GrayZee

Well there was that ONE little fire... LOL

I know you can get TBi injection systems that look like sidedraft webbers. Don't know where or how much, but I have seen one before.

Ever consider venting your BOV back into your air intake? (assuming you have one and not just a filter) Anyway the unused spray would just get sucked into the engine during deceleration.

That is a injector, Helix your concerns may have been valid in the case of a nozzle being used. I have noticed that nozzles continue to spray long after the pump is shut off. A injector however can stop spraying immediately.

BernardD just did a 11.7@117mph, not bad for a 2+2 280zx/auto with over 200,000km and broken piston skirts! At 3000+lbs it was lovingly named the battlestar galactica.

A generalization is exactly what it was, I do believe that you can increase VI with a turbocharger, it's just that you have to know where to draw the line. Too much boost (or using it too much) isn't good for fuel mileage. I believe that since I turbocharged my Z that the car is both better (and worse on fuel) As long as you drive it nice, it's better, but if you hammer the go pedal than definatly not. However there is likely a reason that the Mecedes "smart car" has a turbo. Building a ultra fuel efficient car is not a easy task. Automotive engineers have fought with that one for decades. It is certainly alot easier to build a faster car than to make it more fuel efficient. I am not saying that you can't do it, I wish you luck and will enjoy reading any updates on your success.

Next can you do a post on how to drop a L28et into a Rx7? LOL, I know a guy that has a RX7 with a L28et that could use the info... Nice work btw.

Yeah, generally turbo's and fuel mileage don't go hand it hand. I doubt water injection would be much of a help in the case of what you are talking about just based on having to hold a extra container full of a heavy liquid. I go though a 1gallon container for roughly one tank of gas, but that is only spraying under boost. I imagine that spaying at a more constant rate as you are suggesting that you would need a much larger reservoir. Definatly not worth the weight penalty.

Damn you guys, looking at your times/mods I think my car needs two things.. better traction, go on a diet and lose some weight. Oh well MSA urethane bumper/spoilers are on the way! BTW, my time is in the sig.

Is that a L24? I think it goes to the carbs (to warm them up in the cold) Been a while since I looked at one of those however..

If it was turbo'd, water injection might allow you to run lower octane (cheaper) fuel..

I know a guy who has a turbo'd pathfinder, I could ask him where he got his flanges from.. LOL Ha ha.. Hoohaa, why didn't you just ask me when we were on the phone? They were rather tricky to design as the ports were not symetrical to each other. Also I seem to remember that it was possible to bolt them on upside down and on the opposite head but the ports were not quite lined up if you did it that way. LOL leave it to Nissan to make a whacky flange design. My buddy probably still has it on AutoCad, and could have some more made up, I'd have to get back to you on a price though.

Ok, well only two wires are actually needed. The 3rd wire is to indicate full throttle position has been achieved. Basically it's just a on/off switch. I imagine the full throttle position is used to turn off any existing air conditioning units to have maximum engine power at full throttle. The wire that actually gets used by the ecu is to indicate that the engine has no throttle input and is essentially idling. Otherwise known as "limp mode" The ecu just uses a very basic program to make the car idle. Once the TPS is opened the fuel/timing maps take over and adjust to the varying condtions. The third wire is simply the common connection between the other two wires. One time I hooked up the common wire correctly but had the other one hooked to the wrong terminal. The engine ran fine until you put the hammer down and the car lost ALL power, because the ecu thought that the engine was in idle mode. Ha ha.. took a couple of days to figure that one out!

Ha ha ha... actually guys I recently upgraded my compressor housing using a compressor wheel that looked just like that! I used a dremel sanding disk to take the burrs off and I went from a 14.1 to a 13.4 in the quarter! Mind you my housing didn't look anywhere near that bad and I was using the same bearing assembly so it wasn't trashed.

Yeah, just run a 240sx one.

