seattlejester

If you are positive that they are mint, wait for a cold day and use a chisel and a hammer, if you are fancy an air hammer with a chisel will pop most of it off quickly.

It is possible to do with the dash in the car, but it is going to be difficult. I had to revisit the area, but already installed my dash, so I loosened the dash bolts and raised it to pull the box IIRC. I would advise just removing the dash, it will be much easier to access the bolts and much much much easier to hookup the clevis brackets and set the pedal length etc.

Yes, lots.

Was that small black wire cut before hand? Or did you remove the sheathing to take a look at the wire? Small wire to the starter is just a signal wire. It is not supposed to nor does it carry much of a load. It just tells the solenoid when to take full power from the heavier gauge white wire. The power actually flows towards the starter from the fusible links, not from it. If the small black wire was in the condition it is pictured before the metldown, it could have shorted against the power terminal and made the starter run while the engine was running or something similar causing main power wires to fail. Right now you are in the mindset of trying to get your car back and running. You should be in the mindset of finding out what caused the problem in the first place, or else it will happen again, as well as figuring out how far the damage got. So to answer your question, yes you can bypass them temporarily taking full power from the battery/alternator, but the bigger more pressing question is why did the wires burn instead of having the fusible links burn. The white wires from my recollection are the main power wire to the starter. That would definitely explain why none of the accessories work since that circuit burned the main power to the rest of the car isn't making it to the cabin. There really should be no reason for the burn since the exhaust is on the other side, the only thing I can think of is a pretty extensive short circuit, or maybe the starter getting stuck in engagement and burning out or some such situation. Once again even in that situation I feel like the fusible links should have popped. Do you have a good set of crimps and connectors and various gauge wire 10 at the minimum or higher for replacing the starter wires? If not it may not be advisable to start the repair, wait until you can find someone familiar with the repair process with the tools. I would definitely wait before starting until the voltmeter is in hand to check that that is the limit of the problem, if the amperage was high enough ti melth 8-10 gauge wire, it would not be surprising it did not carry on further down the line. Now would be a good time to read up on upgrading the fusible links to some heftier fuses instead of bits of wire and looking into the starter relay mod. There may be a good chance that he fusible links have gone to if they were doing their job. It may be worth your time to disconnect the battery and take out the starter and have that looked at. Unless the white power wires were cut before hand and grounded against the chassis or something of that nature, the starter somehow caused the overload. The carbon brushes on the motor have either died or the retracting mechanism for the gear is malfunctioning or something of that nature. Once again this is all speculation until more pictures and some voltage readings/continuity readings start coming into play. Sorry this is all jumbled, I may come back and edit this a little later if you want to wait. Things to check: Starter (carbon brushes, retraction mechanism, etc etc, be very careful these put out enough torque to turn the motor over and will behave violently, good to have to inspected at a parts store that is familiar with starters if you have never had to deal with one) Ignition relay (visually doesn't mean much, the innards are the important part, either visually checked by taking it completely apart, or using a multimeter and a power source) Fusible links (if they did their job, they should have burned out underneath the plastic shielding, now is a good time to upgrade to some high rated fuses, or a well rated circuit breaker as the fusible links may be hard to find) Main power wires (white and white with red stripe, these will have to be checked to make sure the burn didn't happen all the way down the power line, for replacement, make sure it is at least the same thickness if not thicker, the white wire especially takes a lot of load during starting)

Hmm, remember any details? Did he use a big plate on the motor? Or was it a really small mount? Or was it really articulated with a long arc? 2jz If you look on the driver side next to the oil filter there are a few bolt holes. One at 1:30, one at 2:30, one at 4:00 (further away), one at 4:30 (closer), and one at 9:00. The one at 4:30, is canted at an angle dissimilar to that of the other bolts so would be harder to use. I think it would be possible to use the bolt holes at 2:30 and 4:00, as well as the holes that are parallel to those holes a little further back down the block and make a long articulated arm. But that arm would have to be quite the arm to support the weight at that angle. Alternatively, it could be a smaller plate with the bolt holes at 2:30 and 4:00, with the arm starting between them, but that would be quite a lot of strain to put onto two bolts. Alternatively to that, you could use the holes at 2:30, 4:00, and 9:00 with a big cut out and run an arm straight down from there, but once again, you run into the problem of leverage from the arm to the bolt holes. With the big power levels that a 2jz will probably put out, I don't even know if the stock datsun rubber mounts could handle the rotation of the motor. It might actually be more economical to hardmount it to the chassis if the motor is indeed as smooth as avernier says. Either that or use a captive mount with a massive washer and reinforcement to the stock crossmember.

