Cody 82 ZXT

Sounds like you have got an air leak somewhere. The system has to be perfectly sealed to work correctly.

I always have used the method that Adam suggested. It's worked very well in the past.

Doug, if you would will you post a reply about the price of the unit and any more specs. Sounds like what I need. Hopefully I'll be ungrading my medium sized HKS intercooler in the spring.

Jeff the pump was 72.99 plus tax at O'Reily Auto Parts. Just to add alittle here the I measured both of the old pumps I have here at my Apt. and the are both 40mm. One of them I know came off an automatic car and the other I'm not sure about. I didn't take the new one apart to measure it. I think that Nissan went from 35mm to 40mm. I've never heard of a 45mm. Plus I really don't see where they would get the extra 5mm in the current pump body. I guess if you wanted to have some parts made the cast body would be perfect for it. I'm sure you could get a couple more mm out of it.

Just so every one knows I went ahead and used the cast pump. Later

First off anything can be done with enough money. That said yes, you could run 10.? to 1 and get away with it if you have all the right parts to help support it. Such as very good intercooler, and engine managment system. Every little piece will have to be right for the system to work reliabley for any real period of time. It is much easier to lower the compression and make more power with the added boost you are able to run. Yes, you will sacrifice some off boost response and what would be total power given the same boost levels but, it can be done easier and with less money. I think most people try to limit compression ratio to 9 to 1 on a turbo car. Even that may be a little high for the L motors. The stock 7.4 is really to low for a performance car to have but, it was the early 80's and Nissan had to answer to warranty claims and things like that. If you are wanting to turbo a Non turbo car you can do it but, you will have to limit the amount of boost you run and make sure the tune is right. I used to drive one and didn't go over 10 psi. Eventually the car got wrecked so I bought a factory turbo car the next time.

I agree with you Yo, I was in a big hurry when I leftthe parts store and when I got to work and had a minuite to go outside and look at it I was likewhat the hell is this? It weighs a million pounds. I was kinda pissed, Not what I was expecting. It's getting real close to install time so I really don't want to be haveing wait on shipping and all. I think I'm going to call Courtesy Nissan tommarow moring and see if they have the turbo auto one in stock and that will be my deciding factor. I live within reasonable driving distance so I'll just make the trip if they can get me one. Plus, they give me 25% off on items. I may even get it cheaper. I'll let ya know.

Z speed auto does bring up something that I hadn't really considered. Any merit to the heat soak idea? James heres the info I found on the comp. Nismo pump. The high volume is just the turbo auto pump but, what about the competion pump? Here's the specs as listed in the description of the pump. FLOW RATE IS 13.7 GPH AT 4000 RPM. OVER 90 PSI COMPENSATES FOR INCREASED BEARING CLEARANCE AND/OR THE ADDITION OF AN OIL COOLER. INCLUDES OPTONAL COMPETITION INNER AND OUTER OIL PUMP SPRINGS. Is there any differnce between this pump and an auto pump with the comp. springs? This engine won't have the tightest clearences so i thought this might be a good idea if it's worth the extra dough. At the moment every penny counts!!

I really don't want to start a really long debate here. Unless it's needed but, I just bought an oil pump from a local auto parts store and when I got it home I noticed that it's made from cast iron instead of aluminum. Other than the weight difference and it's kinda ugly is there anything to be concerned with? I bought one made for the automatic turbo even though I have a manuel with oil cooler. Should I return this one and get a different one? Maybe the competion one from Nismo? Would I need the competion one. It's mainly a street car that gets beat on almost everyday but, other than that I really don't race it.

What happened to that other guy that said he was going to start making turbo headers and have them out by mid October? Anybody remember what I'm talking about?

