CruxGNZ

Wow, great job! Now that looks sweet 8) !M!

My right turn signal is kind of working. It turns on sometimes when I want it to, but it doesn't blink fast at all, maybe 5 seconds between blinks when it works, but then it will shut off after 3 or 4 blinks. I figure after being told many times that it was my hazard switch that is the culprit, I would remove it and clean it. Alright, how the heck do you get that switch out of the dash? I unscrewed the retaining nut on the front, but how do you remove the knob to push it through the dash? Furthermore, how do you remove the center counsole to get at the back of the hazard switch? I can't seem to get the heater controls off the back of the center counsole. What a pain. I searched and didn't find anything about removing this stuff, so I figured it was fairly simple... yeah, right! I just didn't want to break stuff by forcing anything, so I figured I would ask. !M!

I tried to get people in the chat thingy by scheduling an event, but nobody is there. So, I figured I would try posting this here. Anyone up for it? !M!

Check this out too click here Check out some of the other stuff on the top of the page also. !M!

That's pretty sweet. I like the screen shot. Were you racing around in the rain today Just had to play with your new toy, huh? !M!

'85 and '86 200SX Turbo has the (4.11) (R200) I'm not sure if the N/A's had the R180 or not. I keep my updated differential list here for future reference. !M!

Ah! I know of a certain Buick that is a great family car and a great race car... Gets good fuel economy, GREAT power potential without loosing your daily driver qualities, cushy interior, ect.. I'm being serious here. Come on, just check them out and drive one if you haven't already. Black is oh so cool !M!

Yeah, I'm with Guy. I thought you were going to stuff another engine in the 'Goose, but now you're changing projects?! Wow. !M!

What the... it posted my reply all three times I tried, even though it said that it failed posting the reply. Pathogen, Thanks for the direct link, I'm downloading now. I will also download the latest updates for Windows Media Player. !M!

Does anybody have a link to the video? I went to the web site, but it says that I need a plugin for Windows Media Player to view the video directly from the web site, but when I try to download the plugin, it downloads Windows Media Player again . !M!

Okay, what the heck is this! I can't believe my eyes Check it out click here !M!

Tony D, Any updates? !M!

Thanks for the information guys. With my eyes opened up a bit more, I'm going to check out if I have an issue with running to low of a spring rate for my rear springs causing them to bind. When I have time, I'll pull a spring out and check the travel. If the distance between the two spring seats is 5.33" or less when the suspension is fully compressed, then I will know where my problem is. If I remember, I'll post what I find out. !M!

Pretty advanced for being made back in 1904 . Pretty sweet looking vehicle though! !M!

Doesn't that just say it all for us HybridZ guys? Come get some ' !M!

Hmm, that's very interesting Tim. Just curious how you figured out that an 8" spring would compress 5.33" before coil bind. I suppose you just need to know the diameter of the spring's coils to work the math. I thought if my rear springs were compressed to the point of coil bind, I would feel it as a hit, like a sledge hammer on the strut tower, which I don't believe has happened yet. How the heck am I going to figure out if my 8" rear springs are compressing to the point of coil bind before my bump stops are doing thier job? Would it be wise to up the spring rate to see if my bucking problem goes away? If so, how much? I can't go any higher of a spring rate than my Tokico Illumina's can handle, which I believe is 250 or 275 lb/in springs. I'm wondering if anybody else has experienced this same problem I'm having. I know there is quite a few running 8" rear springs for wheel/tire clearence for an unflared car, but what rate are they? I'm the lowest I could go in the 8", so I could keep the ride from not being "spine compressing". !M!

Forrest, I can't get that link to work. I've tried everything to get it to run, but no dice. What program runs ".xls"? !M!

John, The car is pretty low. About 1" of fender to wheel gap with 17" wheels. I don't know off hand how low the chassis is to the ground. The strut housings have been sectioned 1.5", forgot to mention that in my post above. I have checked the bump stops many times and even used a dab of white grease on the bottom of the bump stop to see if they hit the gland nut. They (all 4) do not bottom out. The roads here in Wisconsin are pretty crappy and expected a harsh ride, but did'nt expect the suspension to act as it is. Knowing that the car is low, but does not hit the bump stops, raising it up a little will have no effect on my bucking problem, correct? !M!

Fronts are 10" length and rears are 8" length. Now, lets talk about just the rear springs: If you have a 10" spring with 200 lb/in rate and a 8" spring with 200 lb/in rate, these springs should be identical from what I understand. One will just have less travel before coil bind, correct? But now you got me thinking, after the first inch of compression (how spring rates are measured), what is the second inch of compresion compared between the two springs? We will use the 10" and 8" springs for the question. !M!

Time to revive this thread. I am kind of lost trying to figure this out. My 240Z bucks and I don't know why. I have not had my car corner weighted yet, but the entire car was weighed at 2380lbs. if that helps. I have not purchased "Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" yet, so I'm posting this here to see what you guys think. Here is my suspension setup: Coilovers- 175 lb/in front 200 lb/in rear Tokico Illumina's- set at 3 in the front set at 2 in the rear Suspension Techniques sway bar's- (going by memory here) 1 1/8†front 7/8†rear The wheel/tire combo is pretty heavy. I can’t recall the exact weight. Now, when I’m driving, the front will hit a bump and absorb it very well, but when the rear hits that same bump, it launches me almost out of the seat. I’ve tried adjusting the Tokico Illumina’s, but this only makes it worse. Going less with them just makes the car handle sloppy and going more with them makes the ride almost unbearable. This is a street car that will see some track events. I would say 90% street use. Would changing the spring rate in the rear help with my bucking problem? I can only go to a higher spring rate, because I am running an 8†spring. Would it be best to get my car corner weighed before I make any changes? In that case, I would have to wait until my Buick engine is in the car, which will be very soon !M!

Oh man, I'm in tears laughing! !M!

Wishfull thinking !M!

Hey, it's OKAY, Sammy Safety there has got his rear wheel chocked. !M!

Cool! Sounds good too !M!

This link should answer your questions: How Stuff Works !M!