It would be advisable to invest the 7$ or so for a multimeter, sometimes harborfreight has coupons for free ones with purchase of something. It will be invaluable for diagnosing electrical problems AND solving them. If the ignition was bad, it would not send power through the ignition circuit which sends signals to power on your distributor and anything else ignition related like the fuel pump, dash lights, anything that needs the ignition circuit to ground to complete the circuit. If the ignition was bad I think the hazards and headlights might work, but the blinkers would not. Clicking from the ignition relay means an intermittent contact. A relay has two circuits, a signal circuit and a power circuit. When the signal circuit is complete the relay "clicks" the power circuit on. If you are hearing it clicking several times it means that it is receiving many signal pulses, either bad from the signal power or the signal ground. Usually when a relay fails, it melts in the on or off position, so it doesn't sounds like it has failed, but sourcing a replacement would not be a bad idea. There should be a voltmeter actually in the car that detect the incoming voltage to the cabin, what is it reading (it is in the cluster of three gauges above the radio)? I'm inclined to believe it has something to do with the main power or ground unless someone has been playing around with the harness in your car. This would be a simple 3 minute task with a multimeter, so please get one. *First check the battery is outputting 12.x volts. Any less then that and the battery is not healthy and needs to be charged *With the battery connected check the voltage at the starter and alternator. These two are actually connected so they should be reading the same. This is a good time to check that the bolt that holds the ground and power are securely attached. *Next you will be tracing the power wire into the cabin. Check that it has the same voltage as the battery. *If at any of these points you are not getting a voltage reading, something is either not tightened or there is a break in the circuit.

Any voltage readings to help us out? Battery Power to starter solenoid Maint power wire For a sudden stop of this nature I would say probably a dead battery, a main ground falling off (the one near the battery, not neccessarily on the battery) or a fusible link from the battery to the wiring harness going off line. Voltage readings will quickly sort through the problems. And continuity tests will quickly help chase them down.

A strut bar isn't the most chassis stiffening item you could install, but if it was made of a carbon tube it would be just as effective as an aluminum brace. Is there a reason you want carbon fiber? If weight savings is your game, most people go for the carbon fiber hatch with lexan to replace the glass and two straps to hold it down in addition to screws/rivets. From the molds I have seen, the fiberglass and carbon fiber hatches aren't designed to take the weatherstripping to hold the stock glass, you would either have to find glass to lay on the seam and seal it in, or you would have to trim the edge and find a gasket big enough to make up the difference. Hood should work as described with hood pins. If weight savings is your game on this front, you could remove the stock latch points and front hood hinge and add 4 pins to keep the hood on. Edit: I stand corrected, they do have some hatches labeled OEM use which takes the stock glass, but I think it kind of defeats the purpose of putting the heavy glass back in. Betamotorsports use to sell them, looks like advan carbon sells them now, although I have never heard of the company.

260z003.jpg 2jzmount The mount style used for the 7mgte that would be bolt in to the stock datsun cross member may not be feasible for the 2jz block. I believe the passenger side has the appropriate bolt cluster and the stock datsun mount can be uprated to a larger bolt and solid mounted, but the driver side has the oil filter and a much more difficult looking bolt cluster

