Twoeightnine

Have you considered cutting the compression tube and rewelding it? You would have to trim the rubber?

Really, really nice. You should be proud. The black on red really sets it off also. You cant tell me that ride doesn't turn some heads! May I ask, where did you get the bumpers? Very clean as well! Congrats!!

Dan.. Even the Datsun shop manual mentions the rope technique. The translation is poor, as most Japanese is, and mentions use of multiple persons and rope on the inside rubber. They even have a part number for the rope! Their illustrations are very cartoon like and difficult to grasp. What I am getting from all this is basicly the rope is used to pull the inner rubber flange into the interior of the car, right? What type of rope? how do you get it (the rope) to stay put? Could you expand on this a bit, or is there a sticky? Many thanks,

Thanks for the info. Yes Darrel just PM'ed me about it! Since we are chartering the first Z club here (with Nissan support) We plan to drum up as much member amenities as possible and I think Datsun/Nissan specific tools would be a nice add. Many thanks,

I saw a spindle pin puller offered in the HybridZ classifieds. I sent several e-mails to procure this one, months ago, with out any response. I would like to own one as well. I will be doing other Z's. Tools.....a good thing! Any one have one for sale?

Doesn't say that the motor has ever been in the car. Looks as if the motor would mount direct or with mod'ed upper mounts. Mount integrity could be an issue. At $750 one just may be buying a donor to start over with. Dont see much reason to assume that one would be getting more than a shell out of the deal. look at it that way and it's not a bad deal. Don't forget to keep Alsil in mind, you just might need him in the end!

After looking up some clutch packages it seems to me that what is driving the use of centerforce regardless of its reliability, is its cost. Centerforce is considerably less expensive than most other packages. Would we say that is a fair assessment?

Painfully slow. Three days now. Do we have a bug?

Thanks John. Didn't think that you would throw any theology on me! Can count on some things! Yes OME Motorsports is a safe bet. Was looking for the Holy Grail of small block clutches I suppose. Been out of the build scene for a long time, other than NASCAR, and was basicly searching for the latest and greatest. In the day, at American Muscle- Old School Central, it was BorgWarner and a plate that nearly took both feet to mash the pedal down hanging on a cable retract. Did like to hear the "Boing" when doing a clutch drop. ha! Seems like sufficient Boo's to shy away from the C/F regardless. Thanks again,

I think Im getting excited! Im going out to the garage to do a little fab work! Congrats! And thanks!

Thanks for the shout John. So if I get it correct, your saying that for V8 aplications, 6500 rpm max with average shifts between 4500-5000, the centerforce works fine? The weights, I presume, continually increase clamping pressure all along the RPM curve which hinders high RPM shifts. Are they exponential or one to one? In V8 apllications, hydraulic, do you know if their pressure plates are adequate? In close, what would you do with a torque-ish V8 small block? Many thanks!

Seems some like it some don't. With such a division of opinion it makes one wonder why the disparity? How could it be good for one and a disaster for another? Is it as Speeder said about the diaphram springs lacking adequate low RPM pressure. Are the failures based on a torque threshold? I would like to know the root cause/causes and what to do about it so that after breakin, (motor) I wont be scared to put my foot in it! That being said, is there an all around clutch assembly that everone could agree on. You know, get er done, no horror stories, mucho love, don't leave home with out it clutch assembly!! I'm weak in the clutch dept and would love to know!! Many thanks,

Thanks Dan! I see the numbers are about $400 per year for 25K? Thats what I'm looking for. I have a ground up with goodies going on and it's never been intended to be a daily. Weekend warrior and show hog only! Thanks for the heads up! http://www.hagerty.com/

AK-Z Yes you are correct. The term "U-Channel" is used to discribe the type of excrusion that I was talking about. Its not really rounded like the letter U but squared off with 45 degree chamfered edges. Sort of like the front edge of the hood (bonnet). MastersMechanic, That double grill mod you were talking about sounds good. That pretty much sums up the original design that I had drafted but I was going to use sheet metal and all new mounts. I am concerned about my design not being sterdy enough to keep it from fluttering at speed. The split bumper is a great look! Do you know if the width of the 240 matches the width of the 280 If one did not want to split it? I know that the mounts are different but fabbing new ones is not a problem. Thanks a bunch!

