OlderThanMe

well I pulled the pistons out last night. I've got a single score mark that looks fresh on the #3 piston. Seems like piston slap but I am not sure. I'll get some pics up soon

hmm... camo valve cover... nice. Do it. I may go out and get a can of blue rustoleum and repaint the entire car this weekend. Black is going to be too hot in Florida and Red is a cop magnet...don't want either too close to me though. I was thinking blue with an almond colored stripe. I may roll the engine bay in blackwhile I am at it. I just hate stripping bondo off. I could strip the roof in 15 minutes with an orbital sander. Here is my #6 piston valves. Sure looks like a ceramic coating on that valve that has chipped off. my cylinder head:

So Austin... What color on the repaint? Just a respray of the same? Didn't you just paint the car like 5 months ago?

yeh. The video says valve knock but I had no clue what the noise was at the time but I know it is under the #4 piston somewhere. It is all going to be redone in my quest for more power. I just want to make sure that nothing in the block is damaged. I'll probably reuse my E-88 but give it a little porting, polishing etc...maybe get my cam reground to a fatter lift while I am at it. I was reading my how to rebuild and modify your nissan OHC engine and there was a mention about asymetrical cam lobes. Is there anybody that can do that on a regrind?

Wow thanks for that writeup! That answered several questions I had about the EDIS setup. I am looking at doing a similar setup but with carbies.

I am still thinking the sound is coming from below the pistons. Those little pieces of junk are gasket because I picked one up and it fell apart. I am thinking that my valves could have some sort of ceramic coating and that is what that white is on the #6 valve. I'll look closer today. The rockers look fine. I'll get a photo of the lash pad today. Some people put bigger valves in heads but I can't see putting much of a larger valve in my head. Maybe 1mm diameter larger each but there would be clearance issues after that. Maybe this is what the "other interior engine work" was that the previous owner was talking about. Of course he said the car had webers on it...lol Cam must be a fairly mild regrind if it even had one. I'll pull out the calipers and try to calculate the lift on it.

yep... I am now needing to build some insane motor for my car. Then get a stronger pressure plate and clutch disc to go with my 11lb flywheel and sell off my stage 2+ pressure plate and disc that have 700 miles on them. I think mull got me started on videos but I haven't had a decent computer toeffectively make vids. Now I have this fancy laptop and an extra monitor that I have hooked up so making videos is now no problem. my previous beast of a PC was a 650mhz Pentium 3..lol

I got bored today so I figured I would go ahead and pull my E88 off. I was not sure what I would find. Here is the video of the sound of the problem: Here is the video: Here is piston 4. looks like gasket material. You can see some slight scoring marks but I don't think it is too bad. the pistons are flat tops as you can see. look at the bronze color at the far left in the above photo. another shot of the #4 piston. Note the bronze color. I hope that is not oil coming past the rings but I think it is. also see a bit of coolant drips on the cylinder wall but that is just from the head being unbolted and then sitting a few days before pulling the head (I hope) below is the #4 cylinder on the cylinder head. It seems a bit too oily. Look right above the loosely insalled spark plug. fontunately there sems to be very little erosion from engine coolant. Hee is the only damage I could see on the cylinder head. Here is a wide shot of the entire cylinder head. #1 piston on left fyi.

just re-installed my little 3 month solidworks 04 trial on my new laptop. runs like a charm. Now if I can make a curved piece of tubing...

nah..even better.. you made youself an early 260

just pulled my cylinder head. Pics soon! Some crosshatching is still there.

That header on your 260 looks like the MSA 6-2-1 standard header

so what brakes are you going to fill those wheels with? It won't look right with the tiny stock brakes and then a big gap and then rim. There are plenty of rim choices out there... just look around enough and you will find something you will like and look good with your brakes. *Edit* My aluminium rims that were included with my car only had 3.25" backspace and were 6.5" wide. I now have 15x8" rims and 4" backsace. They definitely don't fit under stock fenders.

I have a similar tip that is not rolled on the end. I haven't severely gashed myself on it but I have nailed my shin into it several times now that I have taken my bumper off.

compare the top of the rear fender on amir's car with the top of the rear one on Austin's car. They are almost the same but Austin's looks about 1/2 in or less above the top of the door handle. Amir's seems to be just below the top of the door handle.

haha... I think I will polish up the outside of my cylinder head when it gets stripped down. Don't know what to paint the block. I am about thinking of either rebuilding this block and making a 3.1 TT and doing it DevilZ style and then when it explodes just swap everything onto a F54/p90 engine. I may go with a red/black engine bay and then do the exterior in some nice blue or something. arg..I've been reading too much wangan midnight...

haha... small towns are great

3/24/06 post date

First I'll put 120 on my orbital sander and get the texture out. Then 400 grit and finally polishing compound.... hmm... At least it will be pretty opposed to before. Some people have their polished intakes and polished valve covers... I'll have a mirror finish tranny

so are you going to get a real tranny mount made up? that looks just not look right for a high horsepower car...

Yep. ACT seems to be the way to go for you. For a turbo you would at least want the C.F. 2 or a higher stage ACT (3?) clutch.

hmm...if your electric heater fan does not work...just need some fancy plumbing... forced A/C...

I have not heard many things about Centerforce 1 or 2 clutches being bad. Just the dual friction discs going out. I was about to get the Spec flywheel and ACT pressure plate and full disc. I just went with all spec stuff in the end. 750 miles on the Spec stage 2+ and it still looks pretty good now that the motor is out. I am just using the 225mm stuff and the stage 2+ is rated good up to 265 horsepower. It is just a hair stiffer than my stock clutch but very firm and crisp engagement. It was a it pricey though and I paid full price because I needed it ASAP before a show/drive. god luck on your endeavor!

You can use welting for an old vw bug. You can get it dirt cheap since there are so many vw venders out there.

lol sparks...