Lunar240z

is it allright to polish the inside of the engine to get the same effect as the glyptal painting? of course staying away from mating surfaces.

just an FYI, those camber plates i recieved were indeed the wrong ones. i sent them back and got the correct weld-in plates.

My union hall is right near there in san leandro [sheetmetal] and i've got time to kill after work/before sheetmetal classes, so i'll definately be taking a trip down there. I'll take some pictures and show you guys.

i wonder what kind of wheels those are...

Thats exactly right. The balance bar had 1 very thin washer on each side of the middle tube that welds into your pedal. i used some thicker ones to space the black blocks out more so they would line up again. if this ends up not giving me enough adjustment i'll try to replace the main threaded rod with a longer one. i should be able to because the monoball is just held in with jam nuts. i dont see how that would make them work any differently. Adding bracing is one of things i haven't gotten to yet. i was planning on adding the lip back, and triangulating it back to the main body...kinda hard to explain, you'll see.

problem solved. i replaced the thin washer with 2 slightly thicker ones. OSH fender washers 3/8" x 1-1/2" SKU 9052598 before, the shafts were hitting on the inside of the lip there. I may put one more in there on each side so they're more in the center.

here's my Real favorite tool

i couldn't resist.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115678 theres a few options, but i'm making mine.

if that doesn't work out you could do something with dual master cylinders. i'm in the process of my conversion. i needed the room for my turbo/wastegate

[sorry for the OT, but did anyone else spot what kind of car this is? ]

Just finished! Kinda. just a few more things to button up. the only issue now is that the holes in the plate are a little far apart, and they're a LITTLE crooked. not sure how to real with that yet. maybe spacers to push the arms further apart on the balance bar.

did some more work today. got the sleeve for the balance bar welded in, cut up the pedal box some more, and got the replacement face welded partway in. i'm takin a break right now. i'll update some more if i get anything else done tonight. the hole near the weld is for the return spring here you can see the clearance with the interior wall. it's fine if i keep the balance bar in the middle, but if i'm going to need to adjust it further that way i'll have to cut out a slot

I've never seen anything like that for any car really. all of the ones i've seen always have the aftermarket steering wheel bolt patterns. you might be able to have one fabricated, or you can try doing it yourself, if you've got the tools and skills.

water pumps maybe? it looks like that passage is coming from where the belts are.

just passing this along, -8 was for sure 3/4" 16 threads and -6 was 7/16" 18 verified correct

is the anodizing still a go?

well i'm giving this one a shot guys. here's a couple pics of the progress Ive made so far. there's a couple reasons i did this. first being that i need more room for how i want to package my turbo/wastegate. second, is that this is going to cost me about the same as restoring the stock system.[new masters/booster, mine were junk] and i've got another pedal box so if i screw up, i'm not ...screwed. to be honest i dont totally understand yet how these are supposed to better for performance braking, so i'll let one of you guys tell me that. oh yeah, and i think they look cool. everything came today. balance bar, remote adjuster, [1] 5/8" master and [1] 3/4" master, all wilwood . here it all is, along with my partly notched pedal box. close up of the parts. the first thing i did was notch the pedal box, for clearance of the balance bar. i made sure before i cut, that the masters would have enough throw. i still have to do a bit on the inside wall. after notching the pedal box, was do some measuring as to where these things were going to go. here is what i came up with. an interesting thing i found out was that the wilwood masters lined up perfectly in the stock holes for the clutch master cylinder. [is this some kind of industry wide bolt pattern? or are we just lucky?] i guess i'll be picking up another one, just for continuity's sake. after that was cutting a hole in the pedal to fit the balance bar. this was by far the hardest part, it took about an hour. all i used was a drill and a round file. close up not welded yet. so next is cutting off the old front, and making a new one for the masters to go through. i should get to that within a few days...

i dont think a 2piece mount has been done before, looks good!

if you look in his sig, it seems that he is somewhere in "Z dreamland" not atlanta.

ok. thanks for that. thats what i always was told. i'm using the fitting for a custom sr20ve [not a typo. ve] fuel rail. its a -8 oring fitting. i guess i'll take it to the hardware store and find out there. do you measure from the outside edge of the threads?

1. bare metal clearcoated. 2. copper paint and let it patina

metallic olive green, kinda like what you see on Hummer's and Xterra's

Another question. About AN taps... I couldn't seem to find any searching online, so are they just the same as their standard equivalent? e.g. a -8AN tap, the same as a 1/2 tap? [because we all know that that -8AN = 8/16"]

that should be "TAMIYA" not "tamaya" i want him to have the right info for a search.