Yes exactly! The car has an undisputed hard value. Performance parts not included. Insurance companies can only be had in the punitive area. They will wiggle and worm about it, but if you stick to your guns and have a Lawyer to waive around they will write a check. As for the 30 year old Z, if one has it restored to "like new condition" regardless of "extras", can one get classic car insurance for it? Does any one know how that works? But I do think that in the above case having an adjuster that is not performance savy may indeed be a blessing! Good luck violacleff!!

"you have there", meant as in your illustration. Regardless, awesome concept. You dont mind if I use it? The design that I laid out originally would probably flutter at high speed as mentioned by 260DET. 3/4 inch .040 wall "U" channel Excrusion most likely would not. If you beat me to it, lets see er! Thanks!

Just noticed that you only have three rails there. Thats only 65 to 70 dollars in excrusion!! Plus labor..your in!!

Yes, yes! Was just thinking of that as well. For me, a compromise in frontal area would be OK. As in, if U channel aluminum was available that would be OK as I would place the radius portion forward. U shape would also allow for a touch better air flow. Not that would be much of an issue any way. Break pressing two inch strips with a .250 radius would be a snap. If you have a break press available with some deep dies, your design would not be too tough as well. Excrusion is the most available type material in the shape that you are looking for but can be spendy. But so is laboring one a$$ off too. If I may ask who made the dam? Looks good. Regardless... Nice design on the grill dude. That is really a nice idea!

wow! Both very nice! Utvolman99, Your design is a totally do-able. Have you considered heavy sheet metal (.050+) that has been break pressed into a channel? Then notch the centers, bend ends in, weld centers back up. Mount on a rack similar to the original, grind the welds, fill and paint. I have not worked on the grill of mine yet (still jacking with the drive line). I had designed a rack type as well but had drawn up using .070 aluminum strips with raidus edges. After seeing yours, I think I might reconsider. Very nice... I'll keep watching!!

Chewievette Welcome back!! I just noticed your sig! "Never left one up there" Love it!!

That makes sense. I kept seeing Kaminari dams pop up on recent post and was wondering where they were comming from. Thanks for the info Bartman! When you going to paint? Can't wait to see the "Dam" thing! Many thanks!

Hey when I was shopping for dams I logged on to the Kaminari site and it states in the first gen area, that they no longer offer products for the 70-78 models. Am I missing something? The MSA dam that I have is not exactly what I wanted and is slatted to be hacked on. A couple of weeks and she goes to paint. I would like to consider the Kaminari. They have a lot of different options that seems to match the old school theam better. Many thanks!

Remember when the R/C car craze erupted? First it was all electric. And of course people started to turn to gas engines for obvious reasons. At the time there were no small gas engines available for cars but there was a near unlimited supply of R/C aircraft engines on the market. Hobbyist began using these engines as a swap into the cars that were manufactured for electric motors. Big fun yes? Well it became apparent real quick that the gas engines were designed for thrust loading and lacked the sack for the torque loads that were being thrown at it. Of course the gas cars were still popular which drove the market to produce car specific engines. There is a significant difference in the internals due to the task that each engine is required to perform. Dont want to repeat history in a more expensive fashion, yes? No flames, just love. You asked!

Dude! Air cooled:nono: Designed primarilly for thrust loading and not for direct torque loads:eek: Did you know that if a prop so much as even strikes an object that the bearings have to be replaced! Bolted to a tranny will cause the main bearing to go in a hurry:confused2 Way too wide!! Shaft miss-match:shock: And the 480 is not a "derated" engine. In fact, thoes engines are on the brink of their capabilities at full power. They are very particular about going out of there design parameters. Ever heard the term "woofed a jug"? "Thermal shock"? They even have a limit on how long they can be run at full power with out flying apart!! From a pressure carb set up to fuel injection!! Yep I would say that you have lost your mind:mrgreen: I do like the air boat Idea! But dont let me stop you, I only hold a Airframe and Powerplant certificate and an Aviation Science Degree. I may be looking at it the wrong way:2thumbs:

Here here! A technical site deserves technically based and constructed dialogue. Whats cool about this site is the diverse areas with which to share information. Even a tool shed! The Moderators and administrators do a fantastic job of sweeping the floor when required. This site sets an example that I wish others would follow. Im very proud to be a member and recomend the site to any Z owner that I encounter. Keep up the good work! Dang me hopes me dent mis ba-spell anyting!