seattlejester

Ah, I see, have you considered fuel cell foam? I am all for a surge tank, I think it is a great way to guarantee fuel gets to the engine, just the added cost of double everything is hard to justify (AN lines cost more per line then per foot, i.e. 3 foot line = 40$, 10 ft line = 60$) for me personally. Though if I ever hit fuel starvation, I'll be jumping right on board. Curious, is there a reason you want to run E85? 400hp doesn't seem too far of a stretch for a 2jz, and at least over here you can find 92/93 octane, while e85 is pretty hard to come by. Returnless is out of my knowledge range, so can't help you there. Would you use it just in the surge tank? From what I recall, you have to use a lot more E85 compared to regular gasoline, 6AN was only rated to 450 or so on gasoline, I would think that you would need bigger lines to the fuel rail. Most surge setups I see have bigger outlets then inlets. That's my 0.02, sorry if it doesn't help much, keep us updated on how things turn out, or your decisions and how you came by them. Sure to be useful down the road.

Oh yes, I've been keeping tabs for quite a while! The problem wasn't as much the pedals (if anything the pedals could be a little closer) as much as it was getting a little bit further away from the steering wheel. With the stock steering wheel I think I was at almost a 90* bend in my elbows holding the wheel at 3 and 9 with how far the box pushed the seats forward, and I don't have long arms by any means.

Ah, gotcha. Looks really neat, keep us updated on how it works out.

Looks great, glad this hasn't been abandoned! I would be weary of the boxes for the main hoop, or at least fit the seats before all that is set in stone, you may find that the seat will be extremely limited if you use up the sloped portion, ask me how I know, lol.

That's some serious braking power! May I ask what you use it for? I thought you were more into drag racing and such, I would think a front staging brake would be more useful?

I was thinking internally, an oil return fitting would be pretty easy to put on any oil pan, kind of nice that toyota left the casting in the non-turbo pans for the oil return as well.

Yes. Set the marks Eyeball changes Jack up car Make changes Lower car Check again Rinse and repeat until happy After the first couple of adjustments, you kind of get a feel for how many turns of the tie rod does what to the wheel. Just make sure, after you are done, that you haven't moved the center of the rack too far, and that you tighten the lock nuts. Oh and you may have to play around with the steering rack boot when you rotate the tie rod. It will want to spin with the tie rod.

TonyD: Great, glad to know I didn't waste all that money on FI hose for the time being. I do have some 3/16 brake hardline and 1/4 inch fuel hardline lying around. I may just couple the hard lines with rubber from the ports for the time being and look into running full hardline once the car is more permanently configured. I just looked up the lines that I have and looks like they are Nylon 11 tubing to pushlock fittings. They are black with 1/8th npt pushlock fittings, Rated to 230F and 1500psi. The pressure part seems good, but the temps don't instill a lot of confidence. Xnke: Will definitely consider some hardline for a more permanent solution. You guys are making me want to go look at my ochem and material chem books again.

I used a big board since I have a bit of bulge in my tires and I couldn't put a straight edge to my rim. The tie rod is adjustable, it is threaded. One side is LH thread so mindful of the thread. Personally what I did was find the center of your steering rack (full lock to lock) and then park the steering wheel in between the two points, or better yet rotate/clock your steering wheel to match. Put the big board on the outside of your wheel (if you are not flush, you may have to use a shaped board as you will hit your fender, like an upside down U) and then mark the outer edge (front and back). Then do the same to the wheel on the other side. Draw a line down the center of the car from the cross member and then measure the distance perpendicular to the line to the front and outer edge of each wheel. If they are different adjust the tie rod to pull the wheel in or push the wheel out (much easier to do in the air). Lower the car again and see if it is closer. It took 4 tries to get it about to where I thought it was pretty close. I took it to the alignment shop the next week (firestone, lifetime alignment) and they didn't even bother to adjust it, said it was in the correct range.

The sc300 oil pan looks to be as far back enough as you can find, the sump is just really big, might have to trim the stock cross member a little bit. I can try measuring the length this week to see if it will fit if you would like. I'm not sure if the oil pickup, dip stick, etc would work with the aristo 2jz though.

At the bare minimum, I would keep one side of the floor in if you are using 4 points in a non stripped car (I.E. not a shell). The rockers could hold the weight with the roof and all, but if you need new floors and rails, the condition of the rocker and dogleg portion may not be quite as strong as you may think. And if the engine is still in, that's quite a lot of weight to be putting on the transmission tunnel and firewall. Dershum's method is very sound, weld in one side, then do the other, if possible spreading out the load bearing points would help alleviate the possibility of warping. There is a pretty good outline by JohnC on how to go about floor replacement in the fabrication section I believe.

WizardBlack: Yes that is true, are you saying the fuel lines won't work? I mean factory lines from a lot of standard cars used rubber right? BLOZ UP: I actually have quite a bit of those push lock fittings from my pneumatic days. I know they are rated for extreme cold and high pressure, but I never looked on the hot side of things. Maybe worth looking around and investigating. And thank you for the source, I think I will go buy a bit. From my math, 1/4 should be roughly 6mm, and 3/8 should be the 10mm?