Well, glad you took a look at the FAQ. Miles is correct, a lot of this is floating out there, it may be a lot to look up, but quite a few of the topics have been covered in the last few months, the master cylinder question actually pops up quite often. Essentially the 79-81 15/16th inch master cylinder with the split reservoirs are NLA. A lot of parts stores will list that they have it, but when you go to order them, they will inform you they don't have any. When the store I went to called cardone for the final word, they said they did not have any cores to rebuild them. So unless someone turned in a bunch of cores or someone decided to do a run of the 15/16 master cylinder for datsuns/nissans since the last time the question popped up, it is still very unlikely that they have any. Some people have gotten lucky, but many more have found that it is extremely difficult to find a re manufactured one. The current option is to find one used and send it in to get rebuilt, or do as miles suggests and go slightly bigger to a wilwood 1 inch which will require slight modifications listed in the forum. Yes, the rear disc brakes are not much of an upgrade. It can be easier to service, and worst comes to worst, the caliper will keep your wheel on if hub decides to let go. The general consensus is better compound shoes combined with a resurfaced aluminum drum is perfectly acceptable. You can replace the wheel cylinder and springs and make sure to set the clearance for smooth operation and you will have very decent stopping power from the rear. If autocrossing is the racing of choice, you won't see very much of a benefit from vented front brakes. With a typical autocross run running less then two minutes, with a cool down time in between each run, in a very light car, and speeds rarely exceeding 60mph, you probably won't get the fronts hot enough to take advantage of the vented rotors. If you were doing track driving or other such activities where you will be going much faster and repeatedly slowing down, then the vents will help dissipate some of the heat built up from repeated braking. You are correct that the vented setup will require a machined spacer to push the wheel out. This will mean you will be running different offsets front and back if memory serves, which can be troublesome if you are running directional tires. Downfalls of the traditional 4x4 solid rotor swap is that the secondary pistons are a slightly smaller diameter. Honestly if you are overheating the rotors to the point that you need the vented rotors, you may want to look into a serious track oriented setup with wilwoods all around.

1. I don't have one, the one on the car was leaking when I got the car so it went straight into the bin 2. The leaking coolant from the heater ate through the floor, so not having coolant running in the cabin is a boon 3. Ceramic heaters are much lighter, nowhere near a similar btu output, but the amount needed to defog the windows is quite a bit less weight 4. Less plumbing in the engine bay 5. With the new motor the head sits right back against the firewall, so there is no way to get coolant from the rear head fitting Those reasons are pretty flimsy to be honest. Truth is I really don't need it, and there are plenty more things I can address first. During the summer when this car is on the road, there really isn't any need for a heater. In the winter, cracking the windows and putting on an extra jacket is enough to get me where I am going. And I don't drive it in the rain if I can help it (wipers even with new wipers and the honda motor isn't all that great when it pours, welded diff, leaking door seals all add up to make wet driving an unpleasant experience. If I ever end up replacing my dash with a simpler folded metal style and pulling the interior wiring I may retrofit a boat heater like 280zex has on his car. For now I don't want to start another project until I finish the motor swap.

Thanks for the response. Glad to hear that fuel injection line can work in a pinch. I have a spool or two so I may give that a shot. If it turns out not to work very well I can always switch to silicone line. I want to say it looks like the manifold is tapped for 1/8 npt fittings. The manifold came with the fittings so I'm planning on using those, unless as you suggest they may be too big and the response is compromised.

Howdy folks, Just wondering what people are using for their turbo charged cars with regards to the boost reference lines. I have to plump hoses from my intake to my brake booster/fuel pressure regulator/blow off valve/ and to my ecu, and I was hoping to see what people have used or are using. I have 3 ~1/4 inch ports and 1 ~3/8 port. Went to the parts store and asked, and they pointed me towards fuel injection hoses for pressurized applications that can withstand oil or gas. When I had my car looked at in the past while I still had carbs, the mechanic replaced my brake booster hose with a special stiffer hose. Seems like really stiff rubber, but not silicone. No external markings. Is this a special hose, or did I get hosed in that transaction (sorry for that pun). Just wondering what people are using and if they have a preference and the reason for that preference would be greatly useful. Thanks folks!

A shot of the whole back cover would be the easiest way for me to identify the diff. Based off of the shift or the offset, I'm pretty sure that is an R200. The offset of the R180 is pretty minimal. I would turn the driveshaft a good 40 times and count how many times the wheel turns turns, unless you have a welded or lsd rear end. The ratio should be 3-4.3 driveshaft turns to 1 wheel rotation. A 2 to 1 sounds a bit too far off, that would mean a theoretical top speed of like 250mph with a 4 speed. I remember someone saying the theorhetical is ludicrously around 200mph for US spec 240z at redline in top gear with stock tires, so 2:1 doesnt seem right

