BLOZ UP

Ah, I see. I don't remember what cranking dwell was. 4.0ms is fine, given that you have 9v or less at the coil and it's only for a few seconds.

Sorry, polyurethane.

Don't know, never scoped it out. Let me be more specific--my Z31 ignitor and Z31 coil setup never liked more (or less) than 2.0 ms (+/- 0.2ms) of dwell. Spark was noticeably weaker, and my ignitor would heat up like crazy. One time it failed until it cooled.

I see lots of nice builds using push-lock fittings with polyethylene polyurethane lines. Here's an example: http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/turbo-supercharger-nitrous-systems/700180-push-lock-vacuume-boost-kits-all-turbo-cars-no-more-boost-leaks.html One of these days I'll switch. In the meantime I'm using regular 6-10mm silicone hose: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=18&osCsid=ab86abc7329b2918e0400f751885243b

I was nervous enough rolling mine. **** cutting them.

pearl?

2 color matte, split straight down the longitudinal axis. Or camo. Ooh, or the 240SX theme, two tone with the second tone for the pillars and roof.

I know what you're talking about. My 77 doesn't have them. It's the same shape but no access doors.

I plan on doing it right behind the passenger seat, as low as possible. I thought about trunk area but I like my trunk space, then I thought about under the car, under the trunk area but that's too risky with the 'crumple' zones. Behind the passenger eat allows for easy bracing, easy access, and better weight distribution than stock (at least, with my engine swap).

Nah, just the brights were difficult. They trigger low, the speedhut LED triggers on high, or something like that. Just need a relay to invert it.

Really happy with the Speedhut gauges. Only wish they had generic outputs for datalogging.

Hrm, I did a split grad/undergrad intro to robotics class for my CS bachelors... I distinctly remember the math for more than 3 degrees of freedom getting an order of magnitude more difficult with each additional degree of freedom added. It was a fun class, but I'll stick to CS for a masters.

Pretty sure they're the same... I'd have to find my FSM to verify. I use the 280Z gauge with my VG30E sensor. When my CHTS is at 80 degrees, it's in the middle.

I think you need to use the full URL (youtube.com), not the shortened one. That, and remove the any automatically parsed hyperlink. So just the text of full youtube URL on it's own line.

VG30ET, t3 turbine, 3" exhaust, 30" of Vibrant steel packs, 16" Dynomax glasspack (maybe steel, can't remember).

I don't know the L28s very well but your timing should keep going after 3000 RPM, all the way up to redline. Now, 39 degrees seems like a lot at 3000 RPM (assuming 100% load, 101 kPa), especially with such high IAT readings. If that's really what the engine likes then there's no much you can do, but on my VG30ET I have 15 degrees at idle and it ramps up to 45 degrees at 6500 RPM. I am around 30 degrees or so at 3000 RPM. This is at 100% load, in boost I do remove timing but the trend remains. I'd add that intercooler in first, before worrying about boost threshold, that will help alot. I see 16psi at 3000 RPM.

Do you have an intercooler? 170 degree inlet temps is pretty high. What's your ECU? What's your timing?

Use your words. Is this what you ordered?

Damn that's low compression. Well, that explains the slightly higher timing then.

Looks like you're "all in" at 3000 RPM? And it looks a bit aggressive at 1500-2000 RPM. If it were me (the only person to crack a VG30 head that I know of), I would ramp it up from you minimum timing at a certain load point to the maximum timing at that same load point across the entire RPM range, for each load point. But I know little of the L series engines and what timing they like. What compression are you? What fuel?

The SAE specs say to not use correction factors on force-induction vehicles: "Boosted engines with absolute pressure controls should not be corrected for ambient pressure"

Fixed spark blowout/misfire issue. key was 0.030" on all cylinders except #5, which is at 0.040" (pretty much stock). Runs like a champ now. Hard to start, but that's this crappy compression. I also pulled a couple degrees right at peak boost at 3000 RPM for good measure, and interpolated a few lines around it. I was going to creep the boost up to the 20-22psi range to dial in the fuel table there, but I think I'll scrap that since the tune is good enough to try on the VG33, and it hasn't blown up. I'd like to not break stuff I might need when swapping to the VG33. Plus, winter is coming.

Ok, so the key was 0.030" on all cylinders except #4, which is at 0.040" (pretty much stock). Runs like a champ now. It feels wrong to have that much difference, but my engine is wrong in the first place--#4 is pretty low compression and doesn't fire at all at idle with anything smaller than 0.035", and seems to be the one causing the misfiring at boost at anything lower than 0.040"--although I didn't test it much to be sure. I also pulled a couple degrees right at peak boost at 3000 RPM for good measure, and interpolated a few lines around it.

Speedo and tach are easy too. Two screws, one up on the top interior of the front of the gauge, and one on the bottom that you'll have to be upside down for. Not bad, though.

This. You do not want a critical process (running the car) running on a non-realtime, consumer OS.