Ha ha ha.. That would be easy to wire up but I would suggest a couple of amps, subs ect. to make sure you had the volume required to overcome the decibels from your wife. Let me know if you are interested and I'll email you a scematic. LOL

Yeah, actually when I added my second pump I had to take it apart as it was not working. I was amazed how minty the inside of the electric motor looked. I guess over 20+ years how much use does a headlight washer really get anyway? Turned out that the rubber vanes on the pump were just dry and needed some priming. Just letting fluid gravity feed into it wasn't enough, I actually had to fill a hose with water going to the input and blow through it with my mouth. After a minute I could see water seeping out of the oulet. After that the pump worked perfectly. Later on I looked at a pump that my buddy had but said didn't work. Turned out I got it working too, it was suffering from the same problem. Next summer I plan to upgrade to a Shurflo pump as I'm also getting a bigger turbo and will be running higher boost (maybe around 20+psi) As the charge pipe pressure rises I think I'll need a higher pressure pump to overcome the pressure in the charge pipe and still spray nicely. The headlight washer will only give me about 55psi and I'll be wanting more. For 15psi of boost, I would say the headlight washer pump works just fine and likely will have a long lifespan yet.

Ha ha ha.. Strange problem huh? Well actually it's on purpose.. See I recently upgraded my alky injection system to run two separate pumps. The first one kicks in at 5psi and the second one kicks in at 12psi to run a auxilary sprayer. During the install I was thinking about what a PITA it is to always turn the stereo off everytime I plan on driving my car hard (I like to hear the engine while under heavy boost) Never know when you might hear something bad.. (like pinging) Anyway, I had the idea to run my stereo's power through the 12psi pump relay. The stereo gets the output power normally and when the 12psi switch is triggered, it energizes the relay and breaks the circuit, and transfers it over to the sprayer pump. The power recieved comes directly from the battery so I run a second relay just before the stereo to break the circuit unless the key is turned to ACC or ON. I'm surprised how well it works! A friend said it would be annoying having the stereo cut out everytime you got on the boost. Well under any boost at all, I would agree, but at 12psi my thoughts turn to the road. The fact the stereo cuts out is something that I don't even notice until it comes on again, and it's volume switch is the type that slowly goes back to it's set volume whenever it is turned back on. This way I always get to hear the engine over the stereo without always having to make a point of turning it off first.

Pics are here.. http://www.members.shaw.ca/icecube/PathyPipes/

I just purchased a turbo from a 7.3 liter Ford diesel. It has a internal wastegate but I plan on converting it by removing the old wastegate housing and intstalling a laser-cut plate that will have two holes in it. One will be for the exhaust to exit to the downpipe, and there will be another smaller hole where the wastegate puck used to be.. That will be routed to a external wastegate via a 1.5" exhaust pipe. After the wastegate it will be routed back to merge with the downpipe. I figure with a Tial wastegate on a L28et in a early Z there will be tons of room for a setup like that.

A L6 is longer than a V8, there isn't any room for that. On another note, I went to a rad shop that does alot of work with intercoolers and fabrication. I know the owners so I went to visit as ask for their "professional opinion" Well they seem to figure as long as I have a good quality aluminum core it shouldn't be a problem. So I'm gonna try to find some cores to work with a maybe build up something for you guys to see next summer.

Yes, I thought of that problem as well. Perhaps it will be a problem, pehaps not. I will say that I've seen this idea used before on heavy trucks. Not sure what the application was (pehaps Volvo?) Whoever it was, their engineers must have weighed out the pros and cons. Remember the setup I'm talking about would have the benifit of a puller fan with shroud directly behind it. Typical Z IC setups do not have that as a advantage. I am more concerned about not cooling the engine rather than IC efficiency. I don't expect the best IC setup, just something better than not having one at all. I can always do some additional charged air cooling with some help from my alcky injection system. Some sort of heat isolator between the rad and IC certainly wouldn't hurt either.

What do you guys think of this idea?... You place a intercooler in the same place the radiator goes on a early Z. However it is only 1/3rd of the width of the normal rad and flows up and down. This way there is very little IC plumbing at all. The remaining 2/3rds of space on the right side would be filled by a custom rad with a very high quality core for the best cooling possible considering you've lost alot of cooling surface area. If the rad proves to not cool enough then you could add a auxilary rad between the bumper and rad/IC. Something perhaps shorter but as wide as possible. This setup would be made to use the stock fan and shroud. However the fan would be benifiting the IC as well. My main question is.. Do you think it is possible to cool the engine when you've lost surface area even if the core has been upgraded?

a POV and BOV are different things with different purposes... a POV (pop off valve) is a valve at the rear of factory turbo L and Vg engines that blows open when the boost pressure reaches too high a pressure a BOV (blow off valve) is to prevent backflow of air to the turbocharger when the throttle is let off.

Although I have never actually seen a 81 CAS sensor, I understand that they use the same plug as a 82/83. Aside from that I can imagine too many other problems.