GrayZee

C= california model F= federal I believe

what car?

For a L28et I would say the 3.54 gear is the right choice as that engine has alot of torque but only about 6k rpm to work with. For a Rb, a 4.11 might work well seeing that you have alot more rpms available between gear shifts. As long as you don't put yourself in a position where you find yourself shifting into 5th at the end of the quarter.

Thought of a couple more.. air nibbler air punch/flange tool

I hate you guys from the southwest, always showing off about how rust free your cars are. Ha ha.. Seriously though, around here unless the car is less than 10 years old rust repairs are RARELY that minor. Although from what I have heard down there restoring a car has alot more to do with replacing rubber/plastic parts that the heat/UV ray have destroyed. Great replies guys, keep them coming!

What tools do you guys think are needed to fabricate replacement panels? Obviously a mig welder is number 1 on the list but I'm wondering what tools you would use from the must haves to the luxury tools, a example of a luxury tool would be a plasma cutter. example: mig welder tap measure aviation snips air shear body hammers body dollies metal brake metal roller plasma cutter what am I missing?

Sounds like you might have air flow meter issues

I don't know where the markings are but I believe the Hayne's service manuals used to tell you where to find the numbers near the front of the book. Assuming it IS from a 240z it SHOULD be a 3n71b

1. is your coil/ignitor grounded? 2. with the ignition on do you get +12v at the + side of the coil? 3. did you hook up the yellow wire from the ecu to the coil ignitor properly?

Aem is a nice unit, plug and play and all the bells.

Yeah you need any of the following 280zx turbo flywheel 280zx 2+2 flywheel (n/a or turbo) and... I believe any Vg30 flywheel will work also.

I bought a lincoln migpak 180 this summer, it comes with a gas kit and two spools of wire (one for gas, the other for flux) I tried the flux out cuz I didn't have the bottle yet. I did a floor repair with 22 gauge and found it very difficult to weld to the body of the car without blowing holes. I did manage to finish the job but it was dirty. I did the other side after getting some mig gas and oh man what a difference! Where I was blowing holes before just doing tacks, I could lay down a nice bead on that sheet metal. The gas helps cool it down a bit. Unfortunatly my welder only has the ABCDE power settings but it does have variable wire speed. I am still learning (and have a long way to go) but I was watching my buddy weld some 22 gauge at like setting B or C and a fast wire speed (about 5?) and he could lay down a nice bead but he had to pass over it FAST! Flux core sucks compared to gas, the only use for flux is welding outside on a windy day.

My 280z was in need of a new master cylinder, the previous owner removed it (cutting the brake lines right off with a pair of side cutters) but it was ok cuz he had a replacement one in a box in the hatch (it was a junkyard pull 280zx master with a different bolt pattern)

Not 100% sure but I think the two small greens is for those annoying buzzers that tell you that your key is in the ignition/seatbelt not on. I do know they aren't that important. The important ones are: BATT ACC IGN START RUN (all this one does is tell the ecu to enrichen the mixture during startup)

I am pretty sure no z31 ecu has Consult. The M30 is a good option though.. z32's can be used but that is a little more involved. CAS sensor mods, coil on plug, ect. I have a socketed M30 ecu if you are interested.

Well you could, but a z31 harness is taylor made to connect to a V6 engine. The injector plugs, maf, chts, ect would all be in the wrong place. You would have to modify it quite a bit to make it fit the straight 6 properly. A 82/83 harness would be your best bet IMO

This is true, however you will not get the boost to come on nearly as fast as you would with some sort of boost controller. You can run stockish boost with a external gate as long as you use the right spring but if the turbo is alot larger than stock you might get boost creep higher up in the rpm range, if it is quite a large turbo you might wanna look at something bigger than a 38mm wastegate. As big turbo's and low boost dont exactly work that well together. Electronic boost controllers are great, no doubt about that, but it's all about how much money you want to spend. The primitave manual style controllers do work quite well especially when they cost only a tiny percentage of a good electronic one.

I can tell you how to get boost VERY fast, but the problem would be keeping it below 8psi. A checkball style manual boost controller will make the boost HAMMER on! My experience is that it does not really matter if you set it 10 or 20psi it's ability to increase boost response is the same, but even at it's lowest setting it will increase boost slightly. My advise is to run it stock until you get your ecu/chassis issues sorted out and get a cheap manual boost controller like this: http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html You can get those on ebay for like $10

This thread is getting a little old now but I just read it. I have seen that on a RB26, turned out to be the rear turbine broke right off. With the rear compressor not turning the air would back up from the front turbo and blow out the air filter. Does your car otherwise run ok? I hope thats not a similar issue? I doubt it as you say it alternates...

In regards to welding the flapper... I removed mine entirely and ran a 3/8th npt tap in the hole and and screwed in a pipe plug. Worked great.

Another option would be to use 2.5" piping on your cold side pipe rather than 2" Get a 2" to 2.5" reducer at the IC and then a 2.5 to 2.75 at your TB. These couplers can be found in straight, 45, or 90's.. I get all that stuff from siliconintakes.com

Agreed

I just noticed this post, very nice helpful info.. I have used this swap as well with success. I would like to point out that other coil ignitors can also be used if that one is not readily available. Lately I have been using a Nissan ignitor with 3 wires. They are found on many models.. Pathfinder, 240sx, Sentra, D20 truck, Access.. probably others as well. One wire goes to the ecu, one to the coil negative, and the last one is grounded.

That dizzy isn't the easiest one to find but you don't need to replace the whole thing. Can you find a Vg30 dizzy at a local wrecker? You can swap out the guts into your dizzy. They bolt right in.

A little flammage out your tail pipe is also good if you are looking to acheive the ricer effect.