desert dog

Does the R230 diff come in any other car besides the '90 to '96 300ZXTT? Very few of these cars in the junk yard, at least in NM...

To add to this, the numbers in the diff name, i.e., R200, R230, etc..., is the diameter of the ring gear in millimeters.

The VG30DE would be a VERY tight fit in an S30. That DOHC motor is WIDE and TALL...

All VG30DE and VG30DETT crankshafts are forged as well are the rods... been there, done that.

As soon as I read 327 from 1969 , I thought to myself... ???? Then I saw the words Biscayne and Powerglide... "utilomotor", or "smallblockus commonus" As other have said here, that is like finding a Chevy Citation (woo hoo!) The HP 327's are getting extremely hard to find, and if you do, very pricey...

I am not telling you not to do it. I know where a 2+0 NA shell is RIGHT NOW for $1200. Everything but the engine. I will be the first one to tell you "go LS(X)", because the VG30DETT IS so hard to work on and the vendors think all the parts are gold plated.... BUT, just be aware of all the things you will have to do to put domestic power in a Z32... Mr. Kelly I am in no way a purist. That is why I am here.... Owen, just remember, the Z32TT's ARE rare, and they will continue to hold their value very well, in stock form. Anyway, don't let folks on an internet forum sway you from what you really want to do. There are a few people who are horrified that I am going to hybridize such a nice, clean, and almost rust-free car as my orange '73 is... Mike

www.samco.com It isn't rubber (silicone) but they have about every size and shape...

what he said ^^^^ I couldn't have said that any better myself.... Hey tannji, when you get settled at the CO/NM border, e-mail me and we can meet if you like. Not many Z fanatics here, especially S30's. dr_hunt, if you are ever going to be in the Rio Rancho area, let me know, especially if you want some FREE S30 or Z32 parts. Like I told tannji, not many Z mavens here. John, good luck on your search, but I have found my home, and it sits on desert sand.... Mike

Grumpyvette, you are the man... My trick is to pull the oil pan and pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly and pour oil though the galleries until it backs up. It requires a little less oil than a case... Marvel Mystery Oil is one of the great automotive inventions of all time. I am always finding uses for a high surface tension, premium quality oil. I also use Birchwood Casey 'Sheath' gun oil on the cylinders. This polar oil eliminates any chance of rust or oxidation, and is fairly inexpensive for what it is... Always, always, bag the motor to keep moisture out.... Always. Good thread... Mike

Check that answer I gave. I forget not everyone lives 1 mile above sea level... We have to change jets in EVERYTHING, and it is guaranteed that any spring in a carburetor will be the wrong tension...

John you would hate it here in Albuquerque... Housing is $100 a square foot, it is dry, your cars never rust, and our new raceway just west of town is just horrible... Traffic here is terrible.... Nah, you really shouldn't even consider it...

Me too... I am a 'supercar' kind of guy...

I have a set of '72's I will let go for a song. I need to remove them from my parts car though... Let me know... Mike

Excellent!!! That is one sweet old Skyline... Ha, ha, ha... That is what my wife calls the 240...

Vibration is also an aluminum radiator killer. Isolate, isolate, isolate... Nice work though.

The European market Z32 diffs had a oil cooling setup with a pump and "radiator" as OEM equipment. It is interesting it was only offered for that market. To me it looks like added weight for a minimal gain. When I was involved in circle track cars back in the '70's, we never worried about differential overheating, we were much more worried about the engines... Good luck on whatever you decide. Mike

Buy the adjustable kit for the AVS carb. It comes with all the different step springs. It sounds like the step springs on the rods are not strong enough, and the signal to enrichen as the throttle blade is opened is not happening...

Cool thanks for the info. I just didn't want to accidentally throw away something someone might want for a restoration, should I not be able to get rid of it...

I mean other than it probably was originally in a '70... The worn L24 in my '73 project car has a serial # of 009196.

Gearwrench!!!! Most awesome tool invention in the last 20 years... Get you a 5/8" and a 13/16"...

A 400 block and 350 crank net 377 ci. In every test I have seen, the 383 (350 block, 400 crank) eats its lunch at pretty much any RPM. Spinning any small block at 8000 RPM's does not do it any favors, especially if you are driving it everyday. Based on Grumpy's figures, your 302 will be almost all top end with very little low and only a little more at mid. It will be a spark plug fouling stone... Find you a nice 383 or even an LS motor.

I have a set of pedals for a '72...

The car is finally home... I was very glad to find these in the trunk of the parts car: More pictures later. Very little rust. Passenger side front fender has a few perforated spots, and a very light surface rust is on the inside of the bumpers. Absolutely no rust in the hatch area or the floorboards!!! YES! Mike

Well the car is now in my driveway. It was too dark once it was here to get any pics. I will be snapping some in the morning though...

Bring the 240z with you to NM... And I found the only rust-free 240Z I know of. It is in my garage...