Hey Austin, glad to see your Z is almost ready for paint! Hmm, what do you mean you re-installed the rear case wrong? Did you have the transmission apart and were inspecting the gear set? When you cleaned the transmission did you clean it bone dry? Or was it still wet (did it have a film of oil or did you brakeclean/spray some detergent to clean all the oil off)? What state is the car in? Is it literally just the driveline? Do you have the clutch master and slave installed? Did you install the starter/flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/clutch fork/release bearing, what about a shifter bushing etc? Well before we jump to any conclusions, I would add at least a quart of transmission fluid if it was left bone dry. Make sure to cap the rear of the transmission if the driveshaft isn't connected or you will have quite a mess. And the car may need to move a little bit (the output or input shaft for the transmission may need to turn a few degrees) to engage certain gears without the clutch. I know I panicked when certain gears wouldn't go in, and my friend rolled the car a little bit and voila those gears would slot in. Another point of advise would be to make sure you can get both the drain and fill plugs out before you start putting everything back in the car, nothing worse then getting to filling/changing your tranny fluid to find your drain plug is seized

Tony: I do remember a story of that nature regarding a motorcycle that was bought by a japanese person recently, and was planning on having it shipped to him. During a random scan at the port, the motorcycle was selected, and only then was it discovered that it had been stolen some 40 odd years ago, and the original owner retook possession of the motorcycle. I guess the export document scanning is a lot more thurough then state issued titles? I agree, as long as an inspection of the rust prone spots are done and the vehicle suspension is in alignment, and the panel gap restored it doesn't really matter. No one will know the damage exists from the outside or inside, and the car will track straight and true. Best wishes on your dealing, hope you get the Z! dsommer: There is a rebuilt title that is issued in some states if the car has been salvaged and repaired sufficiently. Technically not a branded title anymore, but less desirable then a clean title from a title standpoint. If your car has a clean title, when you are finished, you would just call it a restored car. I don't think the title has much to do about anything regarding the condition. As mentioned several times, there are salvaged cars that have little to no structural damage (stolen interior parts etc) and there are clean title cars that have rot in every other orifice.

Oh wow, did you perchance trailer it to and from the Packwood autocross in 2010? If so, I believe you may have been the inspiration for my purchase of the Z. I went with a friend for a later session, and he shouted at me that there was a Z about to leave, I caught just a small glimpse before it took off, but it was absolutely stunning. Keep up the great work!

For really old or really rare classic cars, titles get lost, and chassis can be declared salvaged for a variety of reasons. Some kind of title, whether clean or salvaged that confirms the cars place in history is valuable, compared to a listing indicating just what the car actually is. Take for example that a car collector bought an old Mercedes 500 k for several million dollars. It was appraised for higher, but due to the fact there was no title or real history of the vin, it lowered the price a bit. He had the car shipped to Germany for a car show, where the car was seized and taken to the original owners. Turns out the old classic Mercedes had been confiscated by the Nazi's at some point and the family had been waiting for the car to enter Germany to stake their claim on their stolen property. A title of some sort, even a salvaged title would have more or less prevented that from happening. Heck, I believe some cars are famous because of their salvaged title. I'm sure there are a few cars out there that have belonged to a famous celebrity or it was crashed at some race or event in history, so the salvaged title and date add value to the vehicle.

Oh, the dents and crackling undercoat is a concern to me. That's one of the first signs of rust or really shoddy application of undercoat. Granted up here with moisture that may be a different indication then sunbaked California where it could literally just be from the heat. I was told by a local restorer, that when he goes shopping he take a rubber mallet and if he taps an area and the underlining falls off, he hands the guy a 20 for his time and hits the road. For me it was similar, when I crawled under my car with a hammer and tapped the floors, only non rusted areas held onto the undercoat, any damaged area quickly released the undercoat in large chunks. I would definitely get it checked out, the carpet peeled back, the frames looked at through the drainage/inspection holes. If the guy refuses, then maybe make part of the payment contingent on a clean bill of health rust wise.

