SpeedRacer

Hi Dale - can't find my specs. on the offset but..... Without pulling the rim off (sorry it's kinda late tonight)I measure about 1 7/8" from the back of the rim to the mounting face. So, 10" rim, C/L 5" would make offset about 3 1/8". Let me know if you need it closer because I pull the rim and get you a better measurement. BTW, I think Dayton will make wheels with a different offset if you want them. Hope this helps.

Good looking GTO Jay and welcome to Hybrid Z! You might be able to get reman. side marker here http://www.ferraripartsexchange.com/sidemarkers.htm I agree with Tomahawk Z - ya need a V8 (or a V12!). Hey, do you guys think we can talk the HybridZ moderators into a Body Kit/Kit Car section?

Ashe - I have the Dayton wire wheels on my car that are 8" up front and 10" wide on the rear. I have no problems at all. There really isn't that much offset on the fronts. There is a couple of additional inches of offset in the rear but it has not caused any problems that I am aware of. PS Build one - you will love it!!!!

I had a '90 Z32 and it did not have an air bag. The steering wheel was much nicer then the one on my '94 TT that did have an air bag.

Don't know if this will fit a 280ZX (here in the US it fit's up to 280Z) but they might be able to help http://www.classicrevival.com.au/classicrevival/

Hey chelle - that a great look'in Alpha 1 GTO you have there. Did you build it and what do you have under the hood? How long have you owned it?

Man, does that thing look AWESOME Ron!!!! That paint job has to be worth at least another .2 sec.

Yup - check out my car on this site under "Featured Cars" and you will find links to Stable Autoworks, Thunder Ranch and VR Engineering at the bottom of the article. I think VR has coupe version available (John Washington are you here?). Obviously mine is already complete but there are a few guys here that are currently building their GTO's so let us know if we can help with any questions.

I've rebuilt the guts of the door (requlators, run channels, rollers) on my '71 Z but both windows rattle when they are down. Are there two rollers (one front and one rear) per window or just one? If just one, is it located in the front or back? Any other suggestions? Thanks!

ZSpeed - I had to adapt a '73 and up dash to my '71 because the fiberglass shell I bought from VR Engineering only fits '73 - '78 cars. It was a ton of work because the steering column is on a different angle and the whole center portion with the HVAC controls and vents is different. Sorry.

If you take it to your local Gas Tank Renu dealer http://www.gastankrenu.com/welcome.htm he will actually blast & boil the tank, cut open the top, cover up the inlets/outlets, weld up any major holes, PVC plastic coat the whole inside and bake it in an oven. Then he will weld up the openings that he cut in the top and coat the whole outside with black PVC and bake again. Whole thing cost me $125 and it's warranted for life.

I agree with John C - if ya got a few bucks then drop in the small MSD billet distributor http://www.msdignition.com/ part number 8570 (about half way down the Chevy page. I had trouble with the size of the stock (non-HEI) distributor because of the Tri-power on my car so I switched to this distributor. It's like half the size of an HEI unit but, since it's MSD, it really works great. Sounds like a lot of work when installing a new distributor should fix the problem.

Staledale - Call me Speed or Dick (I've been called worse) but definitely not Mr.!!! Really sorry to hear about all your disk problems. It must be quite literally a pain. For the rear quarter windows I mig welded in a piece of ~4-5†wide sheet metal (I think 14 gage) that was bent ninety degrees on a brake. It's welded at the top and the bottom in a position so the fiberglass rear clip just wraps around it. On my kit the fiberglass blends into the roof from the top of the door opening in the rear to the corner of the hatch opening. For the inside, my kit came with a black gel coated (with vinyl texture) filler panel that screws in place. If you don't have these I'd check with Jeff at Stable Autoworks and see if you can buy them. They really look great and give the inside a professional finish. To close in the old taillight openings I just took some flat 1/4" fiberglass, cut it to fit, sealed it with RTV and screwed in place. Not real fancy but at the bottom of the hatch opening on each side I drilled a 1/4" hole and the water just drains out the bottom of the car. Water inside that hatch isn't a problem because of all the weather-strip. BTW, for those of you that are interested here are a list and some pictures of just about ever 250 GTO made. http://www.barchetta.cc/english/All.Ferraris/summary/SN.250.GTO.62.htm Yeah, it would be kind of neat to have our own GTO forum but I don't know who has the time to maintain it. Maybe some day John Washington will add it and the registry info to the GTO Replica Register site http://www.gtorr.com/ For now I hope Super Dan doesn't mind us using this one. Wow, great shot of the Jag engine - I still think you should do it. It would be awesome looking and oh, the sound of a V12!!!

I wired my car with the 18 circuit Painless kit and it worked out really well. You could probably do it with fewer circuits but it depends on your options. Anyway, I mounted the fuse box on the left (drivers) kick panel just above the dead pedal. I then strung the wires out from there. And yes, for some things you can cut off the old connector or harness. For instance, I cut off the old steering column harness and spliced it to the new one. Ron Francis also makes some really nice wiring kits. BTW, don't believe the "Painless" part. Doesn't matter if you use a, or do it yourself - rewiring a car is a pain.