I used to use one. And it worked pretty well with the piping I had for it. I didn't moddify the intercooler I just worked around the goofy intake neck. If you do some research you'll find a site the has a new neck that can be welded on and it really helps it flow better. I think it was Kenny Det....(mot going to attempt to spell his name) Anyway, the neck part has some major flow restrictions in it. All you do is cut the neck off and have the new one welded on. In the Z car you might even just have a simple cast tube welded to it to eliminate the neck and make it easier to fit in your car. I saw one at the the national convention that the guy had it in side ways and all polished up. It looked great. I will tell you though I picked up 4 mph in the quarter when I switched from the GN intercooler and stuff to my HKS set up. I think alot of the power came from the different piping I used with the new setup. It was much smoother and flowed better. The old setup was not welded and had to many connectors to lose pressure and come apart plus it had some crazy bends and angles to it. I have one of the GN intercoolers in the garage that I'd love to let go for a fair price.

Where did you get it?

All of the turbo's I've had cracked in the same place you are talking about. I don't I was told not to worry about it. Any thoughts from some of the more experienced turbo people?

I got my work done at J.I.S.(817/795/9933) in Arlington, on Collins. It's not a performance place but, they will do what ever you want you just have to tell them exactly what you want done. Seems like Anna and Juan are the ones to talk to. They most deal with rebuild shops. Heres a pic of what it looks like now.

Colder plugs have a tendency to foul out faster than a hotter plug. It has to do with how much heat the plug will retain or transfur into the head. Also a hotter plug can if it retains to much heat cause preignition. I've always just run the stock plug and never had a proublem with them. Ofcourse every car is different and all of them need to fine tuned to get max relieable HP out of them if they are expected to last when you start turning up the boost.

I think he ment swap out. An '80 model doesn't have a R-200 does it? Anyway sounds interisting.

I'm still using the factory dished pistons so I guess I'll go ahead and do as planned. If I kill a piston then oh well. The money is not really going to be the issue but, the time will suck if I have to pull the motor. I would just put in forged pistons now but, it's to close to Christmas to plunck that kind of green down. My other car died the last night so now I'm really ready to get this thing up and running. What about oil pump? I know I want the turbo automatic pump but, where is the best place to by it. What about one of the high volume competion pumps? Any thoughts?

What would be to much compression for a street driven turbo car? What my combo will be is basically stock block and head but, the head has been milled just a truing cut that the machinist said was very slight. I didn't get the exact amount from him. I had already bought a .6mm metal head gasket from Nismo thinking that the head would not need to be decked. I also have a stock head gasket that came with the gasket kit that I bought. For the computer it will be Shanes old JWT set-up with a HKS intercooler and t4/t3. Should I go ahead and use the thinner head gasket? i would like to have as much off boost resopnse as possible but, ofcourse don't want to limit myself some higher boost pressures.

Sorry about that didn't see you were in Japan.

I would think that on Peter's car it's to vent the hot air from the radiator. Sorta like the Daytona.

You might give ARP a call to get the socket or maybe you could find one in a Snap On truck.

If your going to remove the power steering the you will want pump the fluid out of it and it should more like it was a true manuel setup. The amin difference will be the ratios are different with the manuel and the power setup. Not that you can't do what ever you want but, I really don't see a benifit from removing the airconditioning and stuff. I mean how much weight are you going to be taking off? Why not just up the boost a hair and you'll be in the same ratio for your power to weight. You've got a nice car. Do you really want to gut it and lose some of the functionality of the car for such a little gain. It's not like you live in North Dakota or something. Just some thoughts not trying to be pissy or anything.

I think you could get the project started but, I would at least put an adjustable FPR on it so you could up the pressure a hair if the car liked it. Theres always the small adjustment you can do with the AFM but, let me cauation you to make sure you do small changes and mark your begginning point so you'll have a place of reference. You may eventually find that going to turbo injectors with less fuel pressure may be your ticket. I would change to a SDS or something like that where you could tune it to get every last HP when time and money permit. I'm sure the drivablity would vastly inprove also. Really a powerful car is great but, one that just flat drives well and is fast is even better. Keep us updated.

I know how you feel. that always seems to be what happens for me when I'm ordering something or having something made. Right now my head is at the machine shop and as of today it's only one day late but, they are closed for the weekend when I have time to work on it. Oh well. Stuff happens. Right?

They are easy to put on. All you do is bolt them on your hub just like your rims. Then you bolt your rims to the new adapters.