CruxGNZ

No way! It's a pain in the butt to work with. After a few nights futzing with the kit and the caliper, buying a caliper from the parts store looked great to me. I believe I bought the loaded caliper at Advance Auto or Parts America, or whatever the heck it's called now. The name changes every year or two from new ownership. !M!

You can have my 280ZX rear brake repair kit if you want it. It was so difficult to make it work, that I just gave up and bought a rebuilt caliper from the auto parts store for $80. !M!

Yeah, I could have said that it was trash, but someone would have said something and then I would look like the bad guy. Open differential means that it's not a limited slip. It's a one wheel wonder. The R200 will hold 700hp for quite some time if you don't abuse it. There is a few guys on here that have done the 'Vette rear end swap with much success. I'm not sure on the front brakes though. If you use the search function on the top of your screen, you will find TONS of information on all of your questions. !M!

Really? In the center? Funky. !M!

With those Honda wheel adaptors, you are lucky to find wheels that are 8" wide and no bigger diameter than 17". When I was looking for wheels for my car, I searched many, many sites trying to find a wheel that was 16X9" or 17X9" and there is none in the Honda bolt patern. You would need to go to custom wheels, which is big $$$$ or change over to a five lug setup. I have my suspension setup to run 17X9" wheel in the rear and 17X8" wheel in the front. I needed to install coilovers front and back. I had to use a 8" spring in the rear to keep the spring perch above the wheel for added clearence. This was all done to be able to stuff 17X9" wheel under unflared fenders. I wanted the body to be left looking unaltered. I went with the Honda adaptors and some cheap Honda 17X7" wheels to get my car on the road and just drive it. After my engine swap is done, I'll pony up for some custom wheels that I originally setup my suspension for. I suggest you talk to Ross C. from Modern Motorsports (the link you provided). He is VERY helpfull. Just tell him what you plan to do with your car and he will help you out. !M!

You go through the gears. This is just my experience from listening to and watching other drivers. If you're in 5th, you down shift to 4th then third, ect.. You don't skip the gears, I was told that it was a very bad habit to get into. You can rev match the gears while decelerating slowly, but you heel/toe when decelerating quickly forcing you to rev match while braking. Understand? !M!

That rear differential is bad, very bad. I suggest you pull it out and sell it to me. I'll give you $50 for it. All kidding aside, you most likely have the very rare 3.36 open differential. It is a R200 which can hold quite a bit of power. There has been guys that have taken thier Z cars into the 9's in the quarter mile with the R200. The differential isn't the weak point in the rear end. It's the u-joints in the half shafts and the stub axles that are the problem. If you change gears in your 2+2, PLEASE let me know! I will buy the differential! !M!

I like the looks of that one. My favorite has to be this one though: http://www.watercars.com/builder.aspx Also, Popular Mechanics did an article on amphibious cars: PM article !M!

Aquanet? Sounds kind of funky. I used that stuff way back when I used to make potato launchers. Now I'm going to have to check out what's in Aquanet next time I'm at the store. !M!

I actually do the exact same thing as datsunlover. The gas pedal and brake pedal are so close to one another, that you can use the left and right sides of your right foot (kind of at an angle with your toe pointing at 2 o'clock). You roll your ankle to hit the throttle while applying brake. I started out using my heel on the brake pedal and bliping the throttle with my toe, but it just didn't feel right. So, I switched. I tried using my toe for the brake and bliping the throttle with my heel. This way was easier to modulate the brake, but a little more difficult to match the rev's. I figured those two ways weren't working the best for me, so I just tried a way that felt good and well, the half/half method works for me. It sounds like you're letting off the brake pedal to blip the throttle while slowing down. During heel/toe, you do not do that. You are actually playing with all three pedals with your two feet at the same time. About "bliping the throttle", your just rev matching, like you said you can do. How much throttle to give? Depends on how fast your rpm's climb. It seriously all comes down to experience. I never look at my rpm's or mph when slowing down rapidly using heel/toe anymore. I just know what my car is doing by the sounds of it. After a while, you know when you are supposed to down shift just by the sounds and not over rev. !M!

Ah, don't you mean without? !M!

Here's some pictures of Nicks progress. Love the color of the engine bay! Nick I tried to e-mail you back, but my e-mail was bounced. I recieved this message from your e-mail service: Remote host said: 553 sorry, your envelope sender has been BLOCKED. badmailfrom. (#5.7.1) !M!

Try not to make any agreements before actually seeing the car. I have had friends give me leads on "clean" cars around here, but when I went to look at them, they are more suited for parts cars. Sometimes, your friends see things differently than you would. !M!

Nice! I like the off white color. Is there little flares on the rear? !M!

I like Plan B Jon, Might I suggest this wonderful tool for your little bee problem. Click me Right click, save as. !M!

For installing the '87-'89 clutch LSD carrier into a older differential with 10mm ring gear bolts, why can't I just get a bolt that is just as long as the ring gear bolt but with the right diameter to fit snugly into the LSD carrier ring gear bolt holes? This way you can just tap the ring gear itself for the new bolt. Can I do this? I was looking at getting some metric tubing to make sleeves out of, but at an average of $28 a meter for the stock and most came in 2 meter lengths, I figured that's a bit much to make this work. If I can just tap the ring gear to accept bigger diameter bolts to make it work, why not? Sounds to simple, so am I missing something? !M!

Fire and lots of it Seriously, if you're worried about getting stung just get the pro's to kill 'em. I hope this was when you were a kid In the voice of Ralph from the Simpsons, "It tastes all buzzy and stingy" !M!

Wow! Looks nice Guy 8) Why is your DS header flange cut up? !M!

Just about everything you need to know right here LC2 swap in early Z car !M!

Who listens to the comedian Brian Reagan? When he says, "So, when's the baby due?" ..."What baby?" !M!

Here's a couple links from HowStuffWorks to get you going . Enduracoatings Modernplastics And lastly, Teflon home page !M!

Ooooh, as of 11:20PM Central time, Tim is only down by 1 post... !M!

Wow, one would think the rubber would give before the control arm. Were you trying to press out the sleeve? I know Energy Suspension bushings require you to remove all the original bushing shells except the two from the mustache bar, but does the prothane kit require this as well? If so, your safe bet would be to do like Tim said, and cut the shell instead of trying to press them out. I found it easy to make two cuts in the shell with a hack saw about 1/4" from each other and then pry out the shell with a standard screwdriver. Piece of cake !M!

Looks like a neat idea. Is that piece below the tail panel going to be straight down or have a slight radius to it, curving towards the gas tank? !M!