Thanks for the very nice compliments on my car staledale!!! I am starting to get a little embarrassed here. BTW, I've got a friend at work that is a semi-pro photographer and he is dying to take pictures of my car. So, as soon as this nasty winter weather (it's 19 degrees right now) goes away, I plan on getting some really good shots of the car. I’ll send you a few if you want them. I still think the Jag V12 would be awesome. So, how is the car coming? Chris, I’m afraid the guys are right. Ferrari never made a convertible (Spyder) version of the 250 GTO. They only one I have seen is a custom replica built on a real Ferrari and owned by the ZZ Top drummer, Frank Beard http://www.conceptcarz.com/carChosen.asp?car_id=605 BTW, I think I'm getting pretty close to 400 HP out of my little 327 and have had no problems with the Dayton wire wheels. Of course my engine is probably down on torque compared to most 350+ CID motors. Please stay in touch guys and let me know if I can be of any help.

z ya - Sorry, but you can't just switch the cylinders (Reservoirs) because the master cylinder design is slightly different. I ran into that with my car too. However, the good news is, that you can switch the lines. With very little effort you can carefully rebend the lines so you can reverse which end of the master cylinder they go into.

I thought that might be what you are looking for Chris. Somebody mentioned El cheapo (and they may look a bit like that) but the lenses are real glass and they go for $210 - $240 EACH! Don't forget the teardrop front side markers at $220 each. Now that I scared you with the price, here is a link to the real ones http://www.ferraripartsexchange.com/lensesandlights.htm You can also try Jim Simpson and see if he can round up some good used ones. http://www.simpsondesign.net/ I bought my replica hood hold-downs, wire wheels, Nardi steering wheel from Jim. He also installed the bezel and provided the hardware for my headlight covers. The L-488 and L539 sure look close but it's hard to tell from a picture. FYI - mine are 3 3/8" in dia. and stick out 2 1/4". It's hard to measure the mounting surface because of the curve in the sculpting at the bottom but, where my lights are mounted, I have 8 3/4" of mounting surface from top to bottom. Remember, the real car also has a rectangular red reflector in there too. A few of the cars had three lights with one being a clear backup light. BTW, I was a bit worried about the amount of light from such a small tail lamp assembly. And, since the lens is made out of glass so I wouldn't have to worry about heat melting it, I installed 50-watt halogen bulbs. I applaud your efforts to make it look original. Since there are only 41 real ones in the world hardly anybody has seen one up close. I've had my car at many shows and fooled many people. It's fun to watch them squeeze the fender lip (to see if it's glass) or get down on one knee to check out the Z suspension. You know they have doubts but they are not quite sure so the just keep looking. Great fun! Again, let me know if I can be of any more help and good luck!

Chris - I'm not sure what you mean by vertial mounted tailights. Do you mean like this http://www.cars-on-line.com/62ferrari2191.html BTW, I have real Ferrari lights and reflectors on my car and this car appears to have them as well. The little old guy in Italy that made those lights for all these years has passed away. Unfortunately there wasn't anybody in the family to take over so the price already high and going up very fast. Although my car is an Alpha 1 GTO, and may be different, the rear clip did not have the holes in it for the lights when I got it. Therefore you have some leeway on what lights you can use. So you may want to look around and find a different set of lights.

Wow so you are building my car - cool! Don't forget to check with Jeff over at Stable Autoworks http://www.zcarkits.com/ You might be able to get a deal. BTW, tell him I sent you and he will throw in the GTO dash for free. You can keep an eye on eBay for emblems because they show up quite often. Just know what the normal price is. Believe me, with Ferrari you really do pay for the name! If the small Ferrari badge that goes on the nose said "Sunbird" it would probably cost $10 bucks but Ferrari list is $140!!! Here's another place to try http://www.ferraripartsexchange.com/ Jim Simpson http://www.simpsondesign.net/ can find used ones in good shape as well. He is another great guy and used to sell the GTO kit before Stable Autoworks as "Rhino." Here is where you can get emblems and badges as well as the engine compartment labels http://www.italiancarparts.com/ Also, let me know if you need any help. You are going to love that ride - it's a real blast.

biohzrd - If it's this kit http://www.reactionresearch.com/940z.html give our buddy John Washington a call or send him an email and see if he has any additional pics.

BTW, if you are looking for a long term fix or repairs to a seriously rusted and leaking tank you might try your local Gas Tank Renu http://www.gastankrenu.com/welcome.htm dealer. They have a lifetime warranty and I used it for mine. The local dealer charged me $150 and it came out great. After they blast and boil it they basically coat it with PVC plastic (inside and out) and bake it in an oven.

Eric over at Zparts.com http://www.zparts.com/ had some info on this car. I'd check with him.

Yup - you guys are right on - the correct Tilton master cylinder size for use with both the both the Camaro and Corvette slave cylinder is 7/8" and you can order it from Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/

Had a guy in the club for that had an SBC in a VW bug. No back seat (made it mid-engine) and pulled the front wheels off the ground with little effort but not as easy as the guy with the Porsche 911 with a 383 in the back.

Oh yeah........ Rod Simpson Hybrids http://www.pacificnet.net/v8/ plus a few more make a kit to put an SBC into a Porsche (including the 914). BTW - while the 914 was VW engine based the 916 had a boxer 6 in it.