I thought about it for a while when picking out batteries, mostly due to laziness, but I ended up mounting my smaller battery in the stock location. I think your reasoning may be a bit flawed. The damaged area will need to be fixed by a welder, and having him weld in a little shelf or making the area flatter wouldn't make it any more expensive. In fact if you boxed that area to remove the curve I think it would be an even easier job to fix. And regarding the whole weight distribution aspect, I imagine you will be using a smaller battery? The battery is behind the front axle of the car and in front of the rear axle in the stock configuration, moving it to the tool box will still keep it behind the front axle and in front of the rear axle. Moving the battery to the trunk you move it past the rear axle and thus you exert a bit more leverage by pushing the rear down and pulling up the front. So moving it there for weight distribution won't give as big a benefit as putting as far back as possible in the trunk. Add onto that the use of a small battery which weighs 1/3 or less of the weight of a stock battery and the balance difference is fairly minute. Oh, and don't forget to extend the main battery leads, which means drilling holes in your firewall, and you probably should add some jump posts towards the front of your car incase you kill the battery. You may find it difficult to drag jumper cables all the way into the cabin and wrap around your seats. Worse case scenario, what happens if the battery dies and won't hold a charge? Will you be stranded until you can find another small battery? On my car I made it so that when my battery dies, and my spare is not holding a charge, I can just remove the mount and run a more standard battery to get where I'm going. If you plan on going through with this, having either a shelf in the trunk or the stock area for that possibility would be something to look into. I think it is a lot of work for not too much of a benefit. But if you want to do it, it would clean up the engine bay a bit, although you will have some hefty additional wires running about.

I thought of doing something similar, but one of the conversion fittings alone would add up to the price of the oem S13 lines. Surprisingly I can't navigate the website. It keeps opening the info page instead of taking me to their selection.

That doesn't look too bad at all. Not a big fan of the two tone interior, but the engine bay looks immaculate and the outside looks pretty good. Door alignment is kind of tricky. There are a few adjustments on the hinge and near the door catch, but it will only help so much. Depending on how hard it was hit in the back the entire chassis could have shifted and the doors will never really sit flush, or it could be just a few adjustments to make it fit right, or it could a couple hours of checking/rechecking/shimming etc. It kind of raises concerns if a body man can't line up the doors. With that all said, the important bits would be underneath the car, the floors/frame rails/etc etc, and around the battery tray. If those have to be repaired it can cost more than half the asking price. With the car sitting so low it would be hard to poke around down there. You still haven't answered what you plan on doing with it. With a car in that condition it seems difficult to imagine you will be hooning it around much. With a salvaged car, the same reservations you have about buying it are the same reservations another buyer is going to have if you decide to sell it down the road. At 6k, in the condition it looks like it is in and given the rot associated with these cars, I honestly don't think a salvage title is too bad. It will be difficult to get insurance to payout accordingly though, since someone somewhere has cashed a check for the value. If this is the year you want, in the condition you want, and you have the money to spend, there is no competition around, and you are not planning on trying to flip it down the road, I would have the floors and frame inspected, the alignment checked, have someone familiar with the S30 go over all the potential rust spots, and then make an offer contingent on him lining up the door panels and painting the rest of the car (if you like his work). If not, take out the price of the respray for the rear of the car and the cost of taking it to a body shop for the door alignments.

