GrayZee

Could you tell me a little more about that engine? There is someone locally that has a D16y8 head for sale cheap. Does the head just bolt on? Any mods that need to be done?

A friend of mine has a Civic Sir with a B16 and I love the way is sounds when the Vtec hits. It's a nice deep roar, not some cheezy fart can sound. However the thing has no low end torque at all. You have the rev the hell out of it to make any kind of power. Being the cheap SOB that I am, I don't wanna spend over $1000 on a engine, and I figure that a turbo D engine will probably make more power overall and have better low end torque. If I pick up a HF manifold at the wreckers (for probably $10) and make the adapter plate the swap can be done on a really tight budget. In fact I think I'll make a game out of how little I can spend... Ha ha ha.. The ZC swap sounds like a good plan, but I think I'll go that route AFTER I blow the original motor from boosting it. LOL It should be easy enough to swap the turbo stuff to a ZC afterwards. Thanks for the link Mikelly, finding acurate info is always a problem with Hondas. I mean most of those forums are full of 16 year old kids talking smack, and don't have any real knowledge. It's sad to have to come here asking for info on a Z site but at least I know most people here have a good idea what they are talking about Does anyone know a good link for info on D series engines? Turbo ones in particular?

I recently picked up a 88 Crx. It needs a fair bit of fixing up but I got it really cheap so I guess that's ok.. I'm a little unsure about the model, it's SUPPOSED to be a Si but I have my doubts. It does have a multiport intake but it also has a auto trans and drums for rear brakes. I have by no means a expert on Honda's but I thought all Si's had 5-speeds and 4 wheels discs. Anyway, I got it to be a daily driver that won't suck back the fuel like my other cars.. plus I've always had a soft spot for those little cars (although never as much as the Z) I haven't had a chance to put it on the road yet, but I'm thinking that with a auto trans it will be a little bagged in the power department. So I was thinking about what I can do to remedy that without going too crazy. I also wanna keep the auto trans (the gf likes it and a change from always driving stick is nice too) A friend suggested a B series engine swap but that seems a little more pricey than I would want to go. I read up on how easy it is to turbocharge a D series engine and I think I might just do it. Unfortunatly I have found that it is not very easy to find comprehensive info on Honda's. So I was wondering if anyone here could give me any insight. Some of the things I am wondering about is... How much power do you think you can put to a D16 safely? How much can the auto trans take? What sort of limits are there on the stock injectors/ecu ect.. Thanks in advance..

I know alot of you guys never had (or never will) have to deal with this problem but it is more of a passing thought.. Perhaps the guys that live further north could chime in.. How do you guys think of cheapo studded tires vs. a higher end ice radial?

Did he go to the Nissan dealer and get a price quote on a brand new one? Perhaps it was $1000 and he figured that his must be worth that too...

Perhaps it was the washer fluid he's been spraying in there. LOL

Hmm... not good, I have the antidote however.. I still have that 460 ford laying around.. 390ft/lbs @ 2000rpm...

I'm not sure (they were given to me) I think they were a #3 and a #5, but I could be wrong. They came from coolingmist.com

yeah a cc (cubic centimeter) and a ml (mililiter) are the same thing. Nice and simple.

Well I wouldn't say it wasn't good for ANY boosted application.. but it definatly won't work with THAT particular type of ecu. As for the oil shaft drive, it IS a different part but I read recently that if you drill out the star pattern from the bottom of the dizzy, n/a shaft will work.

Thanks for the kind comments.. Yeah, I had nothing better to do that day as I live in Canada and the roads here will be ice and snow covered til about April. I was at home on the computer when I wished that I was out driving me Z! I wish I could move to Texas every winter, and back up here in the summer to avoid your crazy heat. That way, I could drive the Z all the time! just one note for future reference.. it may sound like "a" but in print it is "eh"

I know this comment isn't really about racing but... I live in a part of the world where the roads can be covered with ice for half the year. As a result people that live here generally have alot of skill when it comes to driving on ice compared to people that never or rarely see ice. It has been my experience that ABS is good for a less skilled driver and in certain panic situations that require steering out of the way of danger while braking at the same time. However I think that in most situations I would rather not have ABS as I can stop a vehicle faster and in a shorter distance, (even on ice) without it.

The CAS uses a light emiting diode (LED) to flash a light through the holes in the CAS wheel. The pattern of light on the other side gets read by the sensor to figure out the crank position and rpm. That's a very basic definition of how it works, nothing to do with magnets like the older systems.

U series motors are from a sp311 correct? I don't imagine there are alot of parts available for that engine (I could be wrong) but many years ago, my high school auto shop teacher had a late 60's honda (600cc car) He swapped in a U series engine, turbocharged it, ran water injection and managed to pull a time in the 12's Not bad considering it was done in the early 80's

and what made you go and check the efi relay? LOL

So you are saying that this problem happened with both your SU's and Webbers? cuz my first guess would be a problem with the carb's accelerator pump.

Ha ha ha.. AMEN brother!

Honestly I doubt it's the CAS. I have seen this problem more than once and I've changed CAS sensors before with no positive results. Actually I doubt it is common at all for them to fail. I have found it to usually wiring related. Big Phil PM'd me last night to tell me that his car is still messed up, his problem went away after fixing the CAS but came back. Likely just dumb luck that it ran good for a little while. I would even suspect a bad AFM over the CAS, but my money is on the wiring. I have a 83turbo AFM and ECU leftover from my z31/MAF swap.. and if you want a CAS I can tell you that any Vg30 CAS can easily be made to fit a L28et dizzy, but you have got the crank mounted CAS correct?

ditto hey, what size hot side intercooler pipe do you need? 2.25?

I can't remember the exact details, but mine was kinda buggered up/and or missing when I got my car. I know I ended up finding a B210 or 210 in the wrecking yard. I know I had to make some slight modification, but I did end up getting it to work well. Just a thought, if you happen to be able to find any old Datsun in the wreckers.

Yes, it's a 3 pin connector, but usually there are only two pins that are used (unless it's a auto?)

Don't pay any attention to that bit with the alighnment rod. It is only useful to set the distributor up for the first time. Just adjust the timing the way you would in any other car. Hookup a timing light and loosen the two 10mm bolts holding the dizzy. Unplug the TPS sensor and use a small wire to cross the two terminals on the TPS plug. (this will take the ecu out of idle mode and allow the proper timing to be read) Turn the dizzy untill you reach the desired timing points. Tighten the dizzy bolts. Re-check timing to make sure the dizzy didn't move during your bolt tightening. I don't recall the timing degrees it says in the book, however.. you may want to play around with advancing it further a little bit at a time. Every time checking that there is no knock under heavy throttle. I know with my z31 ecu I was able to have the timing so advanced that the marks where about 10 degrees right off the scale. Of course the car had ALOT more pickup with those settings. Not sure how the L28et ecu will react, but you may want to look into it.

I think I ran about 12psi on a z31 ecu, but that's kinda playing with fire I think. To do it safely you can go one of two routes.. . 1. Upgrade the injectors (which also requires re-tuning the ecu) AND get a intercooler. or... 2. Get a alky injection setup like the one I posted about, it's alot cheaper. The alky spray will cool the air charge AND spike the fuel mixture to richen it up under boost. I ran 15psi no problem on a stock 84zxt ecu with stock injectors and no intercooler. Oh, and if you are gonna run that much boost I think you'll need a blow off valve too.. otherwise the backpressure could damage your turbo.