Cody 82 ZXT

Sorry the pics turned out so little. I'm going to try again. Same pics only larger I hope. Hope this is right!!

Here's a couple of pics. of mine I got them from Ross C. at Modern Motorsports. Hope this helps.

Lookin' good James. Someone with a small plane needs to fly everyone on the board down for the Race! Any Takers???

Sleeper is right the car will have to be under a load to develop boost. The other thing to look for is an exhaust leak. It would have to be a rather large leak to make you not develop any boost but, it's something you might look for. I would drive the car up to about 3500 and then push the pedal to about 3/4 throttle you should start to see some action then.

I agree sounds like the seals are bad or not installed correctly. I've never heard of this vent thing. Sounds like it would become a proublem in the future.

I'll start off with an engine shot. I've got a few more but, havn't loaded them up yet? Hopfully I'll be doing some of that today. Anyway, Yes the car has been lowered. They are Motorsport Auto Springs they are advertised to lower the car by 1.5"'s and I think they do about that. Mine are 2+2 springs that came off another Z that I had. I think if I were doing it again I would go straight to the coil over set-up or maybe try the Tokico progressive rate springs. I do alot of driving and at time the car is alittle stiff. After I added the new seats the car was much more comfortable so who knows. One thing I really recommend is to replace as many bushings as you can with polyurethane. They are realitivley cheap and make for big gains. Do the sway bars and you'll see what I'm talking about. I still have a ton to replace. Heres a good website to look at. This guy spends alot of time on Zcar.com jeffp Later....

Ok, So let me get this straight he didn't make a return line from the turbo to the oil pan before he started it up? If thats the case it would seem like it would blow the seals and do what it did. If he did have everything set-up right then it's possible that the oil return line is not big enough or has the wrong angle or something like that. The return line must be very free flowing and free from any obstruction. Aslo make sure that the flow back into the pan is above the oil level in the pan. Ofcourse its possible that the seals were bad before he started. I know you sadi he had it checked but, maybe they did a bad job or something??? At idle the turbo dos not need a ton of pressure but, at full song it will need a considerable amount to make sure the shaft stays floating.

Hey Dwayne, Your right I just painted the stainless trim black. i used the chrome trim paint that can be bought at any local auto parts store. You have to sand it lightly first or it won't stick at all. There are other guys on this site that can give you better prep ideas that I can but, it's worked for me so far. The rims are 17x7.5's that were made for a Honda Accord. I used some adapters from Modern Motorsports. I've been real happy with them so far. The car really corners now. The body kit is the areo II kit sold by Motorsport auto. Easily installed and looks good right out of the box. I just got a digital camera so I hope to have some more pics soon.

Any idea on where you would find the epoxy for the studs? would you just use a nail of the right size or does it come with the studs like in a kit or something?

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I think everyone is just waiting on some track times. sounds like the project has turned out as planned.

I did this combo once and the pump died after a short while. After that i bought the pump ftrom him that he recommended. It is a Peirburg that was about 200.00. Bolts on and seems to be fine for the last 4 years. He also recommed trying one off a turbo Saab or Porshe. they can be had at the J/Y for about 20 bucks. Might be worth trying.

I love that "The Twins" James, it's time for some more pics... How do you keep from working on it night and day?

Worn gear set!! That's not what I want to hear. Your description sounds just like mine. If there is a little load on the car then it does it more than if your sitting on a flat road. Does anyone else think it could be the gear set?

How do I tell if I need to replace my U-Joints? I have a clanking noise coming from the back of the car and I'm begging to think that it's the drive shaft. Almost everytime I let out the clutch I hear a clank. Sometimes it is worse than others and I can sit in traffic and just barley engage the clutch and hear the clunk from the back of the car. You can even feel it sometimes. I replace the rear diff. mount and that helped but, maybe that was only part of the clunk, Sould I look elsewhere?

You can get the pressure switchs from this guy. I've thought adding two extra injectors also but, I think I'm going to upgrade my ignition before I do that. Dawes Devices Let us know how it turns out.

Seems like I read somewhere that it take 4 times as much HP to get to 200 mph as is does to get to 100mph. This was the main reason Shelby made the special version of the Cobra for Le Mans. He needed much greater top speed than the open design could take him.

I think that there are two main reasons for everyone going to turbos vs. superchargers. The first is that the factory made a turbo car and is very well proven and can make much more HP when boost is increased and supported by more fuel and intercooler. The second and another very important thing to condider is that there is only one S/C kit out and I'm not sure that it's even in production. I see rumors that it will produced but, they seem to be just wishful thinking. There are still more reasons than what I have listed but, I think that these are the two main reasons.

I'm going to do the same this later this week. I did my orginal H-4 set-up a couple of years ago and it is a hugh improvment over stock. What I'm doing now is adding the 130/90 watt bulbs. I bought the Painless Wiring H4 wiring kit to replace my stock wiring. My stock setup has gone crazy and isn't working very well at all. Now I think I'm going to be ready to blind every other driver on the road!!(lol) Hope I can aim them right so I don't get pulled over.

I would like to also see some pictures of the pod. I had to use the Mustang one and fit it. Not the most eye appeling thing I've ever made. What about color? I need black. E-mail-codyburden@aol.com

I'm running a Cartech model that works fine for me. It's not exactly the most elegant solution to increasing the amount of fuel to the engine but, it works. You really need an EGT gauge and A/F ratio gauge to help with tunning. My car is making in the 280 RWHP range with my current set-up. You need to make sure that your injector seals are up to the task and the injectors can lockup with the added fuel pressure pushing on them. Also you must have a high preesure high volume fuel pump if not you'll kill the factory one if it will even work enough to get the pressure up high enough. The Cartech model is adjustable unlike many other models. This really will help in tunning and changes that you make to the engine over time. Other wise you will have to change out the diaphram each time you change something.

I know this question should really be in the ignition board but, I thought I might get more turbo specific info. on this board. Which ignition box should I buy? Right now my combo is pretty basic running about 14 psi t4-t3 and all that goes with it. Anyway if I run the same plugs for more than a few months the car starts to bog and miss in the upper RPM's and boost levels. If I replace the plugs all is good and the car runs like a scaleded dog again. I thought a ignition box might help keep the plugs running longer and maybe pick up a few lost ponys along the way. I've seen the new Mallory Hy-Fire VI for about 115.00 and the other 6 series boxes for 150 or more. Any one have any info on the Mallory unit? I'm running a Mallory Promaster Coil and it seems to be good. It was better than my Crane PS1 that I had. Thanks for any info. Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving!

Wow, Thats cool. No pun intended. When finally get a house and more importantly a garage I'm going to have to build something like that.

What I did on mine was to put a new nipple on the back of the gauge that I stole off an old boost gauge. I would get creative and try to find the right brass fittings NAPA or something. That way you could use vacuum hose all the way. I really don't like that plastic tubing for some reason. Arn't these new Graemlins cool!