Found a local guy to weld my bungs on, talked for a while about cars and projects, always nice when you meet someone you get along with. Surprisingly he used a mig with a teflon liner, no spool gun, and he had no problems with bird nesting or anything of the sort, color me impressed. Got around to doing a few small things. Longer studs for part of the intake manifold, longer bolt for relocation bracket, the old bolt had 3 turns of engagement, ordered a 90mm length so now has at least 10 turns. Bought all the hoses for the intake manifold and the drill and tap to block off the idler hole instead of making a whole block off plate, so hopefully that side will be complete pretty soon. Yea, so I took some time to make "The List" promising, but at the same time, daunting. Install longer alternator belt Cap off power nut for alternator Check for correct clearance for alternator belt Buy brake fluid Cut slot for fuel lines in fuel cell cover Double check line clearance Install SS brake lines Check SS routing to clear wheels Install hydro ebrake Build mount for hydro ebrake Bleed brake system Tighten clutch line Bleed clutch Switch ignition signal to megasquirt Have megasquirt send signal to fuel pump/spark/and fuel injectors for power through 12v out Find out firing order for pairing wasted spark outputs Combine all megasquirt ground and find good location Use bolts and nylocks to go over factory ground locations (want to replace the tapping screws used before) Patch holes from fuel line routing Tighten engine mount bolts Install hoses for intake manifold Route to brake booster, ecu, blow off valve, and turbo Drill out and tap intake manifold for 3/8 npt bung to block out idler valve mount Clean intake manifold Install intake manifold Torque intake manifold bolts Buy silicone sealer to seal cold start injector port block off plate Check Timing belt and timing Mount chassis brace Mount throttle body Buy/find plug for TPS and wire to megasquirt Clean TPS Buy new non rusty throttle body bolts Install and torque throttle body bolts Clean intercooler pipes Install Intake Air Temp Sensor Mount intercooler pipes Mount radiator Wire up fan controller and mount Mount intercooler Connect pipes to intercooler Seal off gaps to force air through radiator and intercooler Block off heater return Seal off thermostat housing with silicone Bolt thermostat/water return to engine Install CAS Wire up CAS to ecu Grind down stud on turbo to fit missing nut Mount down pipe Install o2 sensor connected to controller Wire controller to megasquirt Tighten spark plugs Paint and mount coil pack mount Wire coilpacks to megasquirt Wire up sensors to megasquirt Wire up and plumb boost controller to turbo and to megasquirt Drain oil, and refill oil Add coolant to radiator Add oil to transmission Get shorter bolt for starter/alternator connection Install and plumb blow off valve Install throttle cable kit Install seats Install rear wheels Go over interior center panel wiring Install turn signal switches and indicators to steering wheel Delete turn signal stalk Go over wiper wiring Install nexus 7 in front of steering wheel over no longer used factory gauges Seal trunk area Go over weatherseal gaskets on the doors Seam seal windshield gasket Remove chrome surround Buy aerocatch for hood and trunk Build heater system Buy hose and oil filter for oil filter relocation kit Remove the muffler from exhaust (don't have a mid pipe, it would drag on the ground) Charge battery Attach positive battery to terminal Crank motor without signal from megasquirt for fuel pump/injectors/spark to circulate oil in motor and in turbo Load basic configurations into tuner studio Cross fingers Enable 12 volt signal from megasquirt and crank Make appointment at muffler shop to have car driven in and midpipe installed Tune and datalog Knowing me, enjoy for 1000 miles before thinking about upping turbo and injector size, hopefully not though. I would like to enjoy the car this time around. Note the BT20 battery is pretty impressive. It's been a good 3 months or so since I took my car up there and the battery still have over 75% according to my battery charger, and that includes the 40 minutes or so of running the fuel pump to drain the tank when we brought the car up.

Yup as far as I have encountered. M10x1.0 female inverted flare. You can technically use any brake kit from most japanese manufacturers as long as it is a 10mm/3/16 banjo on one end and M10x1.0 female inverted on the other, european/british cars tend to like to do a bubble flare for their hydraulic fittings. The only problem will lie with the length that each manufacturer considers stock. The 240sx length is perfect for full droop, but a little long under compression for example. If you are at a static height with coil overs running a shorter line might be preferable. Or running a longer line that is clamped at strategic points may work too. Edit: just noticed that this same topic was asked less then a week ago 4 or 5 topics down. Would be a good idea to take a gander next time .

It's a 10mm banjo on one side and a 10mm inverted flare female on the other. For ease I would use early 240sx brake hoses. If you want to use stockish parts, you can order the right and left from o'reileys for ~16$ a piece (BH38690 for left and BH38691 for rear). Make sure you look at how the hose sits during suspension compression and at full droop, what you want to avoid is the lines rubbing against each other or against the inner wheel. I did that at first and I just now ordered some Agency Powers rear 240sx 1989-1993 stainless steel braided and covered brake lines for ~50$ just for that extra little level of protection. Your alternative option is to run a banjo fitting and adapt it to m10x1.0 and run hardline down to the stock mounting location on the strut and use an m10x1 to m10x1 brake line stock replacement, available also at your autoparts store or you can buy uncovered ss versions from MSA. As long as you don't bottom out your suspension on launches the hardline on the car shouldn't be a problem. If you felt so inclined, you could move it a bit with new hardline to be away from wheel during compression.