Racin_Jason

I think the ground clearance would worry me alot more than the heat from the exhaust. Im not sure how you have your Z set up, but i KNOW mine wouldnt take pipes running underneath the oilpan. Now granted, pipe diameter, suspension setups and tranny sizes vary. My 240Z has a 700R4 in it and Im concerned about ground clearance when running a single 3" on the SIDE of the oilpan. Now, if you have the ground clearance, I would just keep enough gap to allow the pipe to move with engine torque, etc while not hitting anything. The heat radiating from the pipe that far away from the cylinders shouldnt be an issue. Good luck, Jason

http://www.cachassisworks.com/home.htm

I AM NOT WORTHY

Uncle Ed, Sorry to hear about your mustache mishap. I just wanted to say that Im glad you kept your car. I called you awhile back regarding buying it and you seemed pretty intent on getting rid of it. Even lowered the price without me prying. You have a nice ride and I hope you enjoy it for along time to come. ...and yes I got my own to play with Take care, Jason

My first impression before scrolling down was "&$^%#!! This is guy is a lunatic...I like him already!"....then I started lookin at the turbo's and considered clearance of the steering shaft, motor mounts and firewall...then i scrolled down and said "Ya got me ya bastid' " UNF...me LIKES!!

anyone?

Looks to me like you might have the pics in a private folder. Yahoo requires you make the photos "public" in order for anyone that isnt logged in under yor email to see them. Jason

Hey all, Not sure this is the right forum to post this but here it goes. I remeber a post awhile ago about cleaning stained, ugly ceramic coated headers. I seem to recall Simple Green either working great or ruining the appearance. Welp, im about to mount a set that are stained a rusty color and have grease stains aswell. I couldnt find the original post through search...so i ask once again,please. Whats the best product and application to clean these mucked up headers? Thanks much! Jason

Congrats Scotty Looking forward to the pics and the test drive feedback! Here Honda, Honda Jason

Is it just me or does the mocked picture here loook to be the same offset position as my mount? I was hopin that was the answer but that pic doesnt look even close to lineing up. But THX very much for the effort you put in to see if it would work. I tell ya we have the best members on this forum compared to any ive ever been on...and thas quite a few. ANY OTHER IDEAS FELLAS...i wanna drive my 420HP Z!

desperate bump

Jeez, thanks for the quick responses. I'm not sure the problem has been solved yet,tho. I'll go over each reply one by one. Labrat~ Modifying the existing mounts is an option, although I know nothing about welding nor do i have a welder. Also one key point is the previous owner had a SBC in the car and was using a "mystery mount" that worked. My best outcome is to find this mount and bolt it right up with no hassle. Your idea sounds doable tho and will be on the plate of consideration for plan B. JBSRace1~ Could the Vette BBC mounts be the mount i need?? Do you know if they are shorter, or have the holes located where i need them to be, by chance? I guess I can make one more trip and ask for the mounts to that Vette and compare. hmm.. Greimann~ I thought maybe the clamshells were my saving grace also. Like you said, I wouldn't be able to use the frameside part like you used..so I would only be using the engine mount piece. Looking at your pics it sure looks like your mount is atleast as tall as mine are, if not taller...but is the bolt hole offset?? Looks like maybe it is! Hard to tell. Wish i could poke my tape measure through the monitor and measure it But whats the width of the mount ears? Mine are 2 5/8"...hmm maybe another trip to the parts store. Also...regarding the two sizes of mounts you linked to...I measured and i already have the shorter one, but nice try! Grumpy~ I agree with you, as usual, completely. But, i cant weld and dont have access to a welder nor someone competant to use it(short of towing the car toa welder). The spreading idea seems alittle scary. No chance of this permanently altering thigs like toe or alignment? As weak as these Datsuns are, I would imagine it wouold indeed spread. Could this guy have SPREAD the framerails with a jack and dropped the engine in that way?? I can try it and see what happens, if theres no risk or damaging the car. Still seems to me that i just have the wrong mounts because he had a 400 in it...and all he did was pull it and sell me the rolling chassis. I'm still on the hunt for the right mount fellas. I sure hope someone has the answer for the easy fix, since welding will require that i rebuild the suspension JUST to tow the car for a 30 minutes weld job Has to be an easy explaination...I'll kee p watching this post. ALL IDEAS ARE APPRECIATED THANKS ALL!!!!!!! Jason

