thehelix112

Cool. I have nfi how old my Arias pistons are. I believe they have 338 cast into the underside? So between 0.055 and 0.06 should be laughing? Dave

Turning the cam at the cam sprocket bolt doesn't sound like a good idea to me. The crank drives the cam, not the other way around. Hard luck. Dave

sim76, You'll definitely know it when you hear it. You can hear each individual valve opening and closing which makes one particular sound, the sound of detonation is more high pitch and definite irregular (which is why elec det sensors have so much trouble figuring it out). Dave

You two put 99.9% of guys I know that work on cars (including myself) to shame. Awesome. Dave

Making Detonation Detectors for an Engine Tutorial Parts Required; 3-4m of 1/2" rubber hose Set of cheap plastic ear muffs 1/2" copper pipe Tools Required; Hammer 8-9mm drill bit 13-14mm drill bit Step 1: Cut the copper pipe into one or two 10-15cm lengths, depending on if you want to listen to two points on the engine. Step 2: Hammer 3-4cm of one end of each copper pipe flat. Step 3: Drill a 8-9mm hole in the flatted section of this pipe. Step 4: Bolt the copper pipe(s) to the engine. The ideal place for this is on the block, as high up the bore as possible (as close to where detonation occurs as possible). Step 5: Cut the rubber hose into lengths and find a way to feed them from the engine bay into the cabin. As my heater doesn't work anyway I just removed the heater hoses and used these two holes in the firewall. Step 6: Slide one end of the rubber hose onto each copper pipe you have bolted to the engine. Here is an example: Step 7: Drill a 13-14mm hole in each side of the cheap plastic earmuffs Step 8: Squeeze each rubber hose into these holes. Here is an example: Step 9: Put them on and look like a doofus while driving. I believe mad1600 has an example somewhere of me doing just that. Thanks to HSVSUX (he told me of this idea), and Umm_510 for hosting the pics. Dave

Weld a spacer onto the koni shocks?! Sounds awfully dodgey to me. Why not just get a cylindrical spacer spun up? That way you can install the shock, then the spacer, then the nut and keep full shock travel.. I think.. haven't thought about it enough but a mate did it on the weekend. If they were approaching the same price, I'd be going koni, but then I don't know too much about tokico aside from they make motorbike brakes as well. Koni have been doing shocks for a long time, and their sports inserts are almost a gimme amongst budget racers, or so I've been lead to believe. Dave

I didn't think the UDM 240sx came turbocharged? I'm not sure that you need an upgraded turbocharger to run 9psi. Sure you will make more power on 9psi with a GT42R than you will on 9psi with a stock T3 (because of the larger exhaust housing reducing intake charger reversion). But increasing the size of the turbocharger to run the sort of boost (and flow) that the stock unit is easily capable of seems a bit silly to me. Why don't you want to run 7-9 on the stock turbo? Dave

Dat260, Can you please take a pic of the rest of the head gasket from the 1st pic, I'm curious about the water gallery holes on the manifold side of the head. Oh and what gasket it is? Dave

dapiper, mfrs? What is this? I have 2nd hand arias forgies that measure around 85.8mm on my verniers. Funny though, the same verniers measured my F54 bore also at around 85.8mm. :S I need a proper dial guage, would also be nice to check roundness while I'm there. I don't care overmuch about the `correctness' of this combo, just want it to work while I save for a proper rebuild. So you run your arias at 0.0055, any idea what a rough upper bound for say, the turbo high boost applications you mention? I really have no clue. Dave

Or an equivalent question, how much money do you have to waste? Dave

Exhausts are everything. My GT35R would NOT make more than 10psi with a stock type exhaust behind the L28. Openned it up to 3" and it'll make more than enough to blow head gaskets. I would think twice about going anywhere that tuned your car without A/F ratios. Don't suppose they had a knock sensor on it anywhere either ehy? Madness. Dave

Carby turbo is great for going hard. Apparently drivability is a little worse than EFI. Should be fun to muck around with though. Dave

There is one for sale on ozdat atm I believe: L28 TURBO ENGINE 4 SALE This engine was built by SWR & runs a P90 turbo head, T3 turbo, EFI manifold with 300ZX 55mm T/B, Wolf 3D ECU, FJ20 turbo injectors, electronic ignition, on 8psi boost & has only travelled 15,000 kms. Engine is still in the car (260Z), can hear it run & test drive. Price: $4500ono Location: Wollongong NSW Contact: Nick Email: nixcars@aapt.net.au Phone: 0416 283 194 (hours: 9am-9pm) Friggin steap if you ask me, and don't forget to ask if it has the F54 block. Failing that I believe Lindsay has one in his shop: http://www.zshop.net.au/ Dave

Paint the wheels matt black. Matt black can neva l0se. Dave

Rightio. Never met an Aussie I'm assuming? Lightenuporban. Dave

Linkorban. Dave

Hot diggity! Dave

SR240Z, As I said, I'm sure it can be done. However the specific application and regularity of its use also have an impact. Isn't it funny that the mega-hp engines you see are always OWNED by the workshops. I wonder why that is. Whats that? You heard the engine blew up? Nah, must be mistaken, stock block with 544rwhp. *Sees the poor mechanic dead on his feet from sleep deprevation* Dave

Don't get me wrong, they'll make more horsepower, but it would seem that you're pushing things, and making them more and more likely to go pop once you get past that approximate mark. Best of luck! Dave

I have a balancer built by Chris Wood of EFIHardware(.com). Cost me the pricely sum of USD170. Its a BMW I6 balancer adapted to suit the L28. The same setup is used on a stroker L31 here that has seen 8800rpm in development. Not really pertininet I suppose but something to keep in the back of your mind. PM for Chris' email. Dave

7" rim is physically 8" wide. Every rim is approx 1" wider than the rating, atleast thats how I always understood it? Dave

Good luck. 340 dyno dynamics rwhp is about the limit from what little I know about them. That does come out to around 395 dynojet rwhp, so maybe I should just shut up. *shuts up* Dave

Yep, and thats a bad thing? I just thought it was normal, disappears as soon as you put your foot into it? Dave

Hehe.. is that because people believe the `400rwhp from a stock engine' rumours and they throw legs/spin bearings all the time? Dave

No, I don't capeesh. The spring is held shut by the pressure in the intake manifold. How would it possibly be blown open? Dave