desert dog

Is there any inherent advantages to tension mounting? Nissan changed from compression to tension on the S130, and all Z's since are tension rod design front suspension. What I can see, the tension mount would be a sturdier design... Any thoughts?

Change your spark plugs. If the engine is really carboned up from use, the Seafoam will break it all loose and foul your plugs... Been there, done that.

Porsche = expensive d*** parts! I have seen a couple of hybrid 944's with domestic iron in them. I have a friend with a 944S that is really fast and handles really well, but he seems to have to work on it a lot...

Very nice. How thick of steel is that made of? Looks substantial... Mike

Disco potato??? If you expect to get cognizant answers from the folks on this board, please utilize the correct terminology for sub-components of your engine. The correct nomenclature is "turbosupercharger". What year car do you have? You gave us absolutely no information other than it is a 3.0 SOHC... Welcome aboard... I think. Mike

Please search. I found this in like two seconds... it is a sticky at the top of this page. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97369

I don't have that luxury. I got news for ya, a CNC machine is only as good as it's programming. Give me a manual lathe or mill with power feed over a CNC anyday. I wish I could have afforded some larger equipment. I wanted a geared head lathe long enough to do gun barrel contours and chambering, and a Bridgeport clone, but I didn't have $10K to spend... I also had to buy lots of tooling. The tooling costs almost as much as the machine did... I did still have all my measurement tools though. Starrett is my friend. :mrgreen: Mike

I have been working with my new lathe/mill, and seem to remember all of my machinist's skills from the late '70's... So I am offering my services for small parts that can be fabricated for the cost of the materials and a very small fee for my time. I am not in this to make money, but need more practice. I wish I had a dividing head... And my 240 project has been put on hold for the moment pending funds... I love working metals and plastics with my new toy... E-mail me if you have something to fabricate. Fair warning now, I do not work titanium, but just about everything else... Let me know... Mike

Check out this thread. The R230 is the diff on the right. It has 6 bolt flanges... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103512 There is a guy on 300ZXclub putting down over 700 RWHP in a Z32 with no diff issues. I am putting a Z32TT rear diff in my project 240. I think I am going to build a cradle to hold it like another member did. I never have liked the "hung" mounting of the rear diff on the old Z's. The R230 is a monster diff, and you have to clearance the body quite a bit just to get it to fit and not hangout the bottom of the car, and to keep your half-shaft angles at a tolerable level.

I am usually the one all my friends come to, to help "diagnose" problems with their cars, be it Japanese, American, German, Italian, English, etc... I have some friends at work that are serious gearheads as well, but outside of work we do not hang out as family trumps car stuff every time. We have planned get-togethers but it seems to be an elusive plan. I have help with my two sons, 21 and 23, and all their gearhead and ricer buddies, when I need more than a pair of extra hands. In fact, on weekends there is almost always somebody hanging around either looking for parts, or wanting to know what I would charge to fabricate this or that, or wantinf advice on what to do about "that noise"... I have other friends that own machine and body shops that will do work for me at a discount price, but no free lunch. Again, we have swapped labor a few times on some projects, but those are rare. Most of the time though it is just me in the garage wrenching on the Z32, or somebody else's Z, or working on the drivetrain layout design on the S30, or PM on the Power Wagon....

VG30DETT - 526 lbs. with all accessories attached The reason they are so heavy is the four robust camshafts. I bet those cams weigh close to 20 lbs apiece. Even the NA VG30DE is a heavy bastard... Those wide heads (the engine is wider than a 454 Chevy!) and the prodigious weight makes this engine not a very good swap candidate. Oh yeah, also, you have to replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Not a 15 minute job either.

Good advice all... And check to make sure you have no vacuum leaks. I had a seriously modified 350 SBC and used a Holley 4777 650 DP. It was plenty of fuel for the engine's 7100 RPM redline...

Decent, and cracked. you can have it though.

Hey SportZ2, if you need Z parts, I have a whole '72 parts car that is going to be parted out. We are in the same neighborhood too... Cool, I am glad to see the car didn't get to meet Mr. Crusher... Mission accomplished...

To some people the SR20 is the do-all be-all engine. Now if they would have said a Titan with a blown 572....

The VG30DETT rods are beefy. Especially after comparing it and the pistons to other VG30 components. The crank end of the Maxima rod looks to be substantial as well. From what I have read the VG30DETT rods are the same as the VG30DE's... Nice pics...

Not necessarily a "rat rod", but I have built and help build a lot of cars. My favorite so far was a '50 Mercury with a 514ci big block in it. It was chopped in 12 places. One of my good friends is building a '36 Dodge "club cab" pickup with a 318 in it. Another is working a '48 Cadillac limo with a Northstar in it... Yet another is building a chopped '58 Chevy pickup with C4 Corvette drivetrain... Yep, street rods are in my blood...

Give this guy a call he is desperate to lose this car. If someone doesn't get it, it will most likely go for scrap. Yes, is has a clear title. 505-304-3978

The car is a 260Z two-seater, still the original white. Here is what is missing from what I could tell: Speedometer Column covers Door panels (inside) Door external hardware (inside handles) Seats (Ist gen MR2 seats) Upolstery is trashed. Left front turn signal cracked Center console broken Shift knob Steering wheel The exterior is fine, with a few small dents and surface rust on the hood where someone took the paint off. It has been exposed to the weather on the inside as the passenger door window is gone. The floorboards are rusty (aren't they all?) but no rust around the hatch, and a little surface rust here and there. The wheelwells look good. It has the early round top carburetors as well. Engine compartment is complete. Well worth $300

Supposedly this guy is driving down from Taos to buy it. He was an hour late when I talked to the owner last. I am going to go look in the morning. He says it is partially taken apart. We shall see. Mike

In the Sunday Albuquerque Journal there is a '74 260Z for $300 that the ad says needs electrical work. I don't know if anyone would be interested but I could follow it up if anyone does... This is a public service announcement... If I had the funds right now (and the space) I would buy it. Mike

I love it!!! The same project as mine except it is a 280 instead of a 240! Mike is making my project much easier. Excellent work BTW... Mike

You want good advice from me on a car forum? You better at LEAST punctuate your run-on paragraphs. If I see a big long paragraph with no punctuation, I don't even try to read it. I end up reading a bunch of lines over and over. If you want info, make it LEGIBLE. Spelling is kind of secondary. I know most people nowadays don't care, and the media makes sure the masses remain confused with their "creative" ways of spelling things sometimes... Regarding internet slang, i.e., U, RU, etc..., some are easy to figure out, some just make a confusing sentence even more so. To me, if you don't care what you post looks like, don't feel bad when someone on the board thinks you are mentally challenged, and expect the response you will most likely get. BTW, on the 300ZXclub board, my favorite response to a long non-punctuated paragraph is, "Hey, did you know the comma, period, semi-colon and colon keys are working on your keyboard? You might want to check it out." I am starting to digress though... Mike

Or, go to your local seal distributor after measuring the inner shaft and outer housing inside dimensions and match the up with the appropriate correct size seal. I have found many cross compatible seals that way. Most seals have their dimensions printed on them... Mike

The vac pump at Auto Zone (manual hand pump I was speaking of) is $25. It is also good for a lot of other things, like checking diaphragm actuators and brake boosters, as well as PCV's. Good money spent IMO, and it does not leave micro bubbles of air in the caliper like can happen if you do the pump and bleed too vigorously, or if your car is one of those with the brake lines that go every which way getting to the wheel cylinder... This is a hybrid car forum... Tools are GOOD...