Hi all, Welp I've came along way with my 240. Got the 355 built along with a 700R4 and dropped them between the framerails only to find out theres a problem. The engine mounts where fabbed and welded to the crossmember by the previous owner (was Chevy V8 car before i got it). He had a 400sbc in it and "said" he was using 70's el camino mounts. Well upon dropping my 355 in there I realized that the mounts i had bought didnt line up. With one side bolted to the crossmember mount...the other side missed the hole by about 3/4"-1". The motor mounts holes were to wide a pattern for the crossmember mounts. Since this issue arose, I've been to many parts stores and lastly a mega warehouse where i went through every 3-bolt style Chevy engine mount they had to find what i needed...to no avail. They ALL had the frameside mounting point holes in the same location in relation to the block mounting holes. I even tryed to find a mount that had enough meat around the holes to elongate them just enough to make it work...strike 2. Thats where you guys come in...to clear my cluttered path and save the day. (prays for the answer..) I've made a webpage with pics and some descriptions so there is no confusion on the problem. http://www.jasonshobbyshowcase.homestead.com/240problems.html There are several large pics so it may take a bit to load for you modem folks. Please help a Z nut solve his problem...I'm about to loose it! THANKS! Jason

hehe...if I were you i wouldn't worry to much about not being in the 11s. That combo will be PLENTY fast in your Z! Your setup is actually almost identical to mine, save a few things. I used a Xtreme 268 cam and a Dominator2 intake...but the rest is right in there I'm sure BIG GRINS are coming for both of us Jason

Nope, unfortunately I didn't get to go. My ride didn't show and was unreachable..maybe next year Hope you all had a great time! I wanna see PICTURES!! Jason

Congrats on your purchase! That is indeed a nice car and im sure youll be happy with it. I guess now i know why Dans been unreachable.. Jason

I concur...that was the best race story (and funniest) I've heard in awhile. Sure does make ya wanna get the damn Z running dont it?

OMG!! That is flat amazing pulling power. Reminds me of Darius and the R1. I cant imagine what it would be like to have a car that fast on the street. My Camaro will be that fast (until around 130 when i run out of gear) but it wont be as street compliant due to suspension dialed for weight transfer. Hehe I hope my 240 (420HP) will get to trounce a bike or two. Even 600cc will be fine Hopefully we'll find out soon.. Jason

Mike, I have DD2000. It has specific headflow files that you can get from the internet for just about any popular head out there. The accuracy of these files is iffy at best, but they are available. Just download them to the software and they are available in menus when designing an engine to be dynoed. Regards, Jason

Nick~ These are both subjects that have been beatin into the ground around here. There's TONS of info to answer your questions right here in this section. I suggest you use the search function and look for "brakes" , "rims" , "tires" , "flares" and "LSD". That's what its there for. You'll be busy reading and learning for awhile. Everyone here is MORE than happy to help, but you need to get up to speed first using all the great info thats already available to you. Jason

oops double post

I second Rons words. With the parts available for the SBC these days, you can make a serious brut! A few things to consider in your choice between SB vs. BB are weight, cost, hassle, power (that YOUR car can use) and ingenuity needed for the install. BB's weigh on average 150-200lbs. more than SB's. BB speed parts cost a HELL OF ALOT more than SB parts. BB's can definately dish out more power due to more cubes (but a 396 isnt even worth it, i agree) but you have to be able to USE the power. A few frame stiffening mods and big tires are definately not gonna hook a stout BB. The car will have to literally be built around the engines dimensions and capabilities..and its gonna get tedious and very expensive. I dont mean to beat down your idea. On the contrary I would love to see another BB Z in our gang, but only if you are willing to go through the motions. I definately dont wanna see you guys start a project that you dont finish is all. Considering the 427 Gorilla SBC builds that are out there now, I just dont see the need for a BB in a Zcar unless you are truly going for the ultimate. You can make well over 500HP and even be streetable with these SB's today. Just make a list of the prices and the work involved with both build-ups and make an educated decision. I've been both the BB and SB route, and for a Z I think that a well built SB can be very excessive powerwise...without doing anything more than going standard JTR or Scarab. A couple that come to mind are 1fstZ and Darius. Which ever way you go I'm in your corner I've just been there and spent more than needed and don't want it to happen to you. Jason

Jake, I was in the same boat as you not so long ago. Although it was for my 73 Camaro, I too wanted my cage a certain way (bracing and tie-in points for stiffness)and the prefabs weren't cutting it. You are probably better off asking around to find a known good fab-man to build your cage for you...how YOU want it. I wasted alot of time looking for what wasn't available. It'll cost you alittle more, sure, but it will be how YOU want it and it sounds like you aren't gonna settle for anything else. Well that was me a few years back and I can tell ya, just have it made by a reputable fabber and be happily done with it. My $0.02 here's mine fwiw Jason

Well mines not running yet, but its getting pretty close. My 355 "desktop dyno's" at around 408HP@6000rpm and 425TQ@4500rpm with the small tube shorty headers and small exhaust. Would be 440HP+ i imagine through longtubes and duals. Jason

Very nice! You must be happy with the end result, i know i would be. What muffler are you running and can u describe the sound and how loud it is at idle/WOT/cruise? Keep up the good work and enjoy your supercar Jason ***I just found a pic that said its a FlowMaster 2chamber...man that thing must ROAR!***