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jc052685

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Everything posted by jc052685

  1. that is really good for an old beater. Mine is 100psi across the board (yeah, little worn out). Still got me into the 11's though. Maybe valve stem seals or the turbo may be fried. Is the oil only on some of the plugs or was it all of them. You may get lucky and just need some valve stem seals. If you pull the intake hose off the turbo, with your thumb and index finger wiggle the copressor blade. How does the shaft play feel? More than like a tinny shake and it could be shot. If you pull the J-Pipe off the throttle body is there alot of oil everywhere? some is ok, you should know if there is too much. Or take some pics. Any wideband readings yet? Really only would be intrested in the nummbers @ WOT. get someone to ride with you and do a 3rd gear pull. See if they are good enough to remember the numbers at each 1000rpm mark. Do multiple passes and write them down if needed. What also works well as a poormans datalog is to place the wideband display near the tach and video your runs:mrgreen:. Your doing good so far...Keep it up!!!
  2. ok, I have figured out that the wideband o2 is also being read as the fuel pressure. So it gets this rich lean/ low high fuel pressure wave form going on. How do I get Megasquirt to ignore fuel pressure or just turn it off completely?
  3. the car just started to ??afr walk?? last night while tunning. I niticed the duty cycle is doing the same. But I am not seeing the cause of it. This is my first time using the datalog so I am not sure but I thought the RPM signal was rather noisy. Maybe not. There is only so much the ECU uses to control fuel delivery so I am sort of at a loss. Thanks Jeff http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/jc052685/screeenshotAFRsearching.jpg
  4. mechanical and check out wikipedia. some good info on the jatco tranny there.
  5. I would do it yourself, takes 5 minutes and is super easy. I am sure if you cant find some one around you willing to lend you a compression gauge then I am sure you can buy or rent one from you local auto parts store. FYI - do the dry test before the wet test. Seems it would be common sense buy you never know. If the plugs are oily again then yes, something is possibly not good in that motor of your. But I guess thats what happens when some one just turns the boost up on a car that is not designed for it. I would do the compression test first thing at this point. no sense in spending money to fix little problems with a motor that has a big problem.
  6. I would not suspect the rings on 4 and 5. I would suspect the spark plugs are not tight in the head. any readings on that wideband yet? I sencond the opinion to remove the boost controller all together for now. You need to run a dry then a wet compression test on all 6cyl to get a resonable idea of the condition of the motor.
  7. ok, that sounds fair enough...... I was just not looking to do the intake until I did the head at the same time. That way both could be paired together. I guess I will be looking into the Lonewolf manifold I have been drooling over for years, man the look good. Just hope they are worth the money, though I am sure they are!
  8. how come several I have seen on here have done better than 300whp on a factory manifold? Someone else here in town put down right at 360hp/360tq with factory manifold and some mistery cam that he could not remember what or where it came from. I did so much searching last night after Braap's inital statment of the lack of intake manifold flow. That is when I saw several making over the 300hp mark on the stock mani. I dont doubt that it is restrictive I am just curious what my problem is??!?! I did notice today I was a bit lean at peak TQ (12.1:1) and I knew I was very rich up top (10:1). I know there is hp to be had up top and I plan on getting the tune alot closer in the up comming weeks. I just ddont see myself making the 300hp with a tune, but i dont know, maybe it will?
  9. actually he justfound a flood car in perfect shape in the same color. 98% of the damage was to replacible metals so it was pretty straight forward. And at $1500 for the flood car (still running twin turbo) I think he made out pretty good!
  10. bringing sexy back........... this was my buddies N/A to TT convertion that was mauled!!! Dogs were after rats that were infesting the lot at the time.
  11. yes, I have a web site bookmarked with all the stock cam grinds and all the NA profiles had a greater amount of overlap. I know the 260z cam is suposed to be the "hot" cam. I have loads of L-6 pars laying around so I may tinker.
  12. Hello, a few on here a familiar with my build but for those that are not here you go. Stock L28et (lots of miles!) p90 head n42 intake 240sxtb 2.5" IC pipe huge front mount 440cc injectors msnsII open exhaust 3" custom DP turbonetics 62-1 stage-5 (http://www.turboneticsinc.com/products/index.php?products_id=901&category_id=89) let me know what other info would be helpfull. Here is a rough drawing of the dyno I am trying to move the peak torque up. I would like my power to be made in the 3500-6500 maybe 7500 rpm range. I do not want to sacrifice any torque. I plan on calling schnieder cams this week also. I just think the people here would have a better idea what I need or at least could help me with what I should be able to ask the sales/tech person. THANKS, JEFF
  13. you cant plumb it before the afm on this car. Only when the AFM is being boosted through can you do that. It is just goung to get a rich condition under shiftes. It will live. Yes, you definatly should do the intercooler, downpipe, wideband and exhaust before you start blasting the motor with all that heat from higher boost. Oh, and props on the PLX:mrgreen: Very nice car also, to bad the motor does not match. But hopefully it will soon!!
  14. Again, you can do anything you want. I would, BEFORE I do anything else, get a wideband sensor on the car. Then start turning up the boost if you want to. Please pay very close attention for detonation as you will be blowing tons of heat with no intercooler. If your AFRs are good then yes, I would say SLIGHTLY higher boost is ok.
  15. I will say this is very wise on your part. Hopefully there will more good things to come this car of yours. Post up anything you know about the car's setup for the rest to maybe be of some help also. Maybe post up some pics of the turbo. Tell us about the vacume routing from the wastegate actuator. You need to find out what injectors you have also. Is the exhaust stock also I wonder? Does the engine harness look to be in good shape or are there broken connectors and exposed wires? It is best to get all of the systems of your car in tip-top shap before trying to make it more powerful. I dont know how familiar you are with automobiles or turbo & fuel injection systems. To learn some of the basics without having to sift through many of the threads on here that are of no use, try Wikipedia.org. You will gain a general understanding of what makes you car function and what is needed to get what you want out of it. Just go on there aand start searcching all of those "key words" you have heard ie. blow off valve, intercooler, turbo, fuel injection. Good Luck!!! Keep us posted on your project. I am curious to see what you find out from the wideband.
  16. as long as the afr is good then i dont care. The joys of having a crappy junkyard motor and several sitting to the side:mrgreen:
  17. yeah, the car should have some 1.7 60' in it also. I am only at 17psi, I am going to get out there in Jan in a cool day for somm 22psi runs. It has 11's in it with the same set up I am sure.
  18. This will be Dec - 5 - 2008 I will be heaading back out to Houston raceway park to get some last runns in for the year! SO FAR 1-Jc052685 2-SpoolyD 3-Bagel 4-Lt280z???
  19. well I did "hang in there" 12.2 @ 115 was the result
  20. 74 early 260z 215-60-14 BFG Drags @ 22psi motor Parts car pull, has aprox 200K miles. (been through some headgaskets though) Arp head studs n42 intake 240sx TB Stock exhaust mani. custom 3" DP Huge front mount Stock p90 stock cam megasquirt horrable tune 17psi 62-1 BB turbo 440 injectors jsk fuel rail slipping centerforce DF clutch stock 4-spd tranny I think that is it
  21. first run r/t - .645 60' - 2.032 1/8 - 8.462 @ 87.23 1/4 - 12.916 @ 111.05 run 2 r/t - .435 60' - 1.904 1/8 - 8.184 @ 88.35 1/4 - 12.565 @ 113.13 run 3 r/t - .788 60' - 1.886 1/8 - 7.986 @ 91.29 1/4 - 12.246 @ 115.83
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