I had a champion radiator in my 240z when I had an L28. The L24, L26, and L28 share the same outer dimensions, so I am not sure why they would say it would work for two and not the other. I think FPI (fins per inch) should also be looked at with conjunction to the number of cores. I remember reading that FPI is just as important, but it has been a while. If you choose to go the champion radiator route, make sure to get a shroud for the fan setup and seal off any areas around that air might seep through. Mine ran on the hotter side of things in traffic or during long idling.

Accusing someone of a lack of "basic speech" and then asking someone to re-read something that actually points out your lack of mastery of "basic speech" is kind of silly to be honest. The 100$ flux core harborfreight welder is a flux welder. That means it will cause slag. People complaining about slag is perfectly valid, flux wire causes slag and splatter. I will say, I didn't have a problem with birdnesting with mine either, I was using lincoln wire though. And it is really limited to what you can do with a flux 90 amp welder. Welding long beads is difficult as you have to periodically clean splatter, and slag can adhere to brand new panels which means you have to chisel/brush/grind around the area you welded each time. That's 3 passes over the same area compared to 1 pass with a mig. Plus the range of a 2 setting welder is pretty darn low. Thin metal is pretty much out of the question, unless you are truly truly truly skilled with a torch.

I fear my comment may have seemed to be directed at the redrilled axles, I was referring to the high HP S30 axles you mentioned. But if 350$ for those axles is correct count me in, in the near future!

Make those axles have the possibility of 4 lug and somewhat affordable and you have yourself an interested party. Edit: In response to...

To answer the first question, yes you can run stainless braided hose from the surge tank to the fuel rail if you can use AN fittings on both ends. Depending on who you ask you will get different responses of should you or should you not. As long as you aren't running too much pressure the lines shouldn't swell very much. The SS braid keeps it from swelling the internal rubber to an extent. Granted it is rubber and will compress against the braid so there will be a bit of swelling going on. Whether you can feel it will have to be determined by looking at fuel pressure during a run. I think the general consensus is convenience and money versus time on whether you should do it or not. SS braided lines cost quite a bit more, (30-70$ per hose, I think it cost me 200$ for 4 hoses front to back), but are much easier to route. You can get 25 ft of aluminum hardline for 30$ and the correct conversion fittings for another 10$ or less each from jegs and sit at roughly 70-100$ for front to back and still run AN. The moment one of the braids for the SS line is cut it will start fraying, also, depending on the mounting location, it can also saw through the mounting location over time if left unclamped/isolated. Hardlines will just take a bit of fettling to route and a gentle touch or a tube bender to make sure it doesn't kink, but once it is setup it will be a setup and forget kind of arrangement until you want to upgrade the size. Curious as to the surge tank when you have a sumped fuel cell. Are you worried about overheating the out of tank pump? Or trying to keep the weight down for autocross events by running low amounts of fuel? Or running bigger outlets from the surge tank? Or planning on mounting the tank backwards? Or running an ice bath/coolant around the surge tank? As long as you have a gas gauge and gas in the cell, I think having one pump feeding to the fuel rail is fine. I don't think the surge tank would hurt any, but it is quite an additional cost. Edit: Just saw the E85 part, make sure the hose material inside the braided line is compatible with E85 if you choose to go down that route.

Hey, AJA S30, welcome to the forum! Glad to see the positive review thus far. If you don't mind me asking, did the kit come with a receiver for the transmission? As in the receiving portion for the transmission brace?

Looks good! Make sure to seal the spots around the radiator for maximum flow, I can only imagine a turbo and intercooler would make the cooling a bit more difficult.

Looking forward to it, keep us posted.

My memory does not serve me well, I think I am referring to the AZC brakes. Nigel is on the money.

Those are neat, it looks like they have inverted flares, so using a crush washer would be a bad idea. They do make little bracket clamps for coilovers to attach the little bit of hardline to if you were so inclined, just a little insurance that the flexline won't rub your wheel.

Hmm, the fact it is very humid could very well be concerning. Painting over the insulation with por15 won't be doing much, it would just be protecting the exposed bits. I guess it would be sealing the floor and the insulation together to prevent any further moisture, but that won't stop any preexisting rust from eating away. As mentioned, if they are mint, then it doesn't need to be removed since there would really be no net gain, but considering it is a 40 year old car it may not be as mint as you think they are. Any pictures?

Question, are you adding this fuel pump? Or was it always on the car?

Oh yes, the dry ice approach would definitely help if it doesn't get to freezing temps in your garage. The material is designed to dampen noise and vibration as well as keep out or keep in heat. By using dry ice (available at quite a few places) or waiting for a cold day you basically remove it's ability to adhere to the surface and to dampen the poundings of the chisel. Just don't touch the stuff with your bare hands. Throw some chunks in the spots you want to work on, let it chill as it evaporates (make sure to stay in a vented area, pure co2 can displace enough oxygen to knock you out in a confined space), and hit it with an edged tool and see it break off in pieces. And just to clarify this is the large rubber like mats that is stuck to the interior not the underside of the floor pan yes? And to finally answer your question, you could paint over it if the floors are in good shape. If you are going to remove it, and this is not going to be a full on race car, you will probably have to install some kind of insulation after it is treated like dynomat or something of that nature. Your choice really.