out of a decent Mig. Johnc, Jmortensen, EMWHYR0HEN, and others will be able to offer better information. Dave

I am in a similar position. I ended up saving up for a while (!) and getting this: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/Equipment/Pages/product.aspx?product=K2535-2 though I paid closer to USD2200. I am at the moment watching lots of Tig videos in preparation for a course I enrolled in, as I haven't done anything beyond some basic stick welding years ago. I think if you know you're going to be using the welder for a long time to come, to get a decent one. If you just need to do one job then will never use it again.. then maybe a more consumable one is better suited? Dave

If anything it's going to be wierd how much like a 'normal' zed it's going to look. Fantastic stuff, cannot wait for more pics/vids. Dave

Glad to hear it Doug. Go the wallabies. Dave

Is this for the stock strut tops? If so, drilling and tapping the D shaped holes worked well for me. Dave

Cool. Lemme know how you go. I should've taken pics of my front so you had an idea how much.. I also needed to cut away the guard behind the wheel, but only on one side (yay 70s manufacturing tolerances). I'm pretty sure you can make them work though. Dave

A notcher I'm guessing. I'd love to know what notchers pros like johnc use. Dave

As I said here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105011-rota-rb-r-17x95-on-all-4-how-large-of-tires-will-fit/page__view__findpost__p__982774 I have 275s on all 4, they fit, but it requires you to return front castor to stock and cut some material out of the front air dam. Dave

**** that sideways (pun). Dave

Looks like it might have spat something at the end? Also no time? Lame.

And video!

That last shot is ducking money. Looks crazy aggressive. I love it! Dave

FAQ section for this thread? Great info. Dave

Wow the jd^2 model looks great! is it cheap because its non hydraulic? It seems like doing it manually would offer more precision? but maybe more elbow grease required too? Dave

I have no input other than I am interested in the answer myself, so thanks for asking! Dave

Oh good point! I was struggling to think of a positive side to this..

I'd love the above as a sticky. That's great info, thanks John. One question would be how important is it to have tyres the same as you want to actually use? The scale of the forces involved I'd imagine would be important to control their effects on weight distribution, but I couldn't afford to be flat spotting a set of semi slicks.. I guess you could always unflat spot them? > Dave

Small clarification, the stock L28ET is 7.38:1 compression, not 8.3:1. Sounds like you are on the right track! Good luck. And yes, I ran my oil feed for the Turbo from a T at the oil pressure sensor and -3 AN from that, so can definitely be done that way. I also welded a bung onto the stock L28E sump right below the scavage tray. Also run as big a drain from the Turbo to the sump as possible, you dont want oil backing up in the Turbo and blowing the seals. I ran -10 lines and didn't have any issues... Dave

Where on that list is take it outside and get pics for us?

Just to save everyone else some time, I was skeptical as when I searched SB 1224 I found some nonsense that had nothing to do with this. But here is a link to the legislation text: http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/pub/11-12/bill/sen/sb_1201-1250/sb_1224_bill_20120223_introduced.pdf and it is in fact legitimate. Emailed all the senators. Dave

Quick spooling gives me the shits personally. I ran a stock L28ET with GT3582 0.82 hot side and I really enjoyed it. A friend ran his RB30ET track car with a 1.06 because he couldn't get any traction out of corners with the 0.82, boost came on too quickly. I guess it just comes down to personal